Wanting to bag truck but not lay frame questions

[06raptor700]

Hey guys i am needing a little direction from you guys that have been there done that so to speak. I am looking for ideas on bagging my truck (1966 swb) but do not want to raise the bed floor. I see the porterbuilt stuff and really like it but not sure if its the right setup for me. Thanks in advance for guiding me in the right direction

[jimmydean]

With a standard c-notch, you won't hit the bed unless you run a 3" block. Porterbuilts stage 2 rear would be perfect. Use that for the rear, replace your front springs with bags, get some drop spindles and you'd be low, easy to build and maintain, and would ride like a dream.

[dirtjumper63]

A picture tells a thousand words, here is a pic of my rig replaced coils with bags no notch diff sits about 1/2 inch from the wood with no air. picture is a few years old but gives you an idea. hope this helps

[PGSigns]

I should have mine back on the wheels in about a week. I used 83 a arms and 2 1/2" drop spindles and bagged the truck. I did C notch the rear for room for the bump stops. Will have to see how it all goes back together.
Jimmy

[tubbedII]

Originally Posted by jimmydean

With a standard c-notch, you won't hit the bed unless you run a 3" block.

I always thought that with a typical c-notch (typical being CPP's bolt in version) and a 2" block the pumpkin actually hits the bed before the axel hits the c-notch?

On my blazer, this is definetly the case (not a truck so maybe it's different). I cut out a hole for the pumpkin to come through since it was holding up the rear about 1/2-3/4" and I'm running 2" blocks and bags in the stock location in the rear.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by tubbedII

I always thought that with a typical c-notch (typical being CPP's bolt in version) and a 2" block the pumpkin actually hits the bed before the axel hits the c-notch?

On my blazer, this is definetly the case (not a truck so maybe it's different). I cut out a hole for the pumpkin to come through since it was holding up the rear about 1/2-3/4" and I'm running 2" blocks and bags in the stock location in the rear.

Mine hit the floor (wood) before the axle bottomed in the c-notch w/bags mounted directly to the T/A & 1.5" blocks. Actuall, it didn't take long before there was no wood floor above the pumpkin from repeat impacts.

[Rogue]

I have a c notch and will bag the rear only.
nice and low but no airbag wallow.

[65Gregg]

Originally Posted by Rogue

I have a c notch and will bag the rear only.
nice and low but no airbag wallow.

Please explain "airbag wallow", I think I mus tbe getting old..

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 65Gregg

Please explain "airbag wallow", I think I mus tbe getting old..

Agreed. No such thing when done right.

[bagged74]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Agreed. No such thing when done right.

x2...he must be referring to those setups where people take the sway bar off and T the front bags together. Thats the only way i know of to make one NOT ride good on air

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by bagged74

x2...he must be referring to those setups where people take the sway bar off and T the front bags together. Thats the only way i know of to make one NOT ride good on air

Or no sway bar, T'd together, & no shocks..... Seems the 'shocks aren't neded w/air bags' theory is a common mis-conception.

[smilts60]

Your truck is perfect dirtjumper63.

[scum1]

Originally Posted by smilts60

Your truck is perfect dirtjumper63.

x2....damn thats exactly what i want mine to look like...for me the whole bag setup is new to me, so im still hestiant to start that.

[jimmydean]

Bags are pretty easy to do. There are a number of detailed write ups on this site with lots of pictures.

Sick truck dirtjumper.

[bagged74]

I thought that was only on minitrucks??? Lol
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[tino]

hi my name is tino and i am new to this but ilove it to work on my 71 burban i like to lowering but i dont know where to start and how much to lower, i dont want to use a c- nocht and i want smooth ride, i need help to start
thank you guys

[tino]

thank you

[kieth]

I bagged the rear of my 66 gmc just so I could control the rear height to my liking.

here is how the bags went in, the bags have 12" max height and I set the system up on the cheap $129.00 + 80.00 so 209.00 . No compressor on board yet , just air it up to height......If I need to lower the truck more I can take out the lower brackets .

http://kieth.smugmug.com/Trucks/66-G...28723713_zsmuL


I kept my original 6 cyclinder coils and they were already sitting low before the 350 went in, I think it will ride nice and not have cost a fortune. If it does not sit like I want in the front then I will change the front spindles out to -2-3.....Kieth

[kieth]

testing

[Clyde65]

Keith,

So how do you fill up ur bags?

by your calculations this is what I would like to do, install bags with the cups , then run lines to the rear roll pan and have valves there to fill up and read pressure, is that possible?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Clyde65

Keith,

So how do you fill up ur bags?

by your calculations this is what I would like to do, install bags with the cups , then run lines to the rear roll pan and have valves there to fill up and read pressure, is that possible?

No reason you can't do it this way. I did the manual fill for almost 2yrs before getting a small tank/comp/manual valve set-up.

[tino]

where do you get the bags i only have 2" block on the rear i dont know if i get lower coils or air bags and how ma ny inchs lower on the coils that goes to front and rear colis

[Clyde65]

Coils will be around $125.00/pr

Bags with cups and valves will be a little more, around $200.00 or so.

Check with the board vendors here, they will get you a great deal.

the thing that has held me back so far is I want to replace all the bushings and such at the same time. So getting all my $ upfront.

Scotti, would I need an adj panhard bar?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Clyde65

Coils will be around $125.00/pr

Bags with cups and valves will be a little more, around $200.00 or so.

Check with the board vendors here, they will get you a great deal.

the thing that has held me back so far is I want to replace all the bushings and such at the same time. So getting all my $ upfront.

Scotti, would I need an adj panhard bar?

3 approaches possible: 1) modify the orignal bar to be adjustable; 2) modify the original bar only to re-center; 3) use an aftermarket adjustable bar.

I feel it is worth-while to do whatever it takes to ensure the Panhard bar goes from the frame all the way across to the pass side T/A (or pass side of the rear end housing). That can be accomplished by buying a new aftermarket adj bar, or by modifying your exiting bar. If you go through the effort to make the factory bar longer, you might as well make it adj too.... It REALLY helps installation & set-up ease.

[Clyde65]

cool, thanks bro!

Hey you coming to the meet and greet in Ft Worth Saturday?