old skool way...?

[lasher78]

id like to lower my 66 c10 stepper like 2" front and back and want to do it with a $o budget. my buddies family has been in the hotrod game for like three generations and said we can put in on a flat level concrete pad and measure frame to ground on all 4 corners and then make four stands exactly 2" shorter than measurment put those under frame and then gently heat the coils till truck rests on the stands. said this is how the old timers did it before there was lowering springs and all the high dollar gizmos of today. i tend to trust them as they all have cool rides. just want to get everyones opinion on this espeacially any old timers that might have done this back in the day... any comments welcome and /or ideas
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[slepysal]

I'm an old low rider and that's the way some would lower there cars back in the day, and yes I did it too. Looked cool but after awhile it would ride like a boat on a choppy water.
It is a low budget way to drop it. But you could get a better ride by using jeep springs. I lowered my 60 about 4" and it rode nice, couldn't carry more then 400 lbs. so I got some drop springs.
To bad you were not closer.. I would give you the jeep springs for a six pack

[lasher78]

Originally Posted by slepysal

I'm an old low rider and that's the way some would lower there cars back in the day, and yes I did it too. Looked cool but after awhile it would ride like a boat on a choppy water.
It is a low budget way to drop it. But you could get a better ride by using jeep springs. I lowered my 60 about 4" and it rode nice, couldn't carry more then 400 lbs. so I got some drop springs.
To bad you were not closer.. I would give you the jeep springs for a six pack

the jeep springs wouldnt allow you to carry more than 400lbs? why not, you can haul more rhan that in a jeep? what year jeep did coils come from, did you have to modify or just bolt them in? not really to concerned with hauling anything i plan on getting bags for rear and front on down the road. i just dont want to lower truck to the point of having to notch frame and mess up bed floor.
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[19666Trucker]

Don't heat the spring use cut off wheel heat turn the metal to glass that ride being crappie that spring breaking
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[Tortuga_64]

The jeep springs are not as sturdy as the rear coils that come in out trucks, I did the jeep springs in the rear of mine, they are direct bolt in, Cant comment on the ride quality or hauling capacity but i'm not wanting to haul anything in mine.

[lasher78]

Originally Posted by Tortuga_64

The jeep springs are not as sturdy as the rear coils that come in out trucks, I did the jeep springs in the rear of mine, they are direct bolt in, Cant comment on the ride quality or hauling capacity but i'm not wanting to haul anything in mine.

what yr jeep doner? what about front? how much in rear did it lower it?
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[slepysal]

Originally Posted by tortuga_64

the jeep springs are not as sturdy as the rear coils that come in out trucks, i did the jeep springs in the rear of mine, they are direct bolt in

x2

[lasher78]

x2??? what does that mean...sorry
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[slepysal]

Originally Posted by lasher78

x2??? what does that mean...sorry
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It means that I agree........

[Tortuga_64]

Use jeep TJ coils, and i cut off 1 & 1/2 coils up front. I think the TJ coils lowers the rear about 4" but not too sure.

[BR3W CITY]

I've done stuff like that this in a pinch, but cut TJ coils is a mile better than any heated coil. I'd prefer just a real lowering spring or a drop spindle (I mean $150 isn't expensive in this hobby, though I get the need to keep on a budget)

fwiw, just cuz it "Worked back in the day" does not mean it was a good idea, the right way to do it, or even safe.

[Tortuga_64]

Clarifying my earlier post I cut 1&1/2 coils of factory coils up front and swapped rear for TJ coils, I plan do do more to get her lower but this was a good and cheap start

[19666Trucker]

93 and up for the year
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[blazins10]

why not just put a 2 in block in the rear ?
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[slepysal]

Originally Posted by blazins10

why not just put a 2 in block in the rear ?
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OP wanted the cheapest way, but yes blocks would be another way to go

[R_W]

I found a set of TJ coils in the back of our shop, I just might have to try this to see what my stance looks like. Rides like a float boat already, can't get worse
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[blazins10]

Originally Posted by slepysal

OP wanted the cheapest way, but yes blocks would be another way to go

so jeep coils are free these days ?

