brake issues

[licenseless]

so this is how it started...

i picked up the truck from the new owner... then drove it to my house... she sat for a few months (i started the motor but never drove her around)

when i got all the paper work done and was able to drive her i drove her down the road and back and the front left rotor was so hot it was glowing red... (didnt even drive a mile) all the other rotors had no sign of this at all...

so i let it cool off (the next day hahahaha) and then i pulled off the caliper and noticed she was siezed... and since its 12 bucks for a rebuilt one i just bought it and put it on.

bled the brakes and drove it around... problem seemed to go away... but i didnt drive very far either...

so the next week i drove her to work... and the front left seemed to have that problem again (after about 12 miles of driving) but it wasnt that bad... so i figured it was just the fact that the truck hadnt been used much...

so then on my drive home... i on a long stretch of road... ( about 8 miles long with out stopping or needing the brakes) i smelled the brakes... and immediatly pulled over... the ****ing rotor was glowing so bright it was insane... it was glowing and i didnt use the brakes to pull over... i used the tranny and the e brake which is for the rear of the car...

i am assuming i have a warped rotor that is rubbing against the brake pad enough to create friction...

so unless anyone else knows what this is that is causing this... please speak up...

i already have 2 new front calipers rotors and brake pads in the mail (for cheap... like 100 bucks for all of it I LOVE JCWHITNEY)

but... if anyone knows what else could be causing this... plese inform me...

[old Rusty C10]

you should prolly inspect your rubber lines they may be bad or at least the one on the left which is not allowing a full release of the brake caliper. only other thing could be the proportioning valve or a bent metal line.. but those arent near as likely

[INSIDIOUS '86]

Maybe there is a 1.25 rotor on it instead of a 1 inch and it's to thick for the 1 inch caliper?
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[chevy in my blood]

Could make sure the caliper pins are smooth also.
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[FrankieD]

You didn't say what year the truck is but if the rubber lines look orignal they could be coming apart inside but should change them anyway just for saftey sake my .02

[joe231]

x3 on the hose.

They can get internal cracks and blisters that will allow fluid to push through to the caliper but not allow the pressure to release

you can pull the caliper off and try to push the piston back into the bore, if it won't move crack the bleeder screw as you are pushing on the piston. If it moves with the bleeder open you have a bad hose.

[byeoficr]

next time it locks like that crack the bleeder. if fluid shoots out under pressure the hose is bad i have had the same problem on a 69 custom.the rotor had grooves in it from the gradual process of deterioration of the insides.

[jhngardner367]

Yep,gotta agree on the hose idea.My '85 sat for 6 years,and that's the first thing I had to change! I replaced the rear one,too,just to be safe!

[Gyawo]

Make sure you replace the rotors after this is all said and done. All that heating and cooling to the degree that you are saying it has is no good and personally I wouldn't trust them being on my truck. Anytime new pads are installed on a vehicle at the very least the rotors should be turned if possible. I honestly just replace them straight out whenever pads are done. Machining rotors only leads to brake pulsation and it having to be on the hoist again before the pads have worn out.

As stated above too, check yer hoses!