Got Me some Camel Humps!!

[JasonWynn88]

I picked up a set of 65 camel humps casting # 3782461 putting them on 1965 C10 Have a few questions about the install

1. How will they work as far as compression wise they are going on my 72 350block with 75cc heads what will the compression be? Will i have to use 2 head gaskets?

2. Will a 4 barrell in take off of a 85 chevy c10 i believe it is a factory 4 barrell will it work and accept a edelbrock carb. Trying to figure out where i will need to hook up temperature sending unit since the camel humps dont have a port for that.

3. Wanting to put a new cam in it also what cam do i need to look for that will work correctly with the camel humps. Just want something a little more aggressive than stock.

4. How hard is it to swap the alternator to the driver side i know i have to swap water pumps to a short one also.




Any Help would be apperciated



THANKS
Jason

[Captainfab]

1. Assuming your engine has the stock style dished pistons, the smaller 64cc combustion chambers will bump your compression to aprox 9.0-1 No you do not want to use 2 head gaskets. If anything I would use the thinner rubber coated steel shim head gasket, for a slight bump in compression. When you have those heads rebuilt, be sure they true up the head gasket surface.

2. A factory '85 intake will bolt up to those heads. But an Edelbrock carb will not be a direct bolt on. You will need an adapter for that. I would recommend shopping around for a good used aluminum intake. The temperature sensor can mount in the intake. You could even install a 'tee' fitting in the heater hose connection to the intake.

3. What cam depends on your intended usage of the truck, whether you have an auto trans or a manual. With a basically stock engine, you don't want to go very big on a cam. I wouldn't go much bigger than say a Summit #1103 or comparable cam.

4.To move the alternator to the drivers side, you will of course need the short water pump, the correct pulleys, alternator brackets, and belt. If you have or are planning on power steering, you will need a pump, pulleys and brackets for a '72 and older truck, or a '68 and older car.

[JasonWynn88]

Thanks very much. Just trying to figure it all out. Hoping it will work I was asking about the 2 gaskets. Because I heard you can use two to lower compression . Yeah the heads already have been redone. New valves etc just was wondering about camshaft all those numbers confuse me. My truck has the 3 speed. And is my occasional daily driver just want something with a nice lope and not to aggressive what would be a good brand to get. I was thinking about summit brand camshaft. And lifters.



Thanks for the help !!
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[koda360]

I would look for something around the Edelbrock Performer cam and the matching Performer intake. The cam I would buy new, the intake used, IF you find one not cracked and the threads in the holes aren't striped. Hard to look at a used cam and see if it's trashed.
Curious as to why you would want to lower the compression on the "hump heads"? Kinda defeats the purpose of a head swap, unless you have broken parts, and 9.0:1 will still run fine on pump gas.
What size is the carb you plan to use? Any bigger than 600 cfm is too big and will also defeat the purpose of swapping all these parts. Just say'n...
Haven't crossed referenced the Summit cam w/ the edelbrock cam, but if the lift and duration @ .050" are close, should work fine with the performer (or equal) intake.

[pmkrew]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

1. Assuming your engine has the stock style dished pistons, the smaller 64cc combustion chambers will bump your compression to aprox 9.0-1 No you do not want to use 2 head gaskets. If anything I would use the thinner rubber coated steel shim head gasket, for a slight bump in compression. When you have those heads rebuilt, be sure they true up the head gasket surface.

2. A factory '85 intake will bolt up to those heads. But an Edelbrock carb will not be a direct bolt on. You will need an adapter for that. I would recommend shopping around for a good used aluminum intake. The temperature sensor can mount in the intake. You could even install a 'tee' fitting in the heater hose connection to the intake.

3. What cam depends on your intended usage of the truck, whether you have an auto trans or a manual. With a basically stock engine, you don't want to go very big on a cam. I wouldn't go much bigger than say a Summit #1103 or comparable cam.

