Register or Log In To remove these advertisements. |
|
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
07-17-2013, 12:02 AM | #1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Mt. Prospect, ILL
Posts: 820
|
Useful Tidbits and other Information
Hey guys,
The more and more I get into my project, the more I have questions that I want to ask, but they aren't worth making a new thread for. Basically I'm hoping this will be for those questions that tend to get other people's threads off track. I'll start it off, After I melted the lead off the truck, I was wondering what I'd use to fill the groove once I'm ready for body work. Could I use plumbing solder to fill the crack? |
07-17-2013, 12:31 AM | #2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Idaho
Posts: 8,800
|
Re: Useful Tidbits and other Information
__________________
1959 Chevy Short Fleetside w/ 74 4WD drive train (current project) OrrieG Build Thread 1964 Chevelle Malibu w/ 355-350TH (daily driver) Helpful AD and TF Manual Site Old Car Manual Project |
07-17-2013, 12:59 AM | #3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Auburn ca.
Posts: 2,886
|
Re: Useful Tidbits and other Information
|
07-17-2013, 02:12 AM | #4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Lakes Region NH
Posts: 3,200
|
Re: Useful Tidbits and other Information
Many lead products, some solders included, contain antimony and arsenic which can affect the integrity of the lead over time by causing galvanic corrosion. Auto body lead has these impurities removed. If you can find solid core wire and you're sure it's high quality, then with the correct tinning compound it will work as body filler.
|
07-17-2013, 03:25 AM | #5 |
Hollister Road Co.
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Houston
Posts: 6,131
|
Re: Useful Tidbits and other Information
Leading is an art, difficult to get good results and looks crappy if you have never done it. Don't ever use a rosin core lead solder it has acid in it. You have lead on there now and non lead (Eastwood) melts at a different temperature so it may just slide of the original lead.
I use all-metal or metal -2- metal both are aluminized fillers that do not shrink and accomplish the same thing as lead, much easier to use and finish with the same result http://www.evercoat.com/productDetail.aspx?pID=37 |
07-29-2013, 12:48 PM | #6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Mt. Prospect, ILL
Posts: 820
|
Re: Useful Tidbits and other Information
Thanks
So I was looking at the front cab mounts in the LMC catalog, and it seems like there isn't much between the cab and the frame. I was wondering, has anyone ever tried using those biscuit style motor mounts? What Have you guys done? |
07-29-2013, 06:31 PM | #7 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 917
|
Re: Useful Tidbits and other Information
Did exactly that along with cup style freeze plugs welded to the cab and frame for locating mounts. I think it's slick but this is the best picture I have and you can't see it real well. I put a cup just like it on the cab brace and the biscuit goes in the middle. Used the same bolt.
|
08-01-2013, 02:49 PM | #8 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Mt. Prospect, ILL
Posts: 820
|
Re: Useful Tidbits and other Information
Thanks for the picture!
Your build looks fantastic. Are the frame mounts (I don't know what to call them, the triangular pieces) at the same same height as the frame? Or did you have to compensate for the height of the rubber mounts? |
08-09-2013, 12:00 PM | #9 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Mt. Prospect, ILL
Posts: 820
|
Re: Useful Tidbits and other Information
So while replacing the kick panel, I was looking at the piece of trim highlighted in the picture.
I was wondering, what was the point of this trim? It seems like its there to cover up the seams of the other panels. And what would happen if I were to remove it? Just a little more work filling in the gaps? Thanks |
08-09-2013, 03:49 PM | #10 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Oregon
Posts: 3,303
|
Re: Useful Tidbits and other Information
Normally a cloth covered rope called "wind lace" goes there and keeps air from rushing into the cab at speeds and aesthetically finishes the area
|
08-10-2013, 07:09 AM | #11 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Floyds Knobs, IN
Posts: 430
|
Re: Useful Tidbits and other Information
Actually that is for the rubber windlace to slide into. That being the inner rubber seal that fills the gap between the body and the doors. The lower sections by the kick panels are the ones that usually rust out along with the kick panel. You will need them if you put the inner windlace back.
|
08-10-2013, 07:12 AM | #12 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Floyds Knobs, IN
Posts: 430
|
Re: Useful Tidbits and other Information
Quote:
|
|
08-10-2013, 11:33 AM | #13 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Mt. Prospect, ILL
Posts: 820
|
Re: Useful Tidbits and other Information
When I was looking at it, the first thought that came to mind was some sort of weatherstripping, but it didn't seem like it would work considering that it faces away from the door seam.
Quote:
Thanks |
|
08-11-2013, 08:11 PM | #14 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Brooksville Ky
Posts: 531
|
Re: Useful Tidbits and other Information
Duraglass is good stuff.
|
Bookmarks |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|