Throw out bearing??

[irish1966]

O.K. folks. I have a question regarding the 3 spd column shift in my 64. Everything was running perfect up until today. Now when I push in the clutch pedal, it returns like it is binding. I greased every visible part on the linkages I could get to. Does this sound like the throw-out bearing to you guys. I got under her and checked everything to make sure the linkages were all good and nothing seemed out of the ordinary to me. I haven't ever dealt with these manual transmissions and I'd rather not approach this job the Wrong Way. Any words of wisdom would be great. It kinda sucks, coz it looks like today is the last day of the nice weather her in the NW, and I feel like a learner driver when I try and take off in first. It binds right as the clustch engages and bounces like a fricken rabbit. LOL.

[aerotruk63]

Any noises when you push on the clutch?

[irish1966]

Originally Posted by aerotruk63

Any noises when you push on the clutch?

Nothing too out of the ordinary. If i release the pedal real slow i hear a faint whine, which i would assoc. with a bearing noise, but I may be just over listening. lol

[irish1966]

oh, I forgot to mention.....

It doesn't happen with the truck off. Only happens with the motor running. Duh! way to leave out the important stuff. lol

[markeb01]

And do you know about the trucks history - have you owned it for a while, or just got it, has the clutch recently been replaced, or been there for years??

[irish1966]

Originally Posted by markeb01

And do you know about the trucks history - have you owned it for a while, or just got it, has the clutch recently been replaced, or been there for years??

I bought it during the summer and it had been sitting for a number of years. I was actually extremely surprised how well everything ran when I got it going. But, yes it sat garaged for a few years.

[irish1966]

I will have to change the carrier bearing soon and the u-joints, so I am prob gonna do whatever I need to with the clutch at the same time. Might be just better to change it all?? Any recommendations as to upgraded parts for it, without breaking the bank. And by bank, I mean less than $500. lol. I have the carrier and u-joints already.

[markeb01]

It sounds to me like it could be a combination of problems with the clutch assembly itself. If it was grabby before, it could be there is engine or transmission oil contaminating the disc, or the marcel in the clutch may have gone flat (the springy surface between the friction surfaces), or the pressure plate may have hot spots burned into the surface. I've only seen it once, but on vehicles that sit idle for years, it is possible the friction surface on the disc (or pieces of it) can stick so hard to the flywheel and pressure plate that it can be torn free from the core and wad up binding the clutch.

As far as upgrades, a good quality stock replacement clutch disc would be my recommendation. If you're not going to be racing or beating on it, IMHO a performance clutch is more trouble that they're worth. They tend to grab more, making regular daily shifting less enjoyable. I have a Centerforce clutch and the weight rattle drives me nuts, but there's no budget to replace it.

If you do replace the assembly, make sure to have the flywheel resurfaced, and replacing the pilot bearing in the back of the crank is cheap insurance. It's a tiny inexpensive part that can lead to big problems if it goes bad. And again IMHO, avoid the roller pilot bearings. Many shops don't carry them due to a high failure rate, which can wipe out your pilot shaft.

[Captainfab]

Usually when a TOB (throw out bearing) goes bad, you will be able to feel the uneveness and grinding in the pedal.

When you get the trans out, check the tollerances between a new TOB and the front bearing retainer where the TOB slides. If that bearing retainer is worn very much the TOB will get cocked on there and bind up. That can also lead to premature TOB failure. When you install a new TOB make sure that the bearing retainer surface is lubricated.

[irish1966]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

Usually when a TOB (throw out bearing) goes bad, you will be able to feel the uneveness and grinding in the pedal.

When you get the trans out, check the tollerances between a new TOB and the front bearing retainer where the TOB slides. If that bearing retainer is worn very much the TOB will get cocked on there and bind up. That can also lead to premature TOB failure. When you install a new TOB make sure that the bearing retainer surface is lubricated.

Thx Captain

I appreciate the headsup. I'm gonna get stuck into it this weekend.

Cheers
David

[irish1966]

Originally Posted by markeb01

It sounds to me like it could be a combination of problems with the clutch assembly itself. If it was grabby before, it could be there is engine or transmission oil contaminating the disc, or the marcel in the clutch may have gone flat (the springy surface between the friction surfaces), or the pressure plate may have hot spots burned into the surface. I've only seen it once, but on vehicles that sit idle for years, it is possible the friction surface on the disc (or pieces of it) can stick so hard to the flywheel and pressure plate that it can be torn free from the core and wad up binding the clutch.

As far as upgrades, a good quality stock replacement clutch disc would be my recommendation. If you're not going to be racing or beating on it, IMHO a performance clutch is more trouble that they're worth. They tend to grab more, making regular daily shifting less enjoyable. I have a Centerforce clutch and the weight rattle drives me nuts, but there's no budget to replace it.

If you do replace the assembly, make sure to have the flywheel resurfaced, and replacing the pilot bearing in the back of the crank is cheap insurance. It's a tiny inexpensive part that can lead to big problems if it goes bad. And again IMHO, avoid the roller pilot bearings. Many shops don't carry them due to a high failure rate, which can wipe out your pilot shaft.

Thx a million Markeb.
I am going to put her in the stable this weekend and start the surgery. I think I will do a step-by-step, so any other guys out there who want to see the process can have a look at what I found. I had better go source the parts now.

Cheers
David

[irish1966]

I've been looking up the parts for this job online. DO u guys know what size the clutch is on these 3-spd trannys? I see a range in prices. Has anyone bought one and been more than happy with it? If so which one did you buy? I am not looking for high performace. I just want a good solid daily driver.

[ol_skool_chevy]

The 1964 used a 10" clutch
NAPA has a Clutch, TB, Pilot, and Presure plate for $159.99
But I"m almost certin you could swing a cheaper price at O'Reilly Auto Parts.
Ya need a hand , Let me know....I'll hold the flash light for ya LOL