just finished my front crossmember section

[roofingbloke]

here are some pics, 1.5"

[kyle87]

wow! cleanest one i'v ever seen. awesome welds

[68chevyLQ4]

That looks really good. Nice work.

[broey]

pretty awesome man!

[Mad Rods]

Good looking welds!!! Let's see what kinda truck it's going on
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[ol_skool_chevy]

Wow........I agree Looks Great. I might be wrong, I dont know everything but that looks like alot of work for only 1 1/2 inch lower. whats the Gain? Im open to learning more..

[roofingbloke]

In my opinion its either section the crossmember or do a Z in the chassis, i think this is an easier option to gain 1.5".

This was my last choice before spending lots of money on a aftermarket crossmember, i will allways choose self build over purchased items, thatway i gain more knoledge,

[csa daddy]

combined with a z of 3.5 this will net you 5 inches of drop. also depending on which body it is a z is required, i think in order to lay a square body on its frame in order to clear lower control arms. but to lay the pinch it will need a stock floor body drop or some kind of body drop to lay any kind of body

[ol_skool_chevy]

[B]I agree with your "[i will always choose self build over purchased items, that way i gain more knowledge," comment.
To me that might be one of the smarter comments I have seen here. Buying is not building. that's why the Ol' Skool Chevy Name..I build the way we did in the Old days Nothing new.
I guess my only thinking on your cross member was "what's the gain" but if your going seriously low I guess anyplace you gain ground clearance is a plus.
Again GREAT WORLK...............

/B]

[Scot_Douglas]

Great job!

[charx2]

Wow, I wish I could weld like that!

[broey]

The 1.5 out of the cross member is still going to put the control arms and cross member on the ground. But it will help the truck sit a little more evenly when laid out. On my truck the crossmember needed a lot more work than a pancake to lay pinch.

[Scot_Douglas]

This is with 2" out of mine with 2.5" drop spindles. (and temporary motorcycle springs that let is sit another 2" lower)

28.5" tall tires.

[ol_skool_chevy]

[QUOTE=Scot_Douglas;4684271]This is with 2" out of mine with 2.5" drop spindles. (and temporary motorcycle springs that let is sit another 2" lower)

28.5" tall tires.

[/QUOTE
wheres your tie rod????????

[Scot_Douglas]

Originally Posted by ol_skool_chevy

wheres your tie rod????????

It's in there somewhere.

[csa daddy]

Originally Posted by Scot_Douglas

It's in there somewhere.

how about a little closer an more personal pic of your rack set up i like that. it looks awesome is that going to be ride height

[Scot_Douglas]

Originally Posted by csa daddy

how about a little closer an more personal pic of your rack set up i like that. it looks awesome is that going to be ride height

There should be plenty in my build thread - and right now, I'm sitting about 2" lower than my targeted ride height.

Sorry for the thread hijack, Bloke!

[smashingchuck]

I'm more interested in whats going on out back, I've seen a rack and pinion before.

[kieth]

Originally Posted by smashingchuck

I'm more interested in whats going on out back, I've seen a rack and pinion before.

I'm with you, that looks like a ?explorer independant rear suspension ???

i thought of that and wondered why no one would use it.

[Scot_Douglas]

Originally Posted by Rochlow

For instance.. Let's say I "notch" the crossmember 2-3" under the frame rails. Then, use no-limits bolt in rack and pinion.

I know the frame will need to be notched for the rack, the spindles reemed out for the tie rods and the motor mount shorten or dropped..

That's the route I was looking at. Also I was think of moving the whole crossmember forward 1" to center the wheels in the wheel wells..

Not sure if this is an option..

That's dam-near what I did, but I used rod ends (without moving crossmember forward)

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Hard to sat w/o trying. I will say to watch that oil pan. 2-3" is going to leave it hanging awful low (vs the x-member). If you raise the drivetrain, that will add the the amount of planning/work.

Porterbuilts Dropmember get's you there much easier....

While I agree Porterbuilt's dropmember would be easiest, Sectioning the crossmember DOESN'T change your crossmember-to-oilpan clearance. If you think about it, you leave the portion under the engine in the stock location and RAISE everything else around it. No change to motormounts or oilpan clearance:


Here's a good shot showing the stock motormounts in place:

Originally Posted by kieth

I'm with you, that looks like a ?explorer independant rear suspension ???

i thought of that and wondered why no one would use it.

Take a look-see in my build thread: It's a somewhat modified 1993 Ford T-bird SC IRS. They can be had for cheap and I wanted to shorten my wheelbase a bit (explained in my build thread) - was much cheaper than building a proper 4 link ( I didn't want to mess with moving the entire stock suspension forward)

[ol_skool_chevy]

I see now at that angle. No tie rod, you used rack...nice

[smashingchuck]

Nope, nothing is wrong , that's what happens when you go 1.5".
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[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by smashingchuck

Nope, nothing is wrong , that's what happens when you go 1.5".

Yep. The possible steering related issues are mentioned in most (if not all) of the notched/pancaked/sectioned x-member threads. Hard to miss....

[roofingbloke]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Yep. The possible steering related issues are mentioned in most (if not all) of the notched/pancaked/sectioned x-member threads. Hard to miss....

From the many people who had done this, most had done a 2" section experienced steering issues, thats why i went with 1.5",

Oh well, tape measure out again, my options are, move my steering up the same 1.5" or go rack and pinion,

Thanks for the replys.

[BACKYARD88]

Mine required some grinding at 1.25" so I can imagine you'll need some at 1.5".