I got lucky today! Depending on how you look at it.

[63rexC10]

So, I tried to start my truck this morning and the engine wouldn't turn... Then I popped the hood, and what do I see? Fuel just sitting in the corners of my intake manifold, next to my valve covers. My first thought is WTF! So, I pull the spark plugs and fuel just starts pouring out. Apparently something is wrong with my carburetor. I'm lucky I didn't end up throwing a rod because my cylinders were full of gas. I'm pretty sure that's what would have happened if the fuel would have ignited. Anyways, should I just by a new carb? Suggestions? I'm currently running a 350 w/ an Edelbrock 1406 and Holley Contender intake manifold. Should I have my carb rebuilt or should I just buy a new one? If I buy a new one, what are your suggestions?

[nomrlz]

i have never had luck with rebuilt carbs. whether me, my step dad, or a carb specialist has done it. they just neve work for me. now my friends on the other hand have em rebuilt and they work fine

[63rexC10]

Originally Posted by nomrlz

i have never had luck with rebuilt carbs. whether me, my step dad, or a carb specialist has done it. they just neve work for me. now my friends on the other hand have em rebuilt and they work fine

Yeah, I hear you on rebuild problems, that's why I'm leaning towards buying a new one. However, I'm not sure as to what kind of carb I should upgrade. I believe the current one I have is 600cfm. Should I go bigger or maybe just change manufacturers? Is there a better option for a 600cfm with my set-up? Carburetors are definitley not my strong point.

[nomrlz]

i like the edelbrock carbs for daily drivers. most i've installed never even needed adjustment. 600cfm should be plenty big unless you got a very healthy 350

[63rexC10]

Originally Posted by nomrlz

i like the edelbrock carbs for daily drivers. most i've installed never even needed adjustment. 600cfm should be plenty big unless you got a very healthy 350

Thanks for the info. I guess I'll just run down to Kragen for a direct replacement.
After I switch out the carburetor, change my oil and filter (since the're full of fuel) I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks again.

Besides changing my oil and filter, are there any other precautions I should take before firing her up?

[nomrlz]

Originally Posted by 63rexC10

Besides changing my oil and filter, are there any other precautions I should take before firing her up?

you could pull the plugs and crank it once but i doubt you really need to

[NCD1966]

I always ran holleys. But I bought a Edelbrock 600 for my old truck. Its a mostly stock 305 V8. The edelbrock did about the same thing while I was driving. just started dumping fuel and killed the engine.

Luckly it was still under warranty from the parts store. (I worked there at the time) I got my money back and bought a holley 600.
Never had a problem untill my truck sat for about 3 years and the gaskets dried out. Put a rebuild kit and on the road again.

[markeb01]

If your fuel pressure is too high, theoretically it could jamb the float needle - but is not very likely. It more probable there is crud stuck in the needle/seat blocking the valve from closing. I've run Carter and Edelbrock AFB's since the 70's and find them the easiest carb to rebuild and tune. Before I bought anything new I'd be determined to find what caused the problem. It would be a shame to spend several hundred dollars and find out the solution was a simple fix.

[Rich 5150 69]

If you had that much fuel in the cylinders you better drain oil...!

[TheDark1]

Check the floats to make sure they still float. A pin hole in one will keep the inlet valve open if it fills with fuel.

[bama63]

you say gas was pouring out of the cylinders, unless the fuel gravity fed from the tank or you left the electric fuel pump on, i cant see how that much fuel could enter the cylinders. the carb only holds about 8 ounces and with the engine shut off that is all that could possibly leak into the cylinders. if fuel pressure is too high it will only cause a flooding condition while running but not shut off. when you drain the oil pay attention to how much gas is in the oil pan i have has several fuel pump diaphrams go bad and fill the oil pan while driving to the point of coming out the valve covers! and if you have the tank behind the seat it could possibly gravity feed through a ruptured diaphram and fill your engine completely full. hope this helps.

[Captainfab]

I agree with markeb01. I would first check out the carb you have and see if you can find what caused the problem. I'm not that familar with the Edelbrocks, but it doesn't take much to pull the top off and have a look see. I would also agree with it likely being a piece of crap in the needle and seat or a bad float. If you have compressed air, with a couple cans of carb spray and a rebuild kit, you can rebuild this carb yourself. I would certainly give that a try before I fork out $$ for a new carb.

