Source for copper/brass core Radiator????

[UATahoe]

Seems like it is almost impossible to find these anymore. Ordered one from advanced auto that was described as a copper/brass core and metal tanks but the radiator that arrived was aluminum and plastic. Summit wasnt for sure either. Anybody know a source for these that doesnt charge an arm and a leg?

[88Jimmy4x4]

got my copper/brass from advance auto parts, maybe you ordered the wrong part number

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...rad_19920640-p

Ready-Rad Radiator Part No. 438161.....$166.19 with $50 off coupon shipped for free

[UATahoe]

Actually, no I didn't. I ordered part number 438716 which is the right one for my 87. Unfortunately when it showed up it was aluminum. I then called advanced auto and they proceeded to tell me they no longer sold copper/brass core radiators and they were aware the website stated they did.

Thanks for the response though. I thought I was all set until it was delivered. Summit lists the exact same radiator but I am just worried the same thing will happen.
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[Axle]

The aftermarket is moving to aluminum plastic, so you will come across some where the manufacturer has already made the switch.

I ended up with one for my Nova (SPI aluminum/plastic) and I gotta say, that thing was a better fit than any copper/brass rad I've had in the past. Cools better to. The tranny cooler lines where dead on as well and have been so far the only ones that I have never had to snug up further due to seepage. Its also 9 pounds lighter.

Alex.

[Outlaw87]

U.S. Radiator, but they are high dollar.

[king-918]

maybe im missing the point but why would it matter?

[76C10Stepside]

I went through this not long ago. Needed to replace the original 3-row H/D rad in my Mustang. Every place I called/went into listed them as copper in their database, but when they brought it out, it was an aluminum POS.
Speed shops say they have copper, but prices start around $400.
Called some radiator shops for prices on rebuilding (way too much). One shop said "all" of the radiators are being made in two factories in Thailand. He also said they are using smaller diameter tubes in the aluminum ones, and because of this, they develop blockage way faster and are only good for about 3 years.

In the end, I ended up pressure testing an old copper rad in one of my other project cars and amazingly, it was in great shape after sitting for 18 years! Even the coolant looked like new, and no corrosion. So, now that car needs a new radiator...

I'm glad I bought a new heavy-duty radiator for the truck several years ago.

[UATahoe]

Who knows. It may not matter. I just like the idea of the copper/brass from a durability standpoint.

Interesting info though. I actually called Vista Pro. The person i reached actually told me that the copper/brass was still available but the factory had a huge packing error which resulted in the aluminum cores being placed in the boxes labeled for the copper/brass ones. She told me that the copper/brass core was currently on backorder due to the problem and that they should be available again in mid August. Now whether that really is the case, i couldnt tell you.

I did however have a long discussion with Summit Racing and i now have, what i believe to be at least, a copper/brass on the way. The guy actually had the box opened and inspected to verify. Hopefully that was the case. I will know today around 5 when it is delivered.

In the end, the aluminum/plastic radiators may work just fine. I am sure they do. I just like metal over plastic. One of the main reasons i bought my 87 to restore LOL. Getting harder and harder these days to find vehicles actually made of metal. Sorry for the long post.

[Firebirdjones]

Get yourself a good quality aluminum radiator from Griffin or Be Cool and never look back.

Stay away from the cheap china crap and plastic tanks.

I've used both Griffin and Be Cool and have had excellent results, excellent quality and efficiency.

Or better yet have a custom unit made from a place like this......rondavisradiators.com Top quality and made in the USA too, he builds for all the desert racers out here.
I'm going to have him build a custom unit for my 79 1 ton pickup with a 502 that currently runs it's original 4 core copper Harrison unit (now 33 years old) and still doing it's job. But it's reached a point where it's life expectancy could leave me stranded at some point in the future so it's coming out for a better unit

[Axle]

I used to be a rabid copper/brass supporter. Then I got a newer car with an aluminum/plastic rad. That eventually needed to be replaced, and I naturally got an its-better-becuase its copper/brass rad for it.

