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01-25-2013, 02:25 AM | #1 |
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Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Lantana, TX
Posts: 419
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AutoX Performance
I thought about just PMing some sponsors, but figured it would be better to get lots of ideas of how to accomplish my goal. About 4 years ago my 67 Shortstep was going to be a driver that I used whenever I wasn't going to work. Basically if I was going shooting, grocery shopping, Lowes/THD, paintballing with the kids, etc. I would drive the truck. Plans have changed and the truck no longer needs to have any utility what-so-ever.
My desire is to have a truck that is as low as possible that can plant big power and handle extremely well. It won't be driven often, but when it is, it will be beaten on severely. My only requirements are that I use stock frame rails, Shockwaves for speed bumps, steep driveways (mine) and it utilizes a spline drive sway bar. I know PB offers the C4, mild and touring chassis, they also did a dropmember for Hill's Blazer. No Limit is also a great resource and autocrosses their trucks as does The Roadster Shop. I've followed tons of builds and have lots of ideas, but I don't know what exactly is a realistic expectation and what the best way to achieve my goals are. I think the first thing that I need help on is how low can I go on my ride height? The Hill Blazer is 3.5" off the ground, is that about as low as I want to go? Posted via Mobile Device Posted via Mobile Device |
01-25-2013, 10:06 AM | #2 |
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Location: Lantana, TX
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Re: AutoX Performance
Good morning guys, to add a little bit more texture to my plans, I'm specifically looking for a good ride height to target first and then moving on and thinking to get to that ride height, do I go with a drop spindle and coil over, or just a coil over and adjust the mounting points? On the rear, do I go straight to the 4 link outside the frame rails or would the ride be better with a Z and PB tubular trailing arms? Looking at mounting locations for the rear, do I do a rear shock bar or mount straight to the frame?
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01-25-2013, 12:54 PM | #3 |
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Dandridge, Tn. USA
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Re: AutoX Performance
Getting it "low", with 'stock' rails. first speed bump. Up front, once you go down 5" (spindle + spring) the stock lower control arm mounts hit everything in town. Out back its rail and bed floor issues. I never really got the whole 'bolt-in C notch' craze. Look, once the axle travels 3/4" into the notche area, the top of the third member housing smacks the bed floor. Thats a bunch of effort and $$ for 3/4". You will need to raire the bed floor and rails to get serious. Look at Mike Hickmans Hotchkis prepped C10. It handles great, and it's on stock rails, yes it has a small C notch. That is about as low as you can go on a stock platform and make it work.
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01-25-2013, 01:25 PM | #4 |
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Location: Mesa,Az
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Re: AutoX Performance
As for your ride height... we have found that 5" from the bottom of the rails (under the cab) to the ground is a good LOW ride height, but yields adequate ground clearance for most roads.
If this is the ride height you are looking for, you will need to toss out the factory front x-member and get into your bed floor with a mild notch. Overall tire diameter will also play a large role in getting the correct set-up. Nate
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01-25-2013, 02:28 PM | #5 |
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Location: california
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Re: AutoX Performance
We have found that 4" is as low as we go while still maintaining a good ride and good handling; Of course this is based on our final overal tire height.
Just about any of the aftermarket bolt in suspensions for your truck can achieve what you are looking for. I would suggest you call each and every one of us and discuss what you are looking to do and get informed on what you will get. Although we don't do a bolt in rear, our customers have had great luck with our weld in 4-link or weld in 4-bar and a basic weld in step notch. In the rear you are pretty much lmited by the frame hitting the axle, then the bed hitting the axle next. Depending upon how much work you want to do you can get as low as you want. With stock rails and no step notch, however, I don't think you'll get to wherevyou wanna be in the back. |
01-25-2013, 02:41 PM | #6 |
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Location: Lantana, TX
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Re: AutoX Performance
Thanks for the responses guys. I need to clarify "stock rails" so you guys know I'm not trying to do the impossible. I'm completely aware that all the crossmembers will need to be replaced and/or modified. The "rails" comment was directed more towards not building a tube chassis like Hellboy, buying flow formed rails or building my own 2x4 chassis. The bed floor will be removed in it's entirety. I'm looking at running 17" wheels to clear most big brake setups, but may have an extra set for "looks", total tire height currently is 27", no more than 28".
Currently the truck has a 555 BBC with a T56 behind it and the cab floor around the trans tunnel has been cut back to just under the seating area. Another question was for handling purposes, do I need coil overs out back, or does a sleeved bag outside the rails control things good enough? I don't really think there is anything out back that a bag/shock combo couldn't handle or that a coil over would make that much better in comparison simply due to the lack of weight. Am I wrong about that? |
01-25-2013, 03:34 PM | #7 | |
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Re: AutoX Performance
Quote:
A sleeved bag with a quality adjustable shock will do just fine. If you are aiming solely for performance I would go with a coil-over... but if you are looking for more of a Hybrid that is comfortable to ride in, yet isn't a slouch around corners you can accomplish it with a Sleeved bag and a nice shock.
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www.PorterbuiltFabrication.com Phone: 480-297-2621 E-mail: sales@pbfab.com Find us on FaceBook under Porterbuilt Fabrication Specializing in Chassis and Suspension Components for your Classic Chevrolet Truck. We offer components from the following manufacturers: Porterbuilt Accuair Ridetech (Air Ride Technologies) Air Lift Wilwood Intro Unisteer ECE Gotta Show Air Lift Borgeson CPP Supporting this forum since 2003! |
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