[63rexC10]

Originally Posted by bama63

you say gas was pouring out of the cylinders, unless the fuel gravity fed from the tank or you left the electric fuel pump on, i cant see how that much fuel could enter the cylinders. the carb only holds about 8 ounces and with the engine shut off that is all that could possibly leak into the cylinders. if fuel pressure is too high it will only cause a flooding condition while running but not shut off. when you drain the oil pay attention to how much gas is in the oil pan i have has several fuel pump diaphrams go bad and fill the oil pan while driving to the point of coming out the valve covers! and if you have the tank behind the seat it could possibly gravity feed through a ruptured diaphram and fill your engine completely full. hope this helps.

So I took the carb apart and after doing a lot of research on other forums, I added a fuel pressure regulator, as edelbrock carbs cannot handle more than 7 psi. My carburetor looked fine so I reassembled and installed it. I drain the oil and it reeked of fuel, but did not look too diluted. However, it was really hard to tell. I was just about to install the new oil filter, but they forgot to put it in my bag. So, I guess we won't find out until tomorrow night if anything is different. My tank is in the bed against the cab. I wonder if it is my mechanical fuel pump. Well, if my diaphragm is bad then my engine should be flooded tomorrow morning, right? It's late... I'll post updates tomorrow.

Thanks for the help guys!!!

[bama63]

yes if the fuel pump diaphragm is bad it will refill the oil pan again but as you said the oil reeked of fuel but really could not tell. if the diaphragm were leaking you would be able to tell as there would be more fuel than oil in the pan so your problem is most likely not the fuel pump.

[Captainfab]

Just a little FYI....I've read that Edelbrocks don't like more than 5.5psi of fuel. I've never owned one, just what I've read in the 'Engine and Drivetrain' section here.

[63rexC10]

Changed oil and filter, new cap and rotor, new plugs and wires, AND a new fuel pressure regulator... Truck is running! I let it idle for about thirty minutes to see if it would fuel dump and kill the motor, but it didn't, so I took it for a spin and it runs, but is smokes out of the tailpipe when I let off the throttle. It's dark out and my LED flashlight gives the smoke a blue tint I'll see what it looks like in the AM and I'll give y'all an update after work.

THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP!!!! YOU GUYS RULE!!!

[Clyde65]

After you ran it last night, I would change the oil and filter again, just for good measure.

I had a fuel pump on my old 350 that was putting out like 15psi, it was supposed to be a stock pump but was actually a high output one that was miss marked from the manufacturer, I blew out 3 rebuilt Quadrajets before I found the real issue, glad they were all under warranty.

[63rexC10]

Darn it, my carb stated dumping fuel again today. Not much, but definitley noticeable. So, I pulled the carb off and opened her up to find a good amount of what looks to be rust particles in my bowls. It's really fine dust and I'm not sure how I missed it before. I'm guessing it's coming from the tank, as I can't see it coming from anywhere else. Any suggestions? BTW, I rebuilt my carb since I had it off

[1Bad62Pro/Street]

Originally Posted by 63rexC10

So, I tried to start my truck this morning and the engine wouldn't turn... Then I popped the hood, and what do I see? Fuel just sitting in the corners of my intake manifold, next to my valve covers. My first thought is WTF! So, I pull the spark plugs and fuel just starts pouring out. Apparently something is wrong with my carburetor. I'm lucky I didn't end up throwing a rod because my cylinders were full of gas. I'm pretty sure that's what would have happened if the fuel would have ignited. Anyways, should I just by a new carb? Suggestions? I'm currently running a 350 w/ an Edelbrock 1406 and Holley Contender intake manifold. Should I have my carb rebuilt or should I just buy a new one? If I buy a new one, what are your suggestions?

Hey Bud,
This may help! My dad rebuilt mine a month ago.
I have the Edelbrock Performer Carb and the Performer EPS intake manifold.
The intake is still shining.... the carb is not so shiney.

CARBURETOR FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
CARBURETOR FAQs
Q: How can I lean down my carburetor to get better mileage?

