Well..new tires and alignment, STILL veers violently!! HELP! - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

TIMSPEED · 07-16-2003, 05:56 PM

OK, with the new tires on and a new alignment, the car STILL veers left when braking. The guy at the shop said I needed to repalce my pitman arm, bcause it was loose. IIRC, I remember reading something where another forum member was having this sort of problem, and it turned out to be the pitman arm..I checked the brakes last night, the passenger side brake caliper ISN'T frozen, it DID work when I checked it...

TIMSPEED · 07-16-2003, 06:11 PM

Is it possible for the passenger side front brake to not work ENOUGH? I would think that if it's working, it's working...
I'm about to go out and pull the brake pads off and replace em (lifetime warranty) then bleed my system...

phantom dually · 07-16-2003, 10:00 PM

The pitman arm is under alot of stress when braking. Save your time and do it first!!

TIMSPEED · 07-16-2003, 10:45 PM

Hmm, you really think it's the pitman arm?? How hard is that to change?

TIMSPEED · 07-17-2003, 12:37 AM

Here's a picture of my caliper setup...

vycc · 07-17-2003, 02:42 AM

sounds like the 1 caliper is grabbing more then the other

68LSS1 · 07-17-2003, 03:22 AM

Get a couple caliper rebuild kits and some fine emery cloth/wet sandpaper to polish the pistons when you have them apart. Do both sides as it is going to be hard to determine which side is causing the problem. Or the more expensive route replace them. If your vehicle only pulls when braking you'll find your problem here. Even if your pitman arm is bad it wouldn't cause the pull to the SAME side every time (even though the pitman arm is on that side). If it was due to the pitman arm it should pull to the right half the time. Just my opinion (former ASE technician). Does it do it when the brakes are cold? Meaning from the first couple stops? Or does it do after driving it awhile? Does it get worse after the brakes heat up or is it just the same all the time?

TIMSPEED · 07-17-2003, 03:36 AM

It's the same all the time. I looked at my brake pads tonight, and the drivers side pads were GONE! Literally, like NOTHING left..but the passenger side pads were in good shape. I also checked the guide pins, I couldn't push em out with my hand (had to tap em out with a hammer) So 2moro I'll grease the guide pins and change the brake pads...hopefully that'll do it

68LSS1 · 07-17-2003, 03:57 AM

Don't use grease, use some anti-seize. Should be able to find it at any parts store. And keep a eye on it. When was the last time the brake pads were changed? And how many miles a year do you put on it? It sounds like you found the problem, I just want to make sure that the right side is doing its job (i.e. r/h piston froze, l/h piston sticking). If you can jack the front end up (or one side at a time) and rotate the wheel. Then have somebody apply the brake and try and turn the wheel with your 4way/lug wrench. Once your satisfied that the caliper is working have them release the brake and compare that to how it felt before the brake was applied. Make sure to compare l/h to r/h also. Good luck!

VTKidder · 07-17-2003, 08:04 AM

To butt in here if I may, from working at a parts store, I've found that on the late model chevy brake systems, you can pick up a caliper rebuild kit for around $10, but a whole complete reman caliper can be scored for anywhere between $20 and $40. For me it was worth the time, labor of rebuild and peace of mind to just score a set of reman calipers and be done with it versus pulling and installing seals, cleaning the piston surface, etc. Just my $0.02

**lolife99** · 07-17-2003, 08:16 AM

I had the exact same problem happen to me a few years ago. The problem is the brake HOSE that goes to the caliper. It looked fine on the outside, but was collapsed on the inside. This was causing it to send all the brake fluid to the opposite side, making it pull hard to that side. Replace the hose on the opposite side of the hard pull and that should fix it.

sgtjed · 07-17-2003, 02:03 PM

i had the same problem on the wifes minivan,turned out that the caliper on the drivers side was sticking. i put rem calipers on and end of problem.

also by saying the pads were gone on the one side indicates a caliper or brake hose problem.

sounds like you caliper is sticking or has an obstruction in the line on that side that the pads were gone on.

also you might want to get the rotor changed or turned cause if the caliper was sticking the rotor could be warped.

TIMSPEED · 07-17-2003, 03:59 PM

Well, the rotors that are on it, are a lot newer than the brake pads. Here's what I"m gonna do:
1.) Change the pads (lifetime warranty, free swap)
2.) Lube the guide pins
3.) Flush the brakes completely and fill with new Valvoline Stuff

If that doesn't solve my problem, then I'll go from there...
Question: Do I lube the outside or inside of the guide pin sleeves? (Or both!)

cdowns · 07-17-2003, 04:44 PM

when installing the new pads make sure to lightly sand the surfaces of the calipers that slide in and out and lubricate with some brake grease(less than $1) to make sure the calipers slide in and out freely

crazy4chevs · 07-17-2003, 05:54 PM

I had the same problem on a chevy van it was the brake hoses!

stepn67 · 07-17-2003, 07:22 PM

I aggree with front brake lines, happened on my 95 1/2 ton. Passenger side line was either plugged or collapsed and NO fluid was flowing through it. looked fine form the outside.

TIMSPEED · 07-17-2003, 09:34 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by stepn67
I aggree with front brake lines, happened on my 95 1/2 ton. Passenger side line was either plugged or collapsed and NO fluid was flowing through it. looked fine form the outside.

Hmm..but I WATCHED the Caliper piston move in and out when my friend pressed the brakes. (The caliper piston on the passenger side) So...here's what I