Wheel Cylinder Replacement- Driverside Front

[JAM55]

1963 C10 SBW Stepside - Where do I start? I know you guys will encourage me to switch over to Disc's on the front but funds limit that choice at this time (maybe a winter project?). I started to remove the old wheel cylinder (it leaked) but when I got to the fastener that holds it in place, I cannot for the life of me get it loose. I tried heat, breakerbar, penetrating oil,etc... I believe I will need to cut it off and drill out with progessive drill sizes to remove the remainder of the fatener.
My question is: Does anyone know where I can locate a replacement part to mount the Wheel Cylinder? I have explored the internet and cannot find it anywhere. Not even a part number.... Any suggestions? Your help would be much appreciated! Thanks

Oh ya, I broke the old wheel cylider off from the lug

[Sharps40]

Heat or soak the lug in PB blaster...It unscrews from the spindle. Try a plumbers pipe wrench with a cheater bar.

Another old trick is heat it up and cool it with bees wax, wicks down into the threads and it backs out.

If you can get the lug off, either junk yard or last ditch,,,make a new one up on the lathe.

The wheel cylinder is available under $13 bucks from orellies auto parts, often in stock.

[JAM55]

Originally Posted by Sharps40

Heat or soak the lug in PB blaster...It unscrews from the spindle. Try a plumbers pipe wrench with a cheater bar.

Another old trick is heat it up and cool it with bees wax, wicks down into the threads and it backs out.

If you can get the lug off, either junk yard or last ditch,,,make a new one up on the lathe.

The wheel cylinder is available under $13 bucks from orellies auto parts, often in stock.

Thanks Sharps40! I've tried to heat it with a MAPPS GAS tourch and did try to pursuade it with the Pipe Wrench as you suggested (that's why it looks a little buggered up). I've not tried the bee's wax approach but it sounds like a good appraoch... Thanks!

[Sharps40]

If its rusted in tight, drilling and easy outs won't do it. Worst case, hit the junkers and get a whole replacement spindle and hope the lug will turn in and out of that one for rebuilding.

Mapp may not be enough heat and the backing plate and cylinder coller is keepin any release agents from getting to the threads.

See if you can get someone with oxyacetlyne to warm up the spindle/lug hotter (member, ya don't always have to go cherry red, but ya do need enough power to warm up the entire mass) and try wicking in the oil or wax from front and back (i.e. between backing plate and spindle)

Luck...rusty bolts suck.

[JAM55]

Originally Posted by Sharps40

If its rusted in tight, drilling and easy outs won't do it. Worst case, hit the junkers and get a whole replacement spindle and hope the lug will turn in and out of that one for rebuilding.

Mapp may not be enough heat and the backing plate and cylinder coller is keepin any release agents from getting to the threads.

See if you can get someone with oxyacetlyne to warm up the spindle/lug hotter (member, ya don't always have to go cherry red, but ya do need enough power to warm up the entire mass) and try wicking in the oil or wax from front and back (i.e. between backing plate and spindle)

Luck...rusty bolts suck.

50 years of luck! Sucks to be me.....

[Sharps40]

Been there many times. If ya have no bees wax, try candle wax. Try also, heat it all and cold water on the lug to shrink it from the spindle. I'm thinkin the spindle will have to be hotter. Might wanna pull the spindle so the ball joint doesn't explode when the greese heats up. That's another of those tough jobs....many blows from a 5 lb SmasherWacker to separate the ball joints!

[tincan1966]

Just an FYI and a recommendation-

You should replace wheel cylinders in pairs, just like the brake shoes and shocks. it'll keep things working evenly. Chances are the shoes were/are contaminated with fluid from the leaking cylinder anyway. With these old drum setups, you're looking at less than $100 to freshen up everything,including new hardware(which I'd also recommend)

There's no price on safety.

As far as removing the wheel cylinder holddown bolt. I'd try the oxy/acet to heat the spindle, always heat the surrounding metal, NOT the bolt, then a SOCKET and breaker bar on the bolts. Once you start at it with a pipe wrench, you eliminate any chance of a socket ever fitting it again, and you won't be able to reuse it and torque it properly when installed.

[JAM55]

Originally Posted by tincan1966

Just an FYI and a recommendation-

You should replace wheel cylinders in pairs, just like the brake shoes and shocks. it'll keep things working evenly. Chances are the shoes were/are contaminated with fluid from the leaking cylinder anyway. With these old drum setups, you're looking at less than $100 to freshen up everything,including new hardware(which I'd also recommend)

There's no price on safety.

As far as removing the wheel cylinder holddown bolt. I'd try the oxy/acet to heat the spindle, always heat the surrounding metal, NOT the bolt, then a SOCKET and breaker bar on the bolts. Once you start at it with a pipe wrench, you eliminate any chance of a socket ever fitting it again, and you won't be able to reuse it and torque it properly when installed.