A: First off, make sure the correct size, (cfm) carburetor is installed on the engine and be sure the idle mixture screws are properly adjusted (see page 6 of the Owner's Manual). You can always make your carburetor leaner, but this will not always improve gas mileage. Since every engine is different, there is no way of knowing how much of an affect leaning down the carburetor will have on your engine. You can refer to your carburetor owners manual (download here) and the calibration chart inside to lean down the carb. Start off light, but keep an eye on the plugs to make sure you aren’t taking it too lean. You will see on the chart that you can lean the carburetor down in different percentages in different modes, cruise and power.


Q: What metering rods and jets do I need to run with my combination?

A: There is no “pre-determined” combination of rods and jets for any given motor, accept for altitude corrective applications, which is 4% for every 3,000 ft of elevation. Every engine is going to require a different fuel curve. The best thing to do is run the carburetor on the engine right out of the box to build a baseline, then check the spark plugs and see how they look. You need to have a light brown, or tan color on the plugs. If they are too white or too black, you need to make adjustments, refer to the tuning chart in your carburetor owner’s manual (download here). Plug reading gives you an accurate idea of what is actually taking place inside the combustion chamber. Please note, today’s re-formulated fuels can leave a lack of accurate colorization. To order replacement parts via mail, (download here). To purchase replacement parts online, (click here).


Q: I am getting fuel in my oil, what is this caused by?

A: Fuel in the oil can be caused by several conditions including a ruptured fuel pump diaphragm, incorrect fuel line hook-up, and carburetor flooding. If the problem is carb flooding, check the following: Fuel pressure should not exceed 6.5 psi. Float level should be verified to be at 7/16. Refer to supplied owners manual (download here). Verify needle & seats are free of any debris, and have a smooth range of operation and travel. Verify floats are free of any fluid by shaking the float, or submersing it in a safe, non flammable fluid.


Q: My carburetor whistles, what causes this, how can I fix it?

A: This may be caused by a rip or tear in a base gasket, air horn gasket, or adapter gasket or some foreign material stuck in an air passage of the carburetor. Inspect the gaskets to make sure you have no vacuum leaks of any kind. Check to make sure carburetor is seated correctly, and is fastened with the correct hardware. You can perform a quick check to find external vacuum leaks (such as a leaky carb base gasket) by spraying starting fluid on suspected areas while the engine is idling. If the engine speed changes for a second or two after you spray an area of the carb, you’re found the leak.


Q: I can’t get my idle below 1,000 RPM with your Edelbrock carburetor, what should I do?

A: Check for correct choke operation and adjustment. Make sure that the fast idle cam is not causing this. Verify the throttle arm rests on the idle speed screw. It is important to verify throttle linkage, and or throttle blades are not binding and have a free range of operation. Throttle return spring should be correctly located and adjusted. In most cases, the return spring should be positioned on the top of the throttle arm forward. This should have been confirmed when the Wide Open Throttle test was performed during the initial installation of the carburetor. Make sure all of the vacuum ports on the carburetor are being utilized or blocked off.


Q: I purchased your 1406 carburetor and it is too lean, what should I do?

A: The 1406 is calibrated lean for fuel economy. In some applications, re-calibration of the carburetor may be necessary for optimum performance. See page 22-23 in the supplied owner’s manual (download here). Step # 23 on the calibration reference chart is a good starting point for enriching the air/ fuel mixture.


Q: How can I get a carburetor owner’s manual?

A: You can order a Performer Series carburetor owner’s manual by calling, faxing, (see Contact Us page) or emailing our Tech Dept at edelbrock@edelbrock.com or you can download one here.


Q: Why can’t I route my fuel line to the front of the Performer carburetor like I do on my Q-jet?

A: All of our Performer Series and AVS carburetors feature the PCV port on the front center of the carburetor; it can only be used for PCV. The fuel inlet is on the passenger side rear of the carburetor. Incorrect installation of the fuel line can cause severe engine damage.


Q: How do I hook up my electric choke (voltage)?

A: The Electric choke on our Performer Series and AVS carburetors needs to be hooked to a “keyed” (while the key is in the on position) 12-volt power source, with a good ground. Verify there is no voltage when the key is in the off position. Do not connect the positive wire to the Ignition Coil, ballast resistor or Alternator.


Q: My carburetor is flooding, what do I check?

