1950 Chevy 3100 1/2 Ton

[JTKimothy]

Hey there, so I'll start off by telling you all that I know nothing about cars. However, to give myself a little credit, I have quite a college education and I'm more than willing to learn and very determined to succeed - even if it's just to prove wrong those who doubt me! HAHA I'm a thick headed Italian girl

I've always wanted to restore an old truck. I took the plunge and bought a 1950 Chevy 3100 1/2 ton. It's in decent condition, lots of surface rust, but minimal major rust damage. The chassis is in sturdy condition, although I'm not sure I'll be using it or not. The motor doesn't run at all, it's been sitting for 25 years at least.

Brought it home on Saturday and began sanding the rust down. In just one day's work, I was able to get the driver's side door down to the bare metal. Pretty impressed with myself, I have to say. It took several coats of paint stripper and about 5 hours of sanding.

I know this is going to take a long long time, but like I said, I'm determined to do it myself. I know that parts can be sent here and there to be done professionally, but I kind of think that takes the fun out of it. I would like to do as much of this myself as possible. Gonna need your help though Send the tips my way!!!

Kim
Project Photo Album:
http://photobucket.com/Kims50Chevy

Restoration Blog
http://Kims50Chevy.blogspot.com/

[handyhands]

I feel the same way about living in another generation. My 14 year old son and I are doing the same thing. We are doing the S10 SWAP, haven't found our 49-53 GMC yet. But there is so much to do to the s10 chassis that it will keep us busy for a while. We are learning as we go, looking forward to getting a welder and more new tools. Hopefully some good bonding time with my son. We are going to try and do it all ourselves. All new bushings on front end, ball joints, brakes, lines, remove rust from chassis and paint(chassis black, suspension parts gray, brake drums and calibers red, motor chevy orange, intake and timing cover with Aluma blast, and head covers a gloss black).Headers and cherry bombs.

[BlueJeep]

My tip for removing the paint is to use Aircraft brand stripper and cover it with saran wrap for about 30 minutes. The wrap keeps the stripper from drying out and continues to work, then it peels off with a razor blade very easily. In some spots on mine, the paint came off when I peeled back the saran wrap.

Have fun with it, and do lots of reading on this site.

[JTKimothy]

Thanks BlueJeep, I took a look at your thread and it makes me wish Long Island was a little closer to Iowa so we could work together on my 1950/S10 swap

[55metalmonkey]

paint stipper for big areas but a quik strip disc (looks like a hardend plastic sponge) on a mini grinder is my tool of choice for rust and residual paint, leves the metal looking near new. just dont bear down on it and let the disc do the work and watch it around crowns and corners. if you put a lot ( and I mean alot) of pressure behind it you create too much heat which causes metal distortion.

[JTKimothy]

That's funny because I actually bought a quick strip disc over the weekend and tried it only for a second or two. I was afraid it would do more damage than good! I'll give it a second try

[55metalmonkey]

like everything, it has it's purpose but isn't for everything. still it would take a fair bit of effort to do any real damage with it. use light pressure to start with and you'll get the feel for how much weight to put behind it in no time.

[NICK51]

Kim,

I am also working on a 51, 1/2 ton, were probably close to the same age.. To strip paint I did 3things..
1. Used a chemical stripper (lowe's for like $20)
2. Wire Wheeled a lot of the paint off (it took days)
3. I then eventually decided to have it sandblasted.. I still think sandblasting is the right way to go.. it really shows you work you have to work with, plan your project accordingly from there.

Check out my photobucket: http://s1112.photobucket.com/albums/k483/nick5110/

I did all the work myself.. taught myself how to paint, primer, bodywork, weld, rebuild an engine, transmission, polished the aluminum, etc.

[JTKimothy]

Nick, very impressive work! I think I will end up having the intricate parts sandblasted. I am able to get to most of the flat panels with ease (somewhat) such as the hood, doors, etc. But for around the top of the door frame where there are cracks and crevices, I think I will have to sandblast that. I thought about getting one of those small ones with the vacuum attached to it, so that I can attempt this myself. My Dad also has access to a sandblaster at work, so I might bring a part or two there and see how it comes out. Thanks! Had a successful night with naval jelly though Soaked the front emblem in it and worked out pretty well. Will give the other parts a shot now. I called in sick today to work on my truck. This is becoming a problem LOL

[parkwood]

Originally Posted by JTKimothy

Nick, very impressive work! I think I will end up having the intricate parts sandblasted. I am able to get to most of the flat panels with ease (somewhat) such as the hood, doors, etc. But for around the top of the door frame where there are cracks and crevices, I think I will have to sandblast that. I thought about getting one of those small ones with the vacuum attached to it, so that I can attempt this myself. My Dad also has access to a sandblaster at work, so I might bring a part or two there and see how it comes out. Thanks! Had a successful night with naval jelly though Soaked the front emblem in it and worked out pretty well. Will give the other parts a shot now. I called in sick today to work on my truck. This is becoming a problem LOL

Kim, glad to see that girls love trucks too.. i've done a little work on a couple trucks and a suburban and if i can be of any help send me a PM and i'll help anyway i can.. check my thread on page 1 of the "1951 suburban 4 year project" Wayne

[mknittle]

BEWARE of sand blasting It can warp sheetmetal !!

[NICK51]

sorry meant media blast aluminum oxide

[mknittle]

Cool