4.To move the alternator to the drivers side, you will of course need the short water pump, the correct pulleys, alternator brackets, and belt. If you have or are planning on power steering, you will need a pump, pulleys and brackets for a '72 and older truck, or a '68 and older car.

This is very sound advice.
The 461 double hump heads are very good OEM heads and should help some with power, do they already have screw in rocker studs or press in? If they're not screw in I would suggest finding a machine shop to either pin the studs or preferably machine them, this could save you a lot of headache if you have a heavy right foot...

[Captainfab]

The Edelbrock Performer cam is just an old school generis grind. It is exactly the same as the Summit #1102 cam, and the Summit cam is less $$.

If you want a little bit of a lope, you might look into the Comp Cams High Energy cams. In my expereince with them, they have a little lope at idle. Something like this one.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-12-210-2/

When installing a flat tappet cam these days, you must be very careful and dilligent about following the proper cam breakin precisely, and running a flat tappet cam friendly oil thereafter. If you do not, more than likely the cam will go flat, and all of that metal will be thru out your engine. There is a thread in the 'Engine and Drivetrain' FAQ about flat tapped cam compatable oils. Definitely worth the read......if you weren't already aware.

[JasonWynn88]

I was just curious about the 2 gaskets because I didn't know what compression I would have being that Iam replacing 75cc heads with 64cc I knew that my compression would go up but didn't know how much. I was. Planning on just running a 600 cfm edelbrock. Or a Holley. But don't know. Which would be better. I can get a factory 4 barrell manifold for cheap but it's a cast iron one. Also it does have pressed in studS and believe they are standard springs. What would be the biggest cam I can use with those springs?
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[koda360]

Personally I like AFB type (Edelbrock) carbs for the street/ daily driver, and Holley for racing. But that's just me and I'm sure to upset a few folks here, not my intention.

After I did a bit of research on the cams listed here, the Edelbrock Performer Plus is close to stock, maybe a bit larger depending on your stock cam.
Edelbrock Performer RPM is quite a bit bigger, more lift, lope, but less vac. @ idle.
The Summit 1103 is real close to a half way point between the two, @ a third of the price. (Vic's real proud of his stuff)

Buy the Summit cam, save the $$ for an aluminum intake. Nothing wrong with iron, but unless your looking @ one that's a square bore (equal sized opening where carb mounts) and not a spread bore (secondary holes larger than primaries) you'll still need an adapter plate.

Just convince your wallet or wife, that the money you saved buying the cheaper cam and not buying the adapter plate, is about the same as a new intake!! I see them on craigslist all the time.

[ralf]

Not being a long time Chevy guy, I had to look up Camel Humps. If you go to Google Images you just get lots of pics of Camels, go figure.

[padresag]

were you shocked at what you saw?
ron

[ralf]

I typed in camel humps, not toes. Actually once I preceded it with Chevy, all became clear.

[1Bad62Pro/Street]

Alot of people call them Peanut Heads.
There's no tellin what you would get if you typed that in the search
The famed Camel-Hump/Peanut Heads (or fuelie) heads used until '68 had no accessory bolt-holes and used 1.94 or 2.02 intake valves, depending on application. Most camel-hump heads had the 1.94 intake valves.
Lil' History:
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...#ixzz1fKYqeHQ4



Small Block Chevy Cylinder Head Identification
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=353542

Online engine resources (casting numbers, calculators, etc.)
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=382583

[198plus]

I like the Crane 1064 cam, It works great with a 350 and flat top piston's and 64cc heads. should get you pretty close to 400 HP with a good intake and carb........This cam is still available at Whites Performance.

Here's a video of my 350 before I went to a Big Block.

198plus - YouTube

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by 1Bad62Pro/Street

Alot of people call them Peanut Heads.
There's no tellin what you would get if you typed that in the search
The famed Camel-Hump/Peanut Heads (or fuelie) heads used until '68 had no accessory bolt-holes and used 1.94 or 2.02 intake valves, depending on application. Most camel-hump heads had the 1.94 intake valves.
Lil' History:
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...#ixzz1fKYqeHQ4



Small Block Chevy Cylinder Head Identification
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=353542

Online engine resources (casting numbers, calculators, etc.)
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=382583

.
What kind of heads are these on my 283?

