Another motor mount/crossmember question....C20

[FLYNAVY30]

Swapping an LS1 and 4L60E into my C20 Suburban. I bought the entire set up (engine, trans, flexplate, torque converter, shortened driveshaft) from a guy who abandoned a '69 Suburban swap project. My questions is, what mounts and crossmember to go with. I know lots of guys are running the dirty dingo mounts since they're adjustable, but with the shortened driveshaft, I should be able to keep everything in the factory location. I was thinking about using the CPP mounts and cross member. Any thoughts or input? Additionally, an issues using mounts that are advertised for C10s? As far as I know the motor mounts are the same between the C10 and C20.

Thanks for the help!

[tinydb84]

There are also the plate style mounts too. I don't think there is any difference between the two. I have a C20 and a C10 (different years) and they look similar.

[FLYNAVY30]

ok thats what I thought, thanks for the help!

[FLYNAVY30]

Anyone running this set up?

http://www.brphotrods.com/installguides/1TKCK.pdf

[jorgensensc]

I ran the dirty dingos on mine. You could always slide it to the stock location so the shortened driveshaft will work. I did use 73+ frame stands and 73+ dirty dingo motor mounts on my '72. Many just because the motor mounts are cheaper and sturdier than the 72 were.
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[tinydb84]

Originally Posted by jorgensensc

I ran the dirty dingos on mine. You could always slide it to the stock location so the shortened driveshaft will work. I did use 73+ frame stands and 73+ dirty dingo motor mounts on my '72. Many just because the motor mounts are cheaper and sturdier than the 72 were.
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Jorgensensc makes a good point. If you are going to be pushing bigger power I would switch them out for the 73+ style