epoxy primers, ect...

[twisted gear tim]

i'm havin' a bit of a brain fart on an epoxy primer or something along those lines and hope someone can offer me some rolaids for the brain here. i ran across a product to coat my frame and underbody with, much like an epoxy primer, if i recall... it was available in a 5 gallon bucket for around $180.00 and advertised something like rhino lining or gator something.... one of those types of things... anyone run into this and recall what it was??? also, anyone used this stuff?

[Captainfab]

I don't know of any epoxy primer for that low of a price. The epoxy primer I use is about $275-$300 for the primer, catylist and reducer which yields about 2 1/2 sprayable gallons.

The names you mention sound more like either spray on bedliners or sound/heat insulators.

There are several coatings you can use on your frame, but like most things, you get what you pay for. How good of a coating do you want? What type of prep work do you plan on doing? What is your budget?

[twisted gear tim]

that may very well be the case, that i was recalling something such as a sound deadener.... come to think of it, i was looking into that recently. considering what i'm doing with the truck, cost is an object, but not an obstacle that can't be overcome. i'll need to look into this further, i do appreciate the feedback. as i said, i was having a bit of a brain fart... glad that sorta thing dont happen too often to cause me harm... lol... thanks, again!

[Captainfab]

Some guys swear by John Deere tractor paint. It is supposed to be good and durable, and it's inexpensive. It might be worth checking into if you have a dealer close by. There are many options, but typically an industrial coating is going to be a less expensive coating and should be fairly durable. Of course if a coating is affordable, you can put on an extra coat or two. That will help it stay nicer longer and prevent rust.

[Nor Cal 71]

I would stick with one kind of paint and not mix brands during the build...

[twisted gear tim]

thanks for the advise, guys.... with my plans of turning it into a show truck (long ways to go....) i'm not really looking for the industrial stuff, but i'd use it on a normal driver anytime... i do recall hearing a bit over the yrs about not mixing brands of paint, ect... personally, i've always been into the engines, so i'm on a fast learning curve with the body and paint stuff... i know this much, i sure wont be doing the painting! lol....

[Heater63]

I think you may be thinking of Lizard Skin. One for thermal insulation and one for sound deadening. $150 a bucket at JEGS or Summit. In and under the cab maybe, but not for the frame.

see: www.lizardskin.com

the best way to do your frame is have it sandblasted, then epoxy primer (fills the roughness of the blasting), then spray a "chassis black" single stage urethane. If you want a show truck, then prep and prep and prep, sand the primer, and consider a color other than black.
I use and recommend Sikkens products, but $$$. Like CaptainFab said, you get what you pay for.

[twisted gear tim]

thanks, heater... and that name (lizzard skin) sounds familiar. i'm betting that's what i was recalling. i sure appreciate the advise on how to address the frame too.

[markeb01]

If your eventual intention is to turn it into a show truck with a catalyzed finish, be very careful about any paint products you may use before moving into the show phase. Any lacquer, unhardened enamel, or different/multiple branded products will generally all have to come back off first. This is especially important on the body work. The chassis may or may not be as much an issue depending on the level of detail desired. Stripping everything off can be difficult to embrace if you have years of improvements and it already looks “nice”. Unfortunately poor substrate can be attacked and dissolved by high end catalyzed paint taking all the new expensive paint with it.

This is just something to consider while you’re planning and setting a budget. Even if the really good stuff isn’t affordable now, at least use the brand and types of primers suitable for your preferred ultimate finish, then you won’t have so much work to do over.

[NCD1966]

I use PPG Pitt-Guard Direct-to-Rust Epoxy its about 80-90 bucks and it makes 2 gallons. This stuff works great. I have used it on a camaro of mine and my dad has used it on a couple of other projects. I just bought some for my 66 to use on the suspension and frame. And will be mixing it to spray the firewall. It will come in two parts, Part A and Part B. you can brush it on or spray it. if you spray it you might want to add just a little thinner to it.

http://www.rsci.com/pitt-guard-direc...ting-5402.html

Main thing is not to contaminate the two parts. get some extra containers and brushes to mix it in. (i use bean cans and harbor frieght brushes) just throw them away after use
Check with your local paint store, they can add color to it if you dont want just black

[BigBlocksRule]

John Deere Blitz Black is made by Valspar, it's a great and durable paint.
I like the idea of carrying around a spray can to fix scratches, etc.

[bama63]

try this.. http://www.tractorsupply.com/agricul...1-gal--3449025 i have painted and restored a dozen or so tractors using this paint as well as several race car chassis and have yet to see any problems with chalking or fading after many years of harsh use,steam cleaning,and years of direct sunlight exposure.hope this helps,and costs much less than the JD dealer.

[Heater63]

I'm not pushing Lizard skin, I have yet to use any, but the are using it on TV show right now. Motorheadgarage on Fox SW. You can see it on
Www.motorheadgarageTV.com
Posted via Mobile Device

[noremac]

the epoxy primer i used on my truck was 113 dollars shipped to my door. thats the primer and catalyst... it makes 2 sprayable gallons. brand is eastwood.

[brawley]

can you leave the frame in epoxy primer and not top coat it?

[Heater63]

not really, most should be covered with a final coat within days. Like any primer, they are made to bond a bare surface to a finishing layer. They are not durable and tolerant of exposure.

[kingfish73]

There is also a product call "Gator Back" that alot of guys are using to freshen up the faded plastics as well as an undercoat

[twisted gear tim]

ok, i got a pretty good idea about handling the frame, now... but, another dilema i have is the coil springs. what kind of coating can hold up for the movement??? remember, i'm looking to build this to be a show truck, so appearance means a LOT. my guess is that chrome plating will crack and peel off.... but there has GOTTA be someting better than bare metal.