Killswitch, Engage!

[NobleSix]

no, not the awesome rock group. ive been doing alot of reading around and it seems that these older trucks appear to be pretty good targets for knuckle dragging genetic defectives who some how think its ok to take things from other people who work hard and contribute to society.

so i was talking to my sisters husband and he mentioned wiring a switch to the coil. he didnt really know what all i would need to do so i figured id pick some brains.

i have the switch, it has two blades on it, its either on or its off. its rated at 10A 277vac 20A 125vac 3/4hp. will this switch work?

then i was just wondering how i would go about wiring this switch in?

would it be better to wire it into the coil or into the ignition switch?

eventually i would also like to get a battery disconnect switch put somewhere, mabye in the cab itself. but for now, i figured the smaller kill switch wouldnt be as noticeable to a thief whos trying to hurry and not get caught, thereby buying me some time.

i figure if nothing else, i could always remove the coil to cap wire, but then again a smart thief would notice its missing and replace it, with say, the #1 plug wire and drive off with a dead cylinder.

heres to keeping them safe in the driveway!

[DeadheadNM]

I drilled out a clutch hole delete plate and affixed a keyed switch that was inline with the distributor. The switch is hidden behind the carpet and easy to access.

Whatever you do make sure the hood is secured with a chain looped around the grill support or fab an in-cab release.

[michael bustamante]

I was thinking about hooking up a magic key to the ignition myself
Posted via Mobile Device

[BMERDOC]

Being a BMW mechanic I wouldn't want to run that current through a switch. I'd wanna run it through a relay operated by the switch. You could simply run an inline fuse and just pull that fuse (30 amp?) when you don't want it to run. Just make sure you keep a spare close by so you don't get stuck. Theft is a moment of opprotunity, no thief is gonna want to spend the time to diagnose a no-start. If it were me I'd buy a switch, go to your house, break in, unplug the ignition connector, plug in my own switch and take your truck. If it didn't run I'm not gonna try to figure it out, I'm gonna leave. Higher end thiefs just tow them.
Pulling the coil wire is a good idea, if it sit for longer periods, pulling the rotor is even better.

[slikside]

Originally Posted by BMERDOC

Being a BMW mechanic I wouldn't want to run that current through a switch. I'd wanna run it through a relay operated by the switch. You could simply run an inline fuse and just pull that fuse (30 amp?) when you don't want it to run. Just make sure you keep a spare close by so you don't get stuck. Theft is a moment of opprotunity, no thief is gonna want to spend the time to diagnose a no-start. If it were me I'd buy a switch, go to your house, break in, unplug the ignition connector, plug in my own switch and take your truck. If it didn't run I'm not gonna try to figure it out, I'm gonna leave. Higher end thiefs just tow them.
Pulling the coil wire is a good idea, if it sit for longer periods, pulling the rotor is even better.

This is what I thought I might do when I get around to upgrading to HEI distributor.

The switch to relay sounds like a nicer option, but potentially, more easily defeated (quick look under dash...there's a switch....flip it....try starting again.

Even if a theif finds a missing fuse (unlikely) even he is SOL unless he has one with him.

Hidden secondary keys under carpet sound like the best choice to me.

All of the above are for short term. Like Bmer says, pulling rotor a good choice for longer term.

[domeier]

I'd like to get some sort of gps tracker. Heard something about the "cheap cell phone trick." What is that?

[Longhorn Man]

I plan on installing a ford type solenoid hidden in the frame rail inturupting the main battery power. To activate it, I have considered a small switch hooked to the brake pedal. Pedal down, solenoid activated, turn the key like normal. If you don't hit the brake, then the starter will just click like a dead battery.
The beauty of this is no one will notice it. Your friends or even teenage kids (like no teen has ever taken off in dad's car for a joy ride) will never see you tap the brake pedal as you turn the key, but when they try to start it, it'll have a dead battery as far as they can tell. Even if they try to jump it, it'll still be dead. (won't stop a push start if you have a manual trans)

[stich626]

