66 v8 swap need help!

[smallblock kid]

Alright so ive pretty much got this whole v8 swap done on my own from start to finish in the last 3 days and i am nearly finished till i go to put my exhaust manifolds on and they wont fit because of the z bar is right where the outlet is for the drivers side manifold anybody know a fix for this? ramhorns maybe? but then i gotta have my exhaust redone from manifolds back =/ which i really am not dieing to do beings i had enough exhaust to get behind the cab with my other setup

[badblu97]

Block huggers? prolly will still mean you need new exhaust, but its looking like that anyway right?

[faribran]

the rams horns should work....would think a good muffler shop could install just the portion of exhaust pipe to connect the new manifolds to the existing pipes.

[markeb01]

I'm running the ramhorn manifolds - on the driver side I used the version with the angle to the rear. It provides a lot of clearance for everything:

[smallblock kid]

im worried my plug wires i just bought arent going to work with them either the biggest thing is the closest exhaust shop is ok but hes damn high priced the best guy i know is about 45 miles away and itd be $250 for pipe all the way out the back with glasspacks from the manifolds but thats a long drive with open manifolds

[smallblock kid]

marke are you running an auto trans or manual its my clutch linkage im hung up on

[markeb01]

Originally Posted by smallblock kid

marke are you running an auto trans or manual its my clutch linkage im hung up on

I’m running a Richmond 4 speed, but I’m running hydraulic clutch linkage so clearance isn’t a problem. Previously I had a TH350 for a number of years and it fit just as well. No modifications were made to the exhaust when going from the auto to the stick shift.

I’m currently reconditioning the engine compartment. One improvement was a new hard line for the clutch. Here’s a close up for reference as to how everything fits. Perhaps this will help visualize the clearance.

[Captainfab]

You can not run the later model exhaust manifolds in these trucks with a manual trans. You have to run either the ram horn manifolds, block hugger headers, or any one of about 3 different LT headers.

If you went with LT headers, you could build a temporary exhaust system fairly easy. You could go with header mufflers if nothing else.

[fryer1979]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

You can not run the later model exhaust manifolds in these trucks with a manual trans. You have to run either the ram horn manifolds, block hugger headers, or any one of about 3 different LT headers.

If you went with LT headers, you could build a temporary exhaust system fairly easy. You could go with header mufflers if nothing else.

Hey Cap, do you know if a long tube header meant for an A-body car will clear the manual linkage? I ask because when I put my V8 in my truck, it is going to be an Oldsmobile V8. Since these engines were never used in these trucks (and I have seen Chevelle headers used on a small block in some of these swaps), my plan was to use a set of headers meant for a Cutlass or something like that.

Smallblock Kid: Sorry bud, I'm not trying to jack your thread....I've just been looking at my swap and seeing that this may be an issue that I will run into as well. I'd really like to keep my 4-speed.

[Captainfab]

I have not seen A-body headers used on a truck of this vintage, just a squarebody, and it was an auto truck. If you really want to use the A-body headers, and the only issue is the mechanical clutch linkage, you might consider converting to a hydraulic clutch. It really isn't that difficult. I have sold a couple of my '60-'62 booster bracket kits that were modified to fit the '63-'66 trucks.

Originally Posted by fryer1979

Hey Cap, do you know if a long tube header meant for an A-body car will clear the manual linkage? I ask because when I put my V8 in my truck, it is going to be an Oldsmobile V8. Since these engines were never used in these trucks (and I have seen Chevelle headers used on a small block in some of these swaps), my plan was to use a set of headers meant for a Cutlass or something like that.

Smallblock Kid: Sorry bud, I'm not trying to jack your thread....I've just been looking at my swap and seeing that this may be an issue that I will run into as well. I'd really like to keep my 4-speed.

[smallblock kid]

ive got a set of ramhorns off one of our old wheat trucks that im gonna run i dont really like block huggers and idk how hard itd be to get some lt headers or how expensive so looks like im gonna pick the cheaper route and i wont worry about leaking headers either ive got a hydraulic clutch setup but id rather not take the motor back out and im gonna use it once i got to 4x4 and the cummins in it

[Tx Firefighter]

To clarify, are your running straight dump ramshorns or rearward dump ramshorns ?

On my 63, I couldn't run the rearward dump ones (of a 72 I parted) as it hit my clutch linkage. I replaced them with straight dump ones and everything fit well from there on.

[smallblock kid]

im running the straight dump ones i didnt figure the angled ones would work it looks like ill have to cut the pipes off because the bolts are seized up

[smallblock kid]

alright so i think ive got eveything all lined out for the exhaust to work now just my spark plugs are running over the top of the manifolds so im putting some heat wrap boots over them o and i found this http://american-muffler.com/item1.asp?Cat_ID=20 kit from a shop not to far away that i was wondering what everybodies imput on it is is 2 1/4 in fine for flow? or would 2 1/2 be better and which sounds better to?

[smallblock kid]

i really doubt any long tube header would fit the linkage is just too close to the exhaust i had a buddies set of headers and tryed to test fit them they were off a pickup to start with but still id figure a cars headers would have to tuck up even closer