Rear main seal in 65 283

[stilkikin]

Just wondering how hard is it to change it on these engines. I've never messed with a SBC before. My seal is leaking pretty badly. I just got it running again today and I noticed after the test drive I have oil leaking rapidly from the bellhousing area. I've got to pull the tranny anyways to put the T5 in so I'm not to dissapointed, just wondering how much of a PITA it will be. I've read theres different types of seals too, anyone know what comes on this year motor?

[markeb01]

Earlier engines had the "rope" type seal. Yours has the neoprene or rubber type.

Here are some posts that should help you understand what’s involved. Also, when removing the upper half of the seal from the block, use either a brass punch or heavy copper wire, or something else that won’t scratch the channel. Also some recommend a very thin application of silicone sealer at the joint, others recommend Permatex, while some suggest no sealer at all. Too much sealer can interfere with proper torque, leading to engine bearing damage.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...rear+main+seal

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...rear+main+seal

And post #9 on the following thread:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...rear+main+seal

[jocko]

stilkikin,
having done this before - i.e. change JUST the seal w/o pullin the motor, it's a pretty friggin painful job if I recall - since that first time, I've used a catch pan until major rebuild time... BUT, there's a tool out there that will make it a little bit easier if you do it for just the seal (i.e. engine still in the truck and crank stays in) called a "sneaky pete".

I used one and I think it's the only way I ever got the darn thing out. If you're gonna yank the whole motor and remove the crank anyway - then disregard this post.

Here's some links to two of them -
Amazon.com: KD Tools (KDT492) Oil Seal...http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/lis27000.html

Good luck. If you do it, I don't want to see a picture of the seal, I want to see a picture of your face when you're done!

OH YEAH - and I would like to echo markeb01's comment on extra sealer - I'm a firm believer in a blob of pure silicon at the corners to seal it up. I did it without it once, and it leaked like crazy. Now that will piss one right off.

[apachedaddy]

All good stuff, but make sure you ask for an offset rear main seal when you go to get a new one. It puts the lip of the seal on a fresh part of the crank and less likely to leak. I found this one out the hard way.. Good luck and just take your time its not so bad...

[fryer1979]

It always takes me less time to pull the engine, drop the pan and crank than it does to replace it still in the car. But that's me and my experiences. The links Mark posted should help out a lot, and it certainly can be done with the motor still in. I've heard that "sneaky pete" tool is awesome and well worth the cash, but I've never used one.

Here is a link to a "upper rear main seal remover/installer" tool from summit. Looks like it could be helpful to you.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WMR-W84019/

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by jocko

stilkikin,
having done this before - i.e. change JUST the seal w/o pullin the motor, it's a pretty friggin painful job if I recall - since that first time, I've used a catch pan until major rebuild time... BUT, there's a tool out there that will make it a little bit easier if you do it for just the seal (i.e. engine still in the truck and crank stays in) called a "sneaky pete".

I used one and I think it's the only way I ever got the darn thing out. If you're gonna yank the whole motor and remove the crank anyway - then disregard this post.

Here's some links to two of them -
Amazon.com: KD Tools (KDT492) Oil Seal Remover/Installer: Home Improvement
http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/lis27000.html

Good luck. If you do it, I don't want to see a picture of the seal, I want to see a picture of your face when you're done!

OH YEAH - and I would like to echo markeb01's comment on extra sealer - I'm a firm believer in a blob of pure silicon at the corners to seal it up. I did it without it once, and it leaked like crazy. Now that will piss one right off.

Thank you
.
Is there a style or brand rear seal that's better than another?

[Bugeyev8]

just run it for a while, sometimes after sitting it takes a while to get the rope seal lubed and swelled up, the sneeky pete tool works great, I have done about 6 this way and it always works fine, just be sure to pack as much in as you can before trimming it, and make sure no threads get between the main cap and block, my old buddy that wasa GM tech in the 60s said never trim the rope at all, but I was never able to pack it all in no matter what he said, or could have been thing were a little more accurate in the mfg process back then

[AcampoDave]

When did Chevy start using the neoprane seal anyway?

[GRX]

Originally Posted by acampodave

when did chevy start using the neoprane seal anyway?

1959