A: Carburetor flooding can be cause by the following conditions. First, verify, with a fuel pressure gauge that the pressure does not exceed 6.5 psi. Floats should be set to the factory spec of 7/16, (see owners manual)(download here). Needles & Seats can be clogged with debris, not allowing them to close. They can be cleaned and checked when the float level is being verified. Floats can be sinking due to a leak. Verify floats are free of any fluid by shaking the float, or submersing it in a safe, non flammable fluid.


Q: Can I run my PCV line to the rear of the carburetor?

A: We do not recommend routing the PCV line to the rear of the carburetor. We recommend that the PCV line go to the front, if you have power brakes, they go to the rear.


Q: On the front of my Performer Series carburetor, which screw is air and which one is fuel?

A: Both Idle mixture screws on the front of our Performer Series and AVS carburetors control air/fuel mixture at idle. The left screw controls the left venturi and the right screw controls the right venturi. Refer to your carburetor owner’s manual (download here) to properly tune the idle mixture.


Q: Which side of the carburetor do I put my dist vacuum line to?

A: Generally the distributor vacuum line goes to the timed (pass side of carburetor) port. This is mandatory on emission controlled applications.


Q: I have a Performer Series carburetor and my engine stalls when I come to a stop or a sharp turn, what will fix this problem?

A: An incorrect float level can cause this to occur. Make sure that the float levels are set properly at 7/16” per the owner’s manual (download here). Excessive fuel pressure can also contribute to this condition.


Q: I see fuel dripping from the carburetor boosters at idle, what causes this?

A: Too much fuel pressure usually causes this and often times dirt in the float bowls can do the same. Make sure your fuel pressure does not exceed 6.0 psi, optimum pressure is 5.5 psi.

Application:
Street
Edelbrock 1406 Performer 600 CFM Four Barrel Carburetor
Edelbrock Performer Series carburetors have the ability to handle the demands of everyday driving and can still deliver the performance you want. It is unaffected by engine backfires because there are no power valves to blow out. The Edelbrock's 1406 uses metering rods to transition between circuits and these rods can be changed in seconds without removing the carburetor or draining any fuel. And once a Performer carburetor is tuned, it stays tuned. That means you get consistent performance. The lightweight two-piece aluminum body resists warping and is compatible with fuels that are blended.
* Natural finish, order Edelbrock 14064 for EnduraShine finish.
* Electric choke, square flange, non-EGR
* For stud kit, order Edelbrock 8008 or Edelbrock 8024 kit
Edelbrock 1406 600 CFM Four Barrel Carburetor
• Designed for small block or small displacement big block engines
• Match with Edelbrock Performer or Performer EPS intake manifolds
• Includes both timed and full vacuum ports
• Work well on stock or lightly modified engines
• Calibrated 2% leaner than Edelbrock 1405 carb
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_...carb_faq.shtml

YouTube- 1962 CHEVY C10 1/2 TON STEPSIDE...

PROJECT: "FULL METAL YELLOW JACKET Build Thread:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=321173

[63rexC10]

Okay, so I rebuilt my carburetor and adjusted my idle and mixture with a vacuum gauge, and my truck is running smooth. HOWEVER, I have blue smoke coming out of my exhaust now, way more than I used to. The passenger side smokes a little, but the driver side smokes twice as much as the passenger side. Also, my valves are ticking now. I'm gonna do a compression test to find out if it's my rings and I'm gonna pop my valve covers and have a look see. I'm hoping that it's not my rings. I checked my new spark plugs and they are all black, which makes me wonder how all my rings could go bad at the same time. Anyways, oil is getting into each of my cylinders somehow. I'm sure that my carb isn't sucking oil through the PCV because I checked that first. Anyone have any ideas?

[63rexC10]

I was finally able to do my compression test and here are the results.

Cylinder
1- 155 psi
2- 160 psi
3- 150 psi
4- 150 psi
5- 160 psi
6- 160 psi
7- 150 psi
8- 150 psi

The furthest values are within 6.5% of each other. I guess it's not my rings, each turn of the starter raised my compression reading considerably, so I'm not sure that it's a valve problem. However, I am certain the problem is in my top end, could be valve seals or valve guides. But, wouldn't seals and guides affect my compression? Any ideas?