[Captainfab]

The best thing to do is remove a valve cover and get the casting number. All I can tell you from the pics is that they are a '68 and newer head.

Originally Posted by LostMy65

.
What kind of heads are these on my 283?

[jokerz71]

Originally Posted by LostMy65

.
What kind of heads are these on my 283?

Those look like #416 305 heads.Best to check casting # to be sure tho.If so,they are the 2nd best 305 head available after the L30/305 Vortec head.Casting #059.
Actually,it appears after looking at both pictures that you have 2 different heads.

[64fleetside]

Way back in the 90s, I had a 79 Monza running a .030 over 350 with 461 heads, an Erson copy of that 350hp 327 cam, Edelbrock dual plane & q-jet, with a 4 speed. Man, what an engine, best one I ever built. Great old school combo.

[Rich 5150 69]

Get em done right they are a good set of heads.....port match, unshroud the exhaust valve wall and match all valve heights......( change out seats and valves that are sunk in heads). Mine are on a 406 smblk.

[JasonWynn88]

I think I will go with the 268H cam from comp. will it work fine with stock springs on my camel humps?? Assuming they are stock springs.
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[Captainfab]

They should work, but it is always recommended to check for coil bind and retainer to valve stem/seal clearence, when upgrading a cam.

Originally Posted by JasonWynn88

I think I will go with the 268H cam from comp. will it work fine with stock springs on my camel humps?? Assuming they are stock springs.
Posted via Mobile Device

[Rannos]

I agree with Captain... always double check. As for cam another thought would be the 279 thumper series from comp cams. It is designed to give ya a racier idle and a decent performance boost with out all the hassle of a large cam. Not downing the 268H cam, as it is a fine little cam, but it is 30 year old tech. The newer designed cam profiles can accomplish a lot more with alot less motor. Just a thought.

[WOLFMANmike]

If it were me when ever doing a cam swap . I would always buy the cams valve Springs to match said cam as well. It is a peace of mind that is money well invested in your build ... so if you can buy a full cam and lifter set with matching valve Springs. . Also something I have not seen anyone ask you or mention to you is . Do you have power brakes ? Because if you do and you get a cam with a big lope sound that means way less vacuum which means poor brakes if they are power assist. For that you will also want to buy a vacuum can from summit so remember more lope / thump means less ability to stop at lights . Without running a vacuum can .. Happy Truckin

[jokerz71]

FWIW,the humps were great heads back in the day & if you're trying be period correct,that's 1 thing,but,if you are looking for performance & efficiency,that's a whole different thing.
A set of L31 Vortec heads,or,any of the similar fastburn heads will be an instant 30 HP over any of the humps.You can make more power with less cam & have much better resistance against detonation.
Unless they have had hardened seats installed,a performance type cam & springs can beat the soft seats out of the head in no time flat.
By the time you have seats installed,install screw in studs & a valve job,you will have a lot of money tied up in a set 50 something year old heads that will be less powerful & efficient.

[LostMy65]

I'm trying to find the other post - I think by you - where you say something about a good newer head that works good on a 283.

[LostMy65]

Found your other post.

Originally Posted by jokerz71

I agree.That cam is way too big for a 283 unless you are using for strip only.Even then you're gonna need alot of stall & some really low gearing,along with more compressionto get that cam into it'operating range.
A really good head for the 283/307 is the L30/305 Vortec head.Castin g #059. These are a 58cc head & they will flow approx 220 cfm @ .500 lift with 1.84/1.5 valves.The chambers are not as efficient as the L31 heads, but, they work very good on small inch motors.Just like their big brother, the L31, they will need a Vortec specific intake.

EDIT: Sorry.I missed the part where you got it fixed !!! LOL.