[slepysal]

Originally Posted by blazins10

so jeep coils are free these days ?

Sure I have a set for FREE local pick up only
Lowering blocks are about 60.00
used jeep springs 20-40.00 or free if you pick mine up

[bama63]

Originally Posted by blazins10

so jeep coils are free these days ?

mine were! a local 4x4 shop had probably 200 pairs in the scrap bin, told me to take all i needed,so i got two almost new sets and this handy info from him.

There are four different versions of the springs that were used from 1997 through 2006. jeep TJ These are the ones that can be used on the C10. Similar rear springs could be found on the Jeep Grand Cherokee ZJ. All four versions are the same length wise but vary in rate.
The only way to tell them apart is by the color coded tags that are on the springs from the factory, they read as follows:
103AA (or 3AA) 130lb.
104AA (or 4AA) 140lb.
105AA (or 5AA) 150lb.
106AA (or 6AA) 160lb.

[R_W]

Originally Posted by bama63

.....The only way to tell them apart is by the color coded tags that are on the springs from the factory, they read as follows:
103AA (or 3AA) 130lb.
104AA (or 4AA) 140lb.
105AA (or 5AA) 150lb.
106AA (or 6AA) 160lb.

Looks like the ones I found are the squishy ones. Gonna try them anyway, will only cost some PB Blaster. And 1,000 questions from the chidren.


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[Lugnutz65]

Originally Posted by lasher78

id like to lower my 66 c10 stepper like 2" front and back and want to do it with a $o budget . . . . . . .

From reading your other posts, it sounds like your budget for fixing and upgrading your truck is rather low. There is no shame in that. Just be realistic and do one thing at a time. That way the truck will stay on the road and not become a half finished project that just sits because of lack of funds. A stock height truck that runs is WAAAAAAAY cooler than a lowered truck that just sits in the yard because it won't run and drive. IMHO.

Originally Posted by lasher78

. . . . . then gently heat the coils till truck rests on the stands.

I would not recommend heating the coils. Does it work? Yes. However, if you ever have to remove the coils, they will likely be warped and hard to get back into place correctly. I know this because a fellow with a nicely lowered 62 removed his to replace trailing arms and his springs were so warped that they were a twisted mess. He had to replace them with stock rear springs. Blocks would be about the cheapest and easiest option. But not zero $$$.

Originally Posted by lasher78

just want to get everyones opinion on this . . . . . . any comments welcome and /or ideas.

I think you said in other posts that you had to do other stuff to get the old girl running again. I understand that maybe you want to save money on the springs and lowering so you have it for other mods. I'd just hate to see you get too many modifications started all at once and then get stuck with a truck that's not driveable.

[lasher78]

thanks lugnutz65 for all the info..ur right budget is almost non existent lol. truck been sitring 13yrs with not a single thing done to it...so just tryin to get all info i can so i can come back to it when i get to that stage and pick and choose what to do next...after 13yrs stall i figure any progess is good.
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[Lugnutz65]

Originally Posted by lasher78

thanks lugnutz65 for all the info..ur right budget is almost non existent lol. truck been sitring 13yrs with not a single thing done to it...so just tryin to get all info i can so i can come back to it when i get to that stage and pick and choose what to do next...after 13yrs stall i figure any progess is good.
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Lasher,
Does the truck run and drive yet? If not, do that first. The rear panhard bar needs to be custom fit AFTER you lower the truck and the rear is centered again. They make adjustable track bars in the aftermarket, but if you can weld I guess you can make your own. My friend got some parts from Tractor Supply Co and made his own adjustable track bar for CHEAP.

[lasher78]

thanks to all that has posted...keep comments and ideas comin...
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[lasher78]

ok did a search on tj jeeps it said the yrs where 97-06 is this correct, just want to clarify so i know what to ask for at junkyard.
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