Fabbed trailing arms - need advice

[BossHogg69]

Like the title says, I'm going to attempt making a set of trailiing arms for my truck. Does anyone see a problem with doing this from 2x3 .120" rectangular tubing? I'm not running bags, just want something with less twist than the stock arms. I plan to run a 15/16" rear sway bar from an IROC-Z that will be used with the fabbed arms. Thoughts?

[Wild83C10]

Someone made some adjustable trailing arms out of rectagular tubing. Do a quick search in this section it should pop up.

[vin63]

Just in case...http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...+trailing+arms

[BossHogg69]

I saw that thread and it's very good. Nuke used 3/16" 2x3 and ballistic joints at the front of the TA. I don't want to use the swivel joints because I have no need for the articulation those joints offer. I'm building a Pro Touring truck and need the roll resistance that a solid mount offers. I also have an adjustable PorterBuilt TA crossmember, so that is what I'll use to adjust get the wheels centered in the wheelwell. I just wanted to know if .120" wall would be strong enough and still offer a little flexibility, but not as much as a stock arm. I actually have two rear sway bars, on is 7/8" and the other is 15/16", I was gonna try both and see which one worked better with the fabbed arms.

[WellBilt Kustoms]

I think using 2" X 3" .120 wall tubing will be fine. Thats what I would go with if I were building a pair.

Post up some pics when your done! Have fun!

[BossHogg69]

Believe me, I'll have all kinds of pics posted up when I get the chassis into a roller. It's been a slow process so far, but hopefully I can get motivated and fire my welder up soon!

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by BossHogg69

I saw that thread and it's very good. Nuke used 3/16" 2x3 and ballistic joints at the front of the TA. I don't want to use the swivel joints because I have no need for the articulation those joints offer. I'm building a Pro Touring truck and need the roll resistance that a solid mount offers. I also have an adjustable PorterBuilt TA crossmember, so that is what I'll use to adjust get the wheels centered in the wheelwell. I just wanted to know if .120" wall would be strong enough and still offer a little flexibility, but not as much as a stock arm. I actually have two rear sway bars, on is 7/8" and the other is 15/16", I was gonna try both and see which one worked better with the fabbed arms.

It would seem that eliminating the twist the OE 'beam' type arms have while using the same type of bushing @ the front will increase inherent binding issues. Suspension bind while pushing the limits of adhesion in a corner (what pro-touring is all about) could possibly result in an inconsistent grip which is not a good thing.

The reduction in flex from the tube construction is a good idea. But it would seem to work better w/the swivel type joint in front to allow articulation vs. bind.

Just another perspective....

[BossHogg69]

Wellbilt -those arms are WICKED!!! nice work!

As for the swivel joints, it just seems like they offer so much articulation that the trailing arm would never get a chance to work as it was designed to. I could be wrong, but he swivel joints seem to remove any 'anti-sway' properties that using a stiffer trailing arm would offer.