That was a let down. What I found was thinner materials and that rad did not last anywhere near as long as it should have (4years 6 months). (along with a universal fit, mounting holes that didn't line up, tabs offset by just enough to need modification...) Replaced that with another plastic/aluminum job and its been there since Jan 2006. Based on that, I'm a convert and becuase of the less than stellar quality of a "new" copper/brass unit I decided to keep the aluminum/plastic one for the Nova.

YMMV =-)

Alex.

[Firebirdjones]

I have one newer car left in the stable that is now 13 years old and still has it's original aluminum radiator with plastic tanks. Seems that is what the manufactures went to quite a long time ago.

I've personally never had an issue with them, they seem to last for many years so long as you maintain routine flushes (true with any radiator really)

But if it ever does let go I can tell you I won't bother replacing it with another plastic unit and can't understand why anyone would when there are better quality "full" aluminum units on the market that do a better job. That's what I put in everything now whether it had copper or plastic.

[Cheyenne Dan]

Try O'Reilly, I got one for mine a few months ago.
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[76C10Stepside]

Clarification: I just repeated what one radiator shop guy told me, did not take it as gospel. I'd like to know the real truth.
If anyone out there has their aluminum/plastic radiator fail, feel free to cut out a cross section and report back on the inner-diameter of the tubes, how much corrosion build-up is in them, and how long the radiator lasted! One or two is still "anecdotal evidence", but better than "it worked for me" or "it broke". ;-}

I suspect that the source of the part makes a big difference. For example, reman parts from Canada (and U.S. when you can find them) seem to be better quality than from Asia. I'd rather buy Mexican parts than Asian (China, Malaysia, Thailand). If the design, materials and construction are all good, it's probably a good part. Entire countries either DO or DON'T value/embrace Quality in manufacturing. Don't think they ever made radiators in Taiwan, but if they did, they would probably be pretty good, because quality is highly valued in that country. Malaysia and and China don't give a damn about quality. It's obvious from the products they export.

[UATahoe]

Radiator delivered was copper and brass. All metal. This one came from summit
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[88Jimmy4x4]

Originally Posted by UATahoe

Radiator delivered was copper and brass. All metal. This one came from summit
Posted via Mobile Device

Good deal, my copper/brass radiator fit perfectly with factory rubber pads and mounts....very pleased

[tucsonjwt]

I got my copper radiator made by Ready Rad two years back. It did spring a very small leak this year, but I am in Hotzona. It was the cheapest radiator I could find (about $135, I think, delivered to my door.) I just google searched online for it.

[slam59]

Saw this online and never heard of this brand before. Anyone hear of them and are they decent? I am needing a radiator too and was looking at different ones. Link below, if you scrolll down it is the fourth one down, the 4 core for $214

http://www.drivewire.com/vehicle/197...ckup/radiator/

[tucsonjwt]

I don't know about that vendor, but I think this talk of needing a 4 core radiator is unnecessary unless you are running a big modified engine or towing mega loads. I have a Ready Rad larger style 3 core for my 454 in the AZ desert and have never had a problem. The aluminum radiators require special skills to repair when they leak, although street rods and my former 63 SWC Corvette have/had aluminum radiators. As long as you physically have the room for a larger radiator in copper I think that makes more sense. Corvettes and street rods have limited space. My $.02.

[maskale]

Originally Posted by slam59

Saw this online and never heard of this brand before. Anyone hear of them and are they decent? I am needing a radiator too and was looking at different ones. Link below, if you scrolll down it is the fourth one down, the 4 core for $214

http://www.drivewire.com/vehicle/197...ckup/radiator/

Thats a SPECTRA CU165, there are other places that sell it, just google it.

Im am also looking for my 76, to replace the 4 core thats in it, but autozone website says this one does not fit. But its probably worth a try. I have not found anywhere that list the a 4 core that fits.

I checked griffin, seems most of theres are unifversal fit for my year range.

[C&C Chevy]

I was looking at those Ready-Rads too. Their quality control has mixed reviews to say the least! Yours looks good though.

[88Jimmy4x4]

Nice tucsonjwt, quality was great in the one I got, I have zero complaints and I am 100% satisfied.

