Frame Questions

[jimig1]

Tonight I was pulling out the original rear end and found at the front leaf spring mount there is a rust hole on both sides. I think it should be repairable just looking for advice. Here is what I was thinking.

1) Take the mount off and the cross member out
2) Cutting out the rust
3) Welding in a new piece then plating it on the back side
4) Put cross member and a new mount

[mr48chev]

I would have to believe that your line of thinking is correct.

[Kim57]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

I would have to believe that your line of thinking is correct.

x2.
Kim

[jimig1]

thanks for confirming. 10 gauge steel OK to use?

[mr48chev]

I think that is the right thickness but I would measure the thickness of the frame and match it.

Years ago I bought a truck that had been used to haul fertilizer out to the fields that had a frame that was rusted in a similar fashion. It was so bad it couldn't be repaired though.

[OrrieG]

The manual link in my signature has a page that gives the original frame properties (size and gauge) for different models. That will give you a starting point. I would not remove any more than you have to.

[jimig1]

I'm planing to only remove the worse of it I'm going to try and pull it apart tonight and get a better look.

[NICK51]

Have the frame sandblasted then you can see what you have to repair makes things a lot easier

[dwcsr]

I disassemble a lot of these trucks and your rust out is in an unusual place. If its at this spot then is may well be in other areas like it. I.e. cross member connections to the frame or where the engine cross memebr connects to the frame. I agree with your repair thoughts and with Nick51 on sand blasting prior to repairs so you can see what you actually have.

It may look like an easy fix but its a hard spot to repair and get right. Just drilling out the rivets in this spot is a big PIA. There isn't much room for plating so your welds need to be top notch and you then may want to box that area on both sides of the chassis.

I myself would find a another frame and cut out the chassis number and use my nuber and be done with it. Probably the same cost in the end but a safer frame and far far less work.

[jimig1]

Originally Posted by dwcsr

I disassemble a lot of these trucks and your rust out is in an unusual place. If its at this spot then is may well be in other areas like it. I.e. cross member connections to the frame or where the engine cross memebr connects to the frame. I agree with your repair thoughts and with Nick51 on sand blasting prior to repairs so you can see what you actually have.

It may look like an easy fix but its a hard spot to repair and get right. Just drilling out the rivets in this spot is a big PIA. There isn't much room for plating so your welds need to be top notch and you then may want to box that area on both sides of the chassis.

I myself would find a another frame and cut out the chassis number and use my nuber and be done with it. Probably the same cost in the end but a safer frame and far far less work.

After finding that last night I searched the whole fame and that was the only spot like that on both sides. I'm going to get it pulled apart and see how bad it is from what I could tell last night it was about an inch wide by about 2 inches long.

[55metalmonkey]

Originally Posted by NICK51

Have the frame sandblasted then you can see what you have to repair makes things a lot easier

Ditto,

having it blasted may reviel other spots that need attention or are getting thin. definately makes it easier to weld with it being clean.
One thing I do (on sheet metal mostly) is go one guage thicker on patches, it gives you a little more play room when you grind it flush.... it's good for small areas I am unlikely to smooth with filler, but large areas I generally stay with orignal thickness.

[mr48chev]

Originally Posted by NICK51

Have the frame sandblasted then you can see what you have to repair makes things a lot easier

I also agree that having it sandblasted first would be a good move in this case.

I would take the brackets and crossmember out first though.

[jimig1]

Well I got the mounts and the cross member out in just under an hour. Angle grinder and an air hammer with a chisel and punch makes short work of it. Here are some pix of it apart it doesn't look too bad I think I can continue with my plan. I double checked it every were else and did not see any more problems.

[BlueJeep]

Looking at the pitting, I'd say something sat there in the inside of the frame and held moisture there for a very long time. Cut it out and weld it back in. I don't worry about plating, but I have a good deal of experience welding.

[dwcsr]

I think you got lucky. I would just cut out that rectangle section and put in a piece and your done. I don't think it would need plating being that small. Just don't grind down the weld on the inside. The bead will give it strength.

[jimig1]

Thanks for the help. Here is a pic of the new mount that i have for the front spring mount.

[jimig1]

Well I was able to get one side half done I got the outside welded and ground down. I need to finish the welding on the inside of the frame but off to a good start

[rockettruck]

You might even want to consider welding the new mount in place rather than just bolting it in... It would probably add some additional strength to the repaired area. I had to do a similar repair on my '49 panel frame.

Rockettruck