Originally Posted by Longhorn Man

I plan on installing a ford type solenoid hidden in the frame rail inturupting the main battery power. To activate it, I have considered a small switch hooked to the brake pedal. Pedal down, solenoid activated, turn the key like normal. If you don't hit the brake, then the starter will just click like a dead battery.
The beauty of this is no one will notice it. Your friends or even teenage kids (like no teen has ever taken off in dad's car for a joy ride) will never see you tap the brake pedal as you turn the key, but when they try to start it, it'll have a dead battery as far as they can tell. Even if they try to jump it, it'll still be dead. (won't stop a push start if you have a manual trans)

nice idea, sadly it won't help.. today it's almost 2nd nature to hold the brake to start/shift so.. a lowlife might hit the brake out of doing it daily..
I'm gonna use the extra remote turn on of my radio. you know the one that powers up the amps or power antenna.. and as seen as I'll have the radios face.. no power to the starter.. yes easy to bypass , but there will also be an ign kill.. a ford tank switch works good too.. front tank on, it start, rear on , dead

[MARKDTN]

Originally Posted by Longhorn Man

I plan on installing a ford type solenoid hidden in the frame rail inturupting the main battery power. To activate it, I have considered a small switch hooked to the brake pedal. Pedal down, solenoid activated, turn the key like normal. If you don't hit the brake, then the starter will just click like a dead battery.
The beauty of this is no one will notice it. Your friends or even teenage kids (like no teen has ever taken off in dad's car for a joy ride) will never see you tap the brake pedal as you turn the key, but when they try to start it, it'll have a dead battery as far as they can tell. Even if they try to jump it, it'll still be dead. (won't stop a push start if you have a manual trans)

Be sure to use a continuous duty solenoid, not a starter one.

http://terminalsupplyco.com/Solenoids.aspx

The starter ones can burn out in a short time if you try to use them all the time. The others are rated to be more like a really big relay.

[NobleSix]

i also read about the cellphone gps tracking method! i think i still have the thread open somewhere, ill try to link it.


http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=464964


basically you get a cheap prepaid cellphone that has gps capabilities and java, and download an app, then you can track the cellphone through its own gps through the app's website for free. i am defianatly considering this, because i could wire the phone charger into the trucks 12v system and never have to worry about the phone going dead.

ton of good ideas here. thanks folks!

[ls1nova71]

Originally Posted by NobleSix

i also read about the cellphone gps tracking method! i think i still have the thread open somewhere, ill try to link it.


http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=464964


basically you get a cheap prepaid cellphone that has gps capabilities and java, and download an app, then you can track the cellphone through its own gps through the app's website for free. i am defianatly considering this, because i could wire the phone charger into the trucks 12v system and never have to worry about the phone going dead.

ton of good ideas here. thanks folks!

Wouldn't the time eventually run out on the prepaid phone by having the GPS on constantly? Or is it free? How does that work?
Posted via Mobile Device

[indianbullet]

When I had a tow service my wrecker had a horn button mounted next to the dimmer switch. The kind you would mount to your steering column. One of those could easily be mounted under carpet or floor mat above or to the right of the dimmer.
Just my .02

[chev3600]

There are many places to wire a toggle switch in but if money isnt an issue, there are some cool high-techy options.....http://www.autoloc.com/catalog/Ultra...e-Start-System

I like the idea of a completely hidden switch maybe inside the cluster surround?

[Pop's C-10]

They use to sell a fuel shut off that used a key years ago..that would be a better move cause a coil..cause if they hot wired it & get no spark..then it not hard to know what's up..with no fuel..she'll jus spin..`

[screamin_c10]

Without getting into too much detail on an open web forum..... if they want my ride(s) they had better bring a tow truck.... multiple kills for multiple systems, all remote coded.

[profe56]

I hope the car stealers don't read this thread jejejejejejje

[profe56]

I also have a killer switch that only works if I push a button and turn the switch to start at the same time at my truck.
Also at others cars my electric mechanic friend did install an alarm that works only if the doors are open and doesnt work with remote control but it had a hidden switch that I turned of before I open the door.

[71gmcburb]

what i did i use a ford starter sylonoid (sp) and wired it to my headlight dimmer switch and also use marine termanals for the batt to allow ease of disconnect for winter storage. had a lowlife brake into my 66 and tryed to start it and they did alot of damage to the switch but the van stayed home

[Clyde65]

I dont think anyone can really prevent theft of their vehicle, but if you make it more difficult the lowlifes will move on to something easier.

[Bert W]

A lot of great ideas here. I have been a cop for 25 years and have never arrested a car thief with a BS or Masters degree. What ever you decide to do, make sure it is well hidden or camoflaged. It doesn't have to be elctronically complicated. The thief is not going to, or not for very long, try and decode the issue of it not starting. When I get mine back together, I'll use some of these ideas. If Memphis Raines lives in your area the GPS is your best bet. Great thread!

[no moa]

I'm going to buy a rabid put bull named killa, that will sleep
In the truck at night. Let's see those puckers faces when they wing that door open! Lol


I am paranoid about this, I've had scrap guys sneaking around the house, I live in the back 40, so most of my stuff is garaged or way out back. But those buggers are persistent as I have a crapload of junk cars. I put in 2 bullet cameras, alarm in the garage, and I block the entrance of my garage and storage area with either the wrecker or big betha (John Deere 410 4c4 backhoe) if the get by those to, let them have it, I don't want to see the loader that dragged that backhoe around. Lol
Posted via Mobile Device

[NobleSix]

cleanfreak: thats a very awesome idea! ill hafta go out and take a look and see if i can fit a padlock onto mine.

markdtn: sorry for the noobish question, but, the lil black square relays are the ones you are referring to that will burn out after a short time of use? i ask because the ones in your link take alot of amperage to operate. im worried that if i were to make a mistake in wiring id have a bigger fire to deal with =D

[a_barth]

I think using the ford solenoid would work fine as Longhorn Man described because it would only be activated for a short period of time while the brake pedal is pressed but then it is going to activate every time the pedal is pushed and as earlier stated it is somewhat second nature for most people to press the brake pedal on start-up anyway, especially on an automatic (if its a manual i tend to hold in the clutch.) I think that a much cleaner way to do it would be to use one of the continuous solenoids mentioned above with a switch hidden just behind the lip at the bottom of the dash. Noone would see it with out crawling under the dash and looking for it and after a few uses it would probably become very easy to find.

[MARKDTN]

Originally Posted by a_barth

I think using the ford solenoid would work fine as Longhorn Man described because it would only be activated for a short period of time while the brake pedal is pressed but then it is going to activate every time the pedal is pushed and as earlier stated it is somewhat second nature for most people to press the brake pedal on start-up anyway, especially on an automatic (if its a manual i tend to hold in the clutch.) I think that a much cleaner way to do it would be to use one of the continuous solenoids mentioned above with a switch hidden just behind the lip at the bottom of the dash. Noone would see it with out crawling under the dash and looking for it and after a few uses it would probably become very easy to find.

After reading it again, I agree. He is just adding another solenoid like a hot-start kit. All I was trying to convey was that a Ford stater solenoid is not reated for continuous duty. For a starter interlock, they are fine. If you want to turn power on and off to the whole truck as you suggest, use a continuous duty one.

[a_barth]

I have been robbed before and my cousin's shop was recently robbed, so lately I have been puting a lot of thought into not being victimized. I lost only minor things and luckily I new roughly who took them so after a phone call and warnings spread through a few key people some of my stuff magically showed back up on my front porch. My cousin recently lost a brand new never fired 383 on the stand along with a number of alloy wheels and other parts from his locked shop. It's sad to think that all that went to a scrap yard and probably only brought a few hundred bucks.

My plan is to add a lock to the hood and install a bracket to the frame of my seat just under where I sit where I can install a push-button momentary switch wired to the Ford style starter solenoid and powered via the brake-light switch so that the button must be pushed while holding the brake and turning the key to start. This combined with a hidden fuel shut-off valve is about as safe as I can imagine short of buying one of those boots the cops use.

I only post this to give others some ideas how to make their rides a little more secure and also because this board seems like a pretty trust worthy group.