installing large rear window

[dstarrett]

Noticed that the top edge of the window is not perfectly straight , but, tapers down from about 8 inches out from the corners. Why? Also could you attach the rubber with urethane so it would not come off during the install? Other helpful hints?

[64fleetside]

Put rubber in cab hole, work glass in, then install center spline of rubber.

[mbgmike]

Originally Posted by 64fleetside

Put rubber in cab hole, work glass in, then install center spline of rubber.

yes. the windows install pretty easy. I guess you could use some urethane to hold the rubber on before the glass goes in but i personally have never had to . the rubber usually holds itself on.

[chevyrestoguy]

Originally Posted by 64fleetside

Put rubber in cab hole, work glass in, then install center spline of rubber.

Me and a buddy spent a few hours trying to get the rear window (small) installed in my '64 this past weekend. I have done rear windows before in later trucks, but man, this thing was a pain. At first, we tried to install it with the seal untrimmed (not butted together), no dice. Then we tried to install it with the lock strip removed, but the seal wanted to roll on the edges. Then, we installed it with the lock strip inserted and fought it for an hour, but finally got it.

Dumb question: What is the best method for doing this? I have a feeling I did it the HARD way.

[jocko]

I always thought the lock strip was supposed to be installed after the window was inserted, i.e. as a last step. But then again, I've never installed one! I can only imagine it is a bit of a pain.

The two ways I've heard were:
a. install rubber on glass, then wiggle the assembly into the opening. THEN install the lock strip.
b. install the rubber into the hole (maybe with a little silicone just for the purpose of holding the rubber in place) and then insert the window (agreed, it might be hard to not roll the edges, but maybe some soapy water on the rubber might help reduce this tendency) and THEN install the lock strip.

Not sure if a) or b) is better (I'd vote for B first if I were doing it) but the common thread is to always install the lock strip last.

my 2 cents - and just to be clear - I have NOT done this little job - just passing along.

[A.T. RockDriller]

Maybe this is common knowledge.....in which case ....you already know.
But just in case... here's the easiest way Ive ever done it.

30 years of evolution on technique has me doin' the following:

* It's a bit messy sometimes, so cover or mask the dash top or seat tops just in case. Any access sealer wipes off paint with prep-sol.

* If you plan to use sealer....which I usually do....start by wiping down your new rubber with some kind of prep-sol.....even inside of the grooves.

* Apply sealer to the groove for the glass.

* Put the rubber on the glass

* Put Sealer inside of the outer groove....all the way around.

* Take a piece of soft, pliable nylon cord (3/16" or so by 10 feet) and lay it in the groove (right in the sealer) along the top and down each side leaving the ends free, trailing from the lower corners.

* From the outside, throw the loose cords inside the opening and set the bottom groove in place on the flange. Work the bottom corners of the rubber seal into place with a narrow, plastic putty knife.

* Have your assistant hold against the outside of the window while you get your butt inside and take one side of the cord and pull in and up towards the upper corner a foot or so. Just pull it towards you and it will kinda squirt into place like a zip-lock bag. Then do the other side about the same..

* Have your assistant push on the glass directly across from where you're working.....not too hard. The sealant works like a lubricant and if you go a few inches at a time (sometimes using the putty knife), working around the corners, alternating side to side towards the center of the top, just pulling that cord out as you go.......she'll just ease right into place. When you finish, go out and push it into place the rest of the way to seat it.............Just slick as a whistle.

* One more hint.....Take a couple plastic grocery bags to put the cord into as you go.....It get's messy. Wear Nytrile gloves. Clean up around the new seal with prep-sol or whatever.

[mbgmike]

Man I never had those problems. Could be the gasket you used. I only use good gaskets. I just put the rubber on the frame insert the glass and intall the locking strip. I never used a rope on the rear windows with a locking strip.
Only time I ever use a rope is on a one piece gasket. sometimes I shoot some silicon into the groove before installing the glass.

[A.T. RockDriller]

Gee Whiz, guys.........Maybe I need to go back to school.
Are the mid-'60's Chev's special...?
All I know is that regular 1 piece rubber windshields and flat glass with rubber gasket fits are hell to install dry and the above technique is the only way to go.
The idea of just puttin' the gasket in the hole and pushing the windshield into the groove afterward makes me wonder what holds it in and keeps the water out..?
I have seen and installed expansion strip type moldings and as you explained....they need no special tricks.
I never have done the windshield in my '63, so maybe I'm in for a surprise.
BTW, Mike, I noticed you're from Texas.
I'm from the Portland area......70 to 80 inches of rain a year. Around here, if you slip up one time....one flaw in your frame prep or a nick in the gasket....and by golly, It's gonna leak.....all freakin' year.
We usually use the special sauce just to be sure.
But then again.....I'm the kinda' fella that throws away the pan gasket and grabs a caulking gun full of GMS.
Leaks kinda' pi$$ me off.

[64fleetside]

If your rubber uses the locking strip(like factory on rear glass 60-66), it's the last step-a tool(KD sells one) is made to run the strip into the rubber once the window is set in place, or you can push it into the groove suing a bone or small. If its tight like most big windows a little dish soap will help. It's usually easy-the last small window I installed took me about 5 mins start to finish by myself.

[mbgmike]

Originally Posted by A.T. RockDriller

Gee Whiz, guys.........Maybe I need to go back to school.
Are the mid-'60's Chev's special...?
All I know is that regular 1 piece rubber windshields and flat glass with rubber gasket fits are hell to install dry and the above technique is the only way to go.
The idea of just puttin' the gasket in the hole and pushing the windshield into the groove afterward makes me wonder what holds it in and keeps the water out..?
I have seen and installed expansion strip type moldings and as you explained....they need no special tricks.
I never have done the windshield in my '63, so maybe I'm in for a surprise.
BTW, Mike, I noticed you're from Texas.
I'm from the Portland area......70 to 80 inches of rain a year. Around here, if you slip up one time....one flaw in your frame prep or a nick in the gasket....and by golly, It's gonna leak.....all freakin' year.
We usually use the special sauce just to be sure.
But then again.....I'm the kinda' fella that throws away the pan gasket and grabs a caulking gun full of GMS.
Leaks kinda' pi$$ me off.

not sure what 70 inches of rain looks like. Has not rained here like 4 or 5 months. I don't install them dry.I use a lube

[Scot_Douglas]

Well, slap my a55 and call me stupid.

I just spent about 3 hours with a counterpart seal and my oem rear windshield. I now have broken glass scattered all over the driveway - and I'm about ready to drive down to Missouri and shove these seals somewhere inconvenient for someone at classic parts.

I can count on one hand the amount of times I've been this angry.

[63MOUSE]

on my 63, i have had 3 windshields put in, they are a huge pain because of the wrap around glass. but i have always used A.T. rockdriller s method also, the back window, rubber and locking bead all together with something slippery in the groove, wrap a small cord inside the groove get one part started and slowly pull the rope with some one putting pressure against it and the back window is not to bad