Fuel Going From the Carb to the Valve Covers

[gulffishin]

Alright guys, I need some help here.
I rebuilt my carb about a month ago (Edelbrock performer 600cfm)and my truck ran good for about a week. Then the carb started getting trash in it causing it to sputter and die if I didn't keep the gas down. So, I took the top off the carb and noticed the gasket between the top and bottom of the carb was torn in the center where the rod for the air cleaner goes. I figured the trash was probably coming from the pieces of the torn gasket, so I sprayed everything good with carb cleaner and blew carb cleaner through the jets and put it back together.

I started it and it cranked right up, but then died after about 15 seconds.It not restart and I smelt gas so I assumed it was flooded. I left it alone for a few days and tried again today without the air cleaner on. It did the same thing-started then died and flooded. When I looked under the hood I saw gas all over the intake, and drivers side valve cover-opposite the fuel line side.

What could be going on? Think it's the torn gasket or something else?
I don't really want to buy another $50 carb kit just for the gasket if I dont have to.

thanks for your help

[turbostar]

Gulf,the "normal" fuel level on that carb is below the gasket line,so if the fuel is running out with the truck sitting still,then you have another problem. I would say that either the float is not correctly set or the float is not controlling the level. Do you have a fuel fiter on your truck? If not there could be trash that got in the needle and seat that keeps the float from shutting off the fuel when full.I would do two things: first check to see if the float is adjusted properly(instructions should be in that rebuild kit that you used a month ago. Second take out the needle and seat and blow it out to clean off any junk that might be in there.

[gulffishin]

Thanks for the response

I do have a fuel filter, but it could be clogged. I did not think about the float level. I had a hard time getting the floats set when I rebuilt it and I didnt have the right size drill bit so I used a tape measure....I bet that's the problem. I'll check it out some time this week and let you know.

Now my 'greenhornedness" is showing....I just googled needle/seats and I didn't even change out the needle/seats when I rebuilt the carb . I saw them in the kit, but couldn't figure out where they went, so I just left them in the box; I still have them.

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by turbostar

Gulf,the "normal" fuel level on that carb is below the gasket line,so if the fuel is running out with the truck sitting still,then you have another problem. I would say that either the float is not correctly set or the float is not controlling the level. Do you have a fuel fiter on your truck? If not there could be trash that got in the needle and seat that keeps the float from shutting off the fuel when full.I would do two things: first check to see if the float is adjusted properly(instructions should be in that rebuild kit that you used a month ago. Second take out the needle and seat and blow it out to clean off any junk that might be in there.

[gulffishin]

Ok, here's an update: I took the top back off the carb yesterday and took the floats off. Sure enough one of the rubber tips was broke off the drivers side needle valve and both strainers were clogged up. So I got the "extra parts"(unused needle valves and strainers) out of my rebuild kit, fixed it, readjusted the floats, and now it runs 500X better!

Now I have a new problem.

I have a little popping sound out the tailpipe...not like gunfire backfiring, more like popcorn popping. I checked the timing and it's between 10-12* btdc and I adjusted the carb 1 1/2 turns out from all the way in.

The only thing I can think of is that one of the metering/step up springs got bent while the top of the carb was off yesterday....dropped it (the spring) on the ground and the wife stepped on it... Do you all think that has something to do with the popping?

Thanks for all your help

[neto]

The spring you are talking about is it the one that goes with the air fuel mixture? If it is you can still adjust the needle and shouldn't give you the popping sound. I wonder if with all the gas that was going to the pistons didn't foul one of your spark plugs?

[gulffishin]

One or more of the plugs could definitely be fouled. The plugs I took out of the truck a few years ago were fouled with gas. I'll check them Sunday if it's stopped raining by then.

The spring I am talking about is one of the two that go into the top of the carb vertically with the metering rods.

[ChuckW]

You may be jetted on the lean side.. I just did a carb (Carter AFB) that came out of SLC.
It's now a sea level engine. It "pops" a little like what you are suggesting. I'd check for a vacume leak or maybe a jetting issue???

[gulffishin]

So I probably need to buy a tuning kit for my carb with the different size jets, springs, rods, etc. and go from there?

[chainsaw]

Will that torn gasket at the air cleaner stud cause a vacume leak if not changed ?

[gulffishin]

I'm not sure, but it makes sense that it could...to me at least

[ChuckW]

It could, as well as the base gasket. If you've had on/off several times damage is always a possibility.... Not that you would do that.... Good luck!!
PS. The torn gasket at the AC stud would more then likely give you a fuel leak as you mentioned earlier...

[turbostar]

Gulf,here is how to check the operation of the metering rods: With the engine off,loosen the screws on the small tin covers over the metering rods.Slide the cover so that only about half of the cover is over the metering rods and tighten the screws.This will enable you to watch the metering rods as they work. With the engine off the metering rods should be pushed up against the tin plates by the springs.Also you should be able to push down on the metering rods with a screw driver to insure they are moving freely. They should return to full up when you take away the screw driver. Now start the engine and let it idle. The metering rods should be sucked all the way down by engine vacumn. Turn the engine off and the rods should move all the way back up. If all this happens,then the metering rods are acting as they should and you can put the tin plates back to the original position.

[gulffishin]

^^Thanks, I was wondering if there was a way to check the metering rods. I blew some air through the adjusting screw holes and that resolved most of the popping-it only pops a couple times right after start-up now. I can live with that.