Thanks Tincan1966! You right as the otherside will e done too. If it's not leakingnow, it's only a matter of time it will -SAFETY First...

[aerotruk63]

I was once able to unfreeze a bolt by hooking up the positive cable of a AC arc welder to the bolt and the negative cable to the housing. Turned on the welder for a minute or so. There was no significant heat build up but the bolt released. Maybe a fluke.
Group 5.055- GM part #3705732





Seems like this part number was shared with the passenger car line as well. Corvair Impala Corvette front and rear.

Amazon.com: 1957-1962 Corvette Rear Brake Shoe...

[JAM55]

Seems like this part number was shared with the passenger car line as well. Corvair Impala Corvette front and rear.

Amazon.com: 1957-1962 Corvette Rear Brake Shoe...
[/quote]

Wow! That's a load a great info Aerotruk63- Greatly appreciated... You guys are truely helpful out here

[tincan1966]

Can't tell in pic, but you do have the locking tabs folded back around the hex part of the bolt, don't you?
Not meaning to be a smarta**, just can't tell in pic, and sometimes the socket will actually fit over them.

[JAM55]

Originally Posted by tincan1966

Can't tell in pic, but you do have the locking tabs folded back around the hex part of the bolt, don't you?
Not meaning to be a smarta**, just can't tell in pic, and sometimes the socket will actually fit over them.

Thanks Tincan1966 but no tabs... Great thought though!

[Corts60]

I just soaked mine everyday with PB blaster for about 3 days. Then I used a breaker bar and went back and forth between that and an impact wrench. Worked for me.
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[aerotruk63]

50/50 Acetone and Automatic transmission fluid. rated the best as a penetrating fluid.

[JAM55]

Well, aside from writing a book - I got the part off.... Because I was not going to be defeated, and after basically stripping the Hex with the Impact Gun and a Breaker Bar, I sat there and pondered another solution. After all the suggestions of (heat which I did) (home solution concoctions), I actually put a VERY LARGE Pipewrench on the piece of the Wheel Cylinder that broke off (the ear part) which had a longe surface area to grab a hold of, put my foot on the wrench to hold it place and started banging away...... Walla ... it broke free.

Thanks Aerotruck63 for the part number today! I ordered it first thing this morning and in a few days, should be back on the road... Thanks to all of you that contributed your input (help) to my dilema..... You are all Great! JAM55

[aerotruk63]

Another trick if you have a welding machine and you don't care for the piece you've scrapped already is to weld on a scrap piece of bar or pipe to the scrapped part for added grip. The heat from the welding process will also aid in loosening up the piece.

[JAM55]

Originally Posted by aerotruk63

Another trick if you have a welding machine and you don't care for the piece you've scrapped already is to weld on a scrap piece of bar or pipe to the scrapped part for added grip. The heat from the welding process will also aid in loosening up the piece.

That's a good idea also! I do not have a welder but friends of mine do and they would gladly bring it over to help... Thanks again for your insight!!!!

[Sharps40]

Glad to see it done....now off to the other side??

[JAM55]

Originally Posted by Sharps40

Glad to see it done....now off to the other side??

Yupper - Absolutely....

[Sharps40]

Grease or antiseze the threads on reinstall so it'll be easier to back them out later.

[JAM55]

Received my Brake part today! Started to gather my parts to assemble but I thought I would do a dry fit first. Low and behold the new part that was ordered did not fit through the mounting hole of the Wheel Cylinder & a little longer too. The shank after the threaded end is a larger diameter than the stock one. I will need to have a machinist turn the diameter down to fit.
As the saying goes: File to fit, Paint to match......

[Sharps40]

Might as well have it trimmed to length at the same time. Sucks. But, at least ye'll know its all spanky new when it comes together.

[JAM55]

Okay all you Specification Guru's... I've got my stuff back together (brakes) and am having issue's with brake pedal travel (too far?). I've bled alll the brakes starting from furthest away and working closer to Master Cylinder. My pedal travel from initial contact to approximate engagement of Master Cylinder resistance seems to be approximately 5 to 6 inches and that ending less than .25 inches from the floor before complete vehicle stoppage.

Is there a listed Specification for pedal travel before brake engagement?

[Sharps40]

If no air then yer shoes are backed off too far. Adjust out for light drad (tire spins 1/2 to 1 turn before stopped by the drag). Adjust all 4 wheels. Drive - should be better. Final tweaks if it pulls left or right.

If that aint the fix check for air. I usually run at least a qt thru a system (all 4) after having it open.

Luck!
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[Sharps40]

If no air then yer shoes are backed off too far. Adjust out for light drad (tire spins 1/2 to 1 turn before stopped by the drag). Adjust all 4 wheels. Drive - should be better. Final tweaks if it pulls left or right.

If that aint the fix check for air. I usually run at least a qt thru a system (all 4) after having it open.

Pedal should be firming up in top 1/3 and hard by 1/2 stroke.

Luck!
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