[tucsonjwt]

I am not advocating Ready Rad. I only bought a Ready Rad because I needed one the same day my radiator blew and I am cheap so I did not want to spend a lot of money on my old truck. I always use OEM Delco or GM when the parts are available and have time to wait for them, unless the price is ridiculos high. I can't remember the model number but it was the one they had in their catalog for an 83 C20 454 manual trans, you can check for 3.125"
thick specification.
I did have to take the Ready Rad out and take it to a local radiator shop to repair a very small leak (about $40 repair), so that argues for a better quality radiator. I think I paid about $125 total for the Ready Rad, so add $40 for a repair and I would say the real cost is $165.
I think quality control is lacking on all parts, but I think OEM is always a better bet - but I have had trouble occasionally with Delco parts.
So, price OEM radiator online if you have time to wait. If it is about $200 or less, then go with OEM. If it is like $400- forget it - Ready Rad will do the job.
The radiator I replaced in my truck was the exact same Ready Rad that I installed - it was beyond repair after probably 15+ years of use. It was worth about $125 for my purposes.
If you are towing or hauling or have a mega horse street rod the you need a custom radiator, and I have heard Griffin or Be Cool are good brands.
I had an aluminum radiator (factory) in my 63 Corvette SWC 327/300 hp when I was a teenager. It did cool well. In a small engine compartment you need a superior radiator and that aluminum radiator barely fit in that small space. A big monster engine crammed in a street rod has the same problem.
Corvettes with 396 or 427 engines have big overheating problems. Those guys use extra cooling fans and other tricks to keep the temps down, but I have read that keeping that rat motor cool is a big challenge, espcecially when they are cruising around at slow speeds and showing off.
I may be wrong but I don't think the average radiator repair shop is skilled in aluminum radiator repair. When my Corvette radiator needed repair I just got blank stares from the local radiator shop (return overflow nipple broke off when the hood hit it - factory defect later corrected by shaving down a rivet holding the "cookie tin" trim plate on the hood.) So, a buddy of mine got a brass elbow and some perrmagasket to do the fix. Crude repair and it wouldn't pass NCRS inspection, but it worked. I like simple and cheap, so I would avoid the pricey aluminum radiators, but each to his or her own.

[Firebirdjones]

I like simple and cheap too (I think everyone would) but a radiator isn't something I'm willing to do that on anymore.

I bought a champion aluminum because they were cheap ($200) compared to the other aluminums I run, and it was for my daily driver (72 blazer)
It wasn't in there a week and the driver side tank turned green down the entire length. I took it to a local shop here in Prescott Valley and they fixed it no problem. But it was enough to tell me I'll never do that again. I just try to avoid alot of this China made stuff anymore.
Actually I find the aluminum tanks easier to repair, they are simply tigged, or you can use a mig setup for aluminum. It's fairly easy.
The copper is a little trickier because it's soldered. I've fixed some copper core leaks with resoldering, but it's tricky to apply the heat without melting solder in other places. Of course someone good at soldering would have more success.

We had (and recently sold) a bloomington gold 71 454 vette with 30,000 original miles. It's factory 4 core radiator would keep it cool even with the AC on. It would climb to ~200 in traffic which is warmer than I like for anything, but considered acceptable for a big block vette. It really wasn't that bad at all, but I've seen many others that can't idle through a grocery store parking lot

[88Jimmy4x4]

they came from the factory with copper/brass and made it thru traffic, parking lots and did just fine...I didnt buy mine because it was cheap...I bought mine because it was period correct

[Firebirdjones]

Originally Posted by 88Jimmy4x4

they came from the factory with copper/brass and made it thru traffic, parking lots and did just fine...I didnt buy mine because it was cheap...I bought mine because it was period correct

That's the sweet thing about the Griffin's, they duplicate the factory appearance. The only aluminum radiator that I know of doing this. I have a concours restored car here with a Griffin painted the correct shade of black. You can't tell it isn't OEM unless you are trying to find the Harrison stamp, and most people don't know where to look for that. It fools most everyone that looks at it. The original is kept in a box so I didn't ruin anything .
The last thing I'm worried about being period correct on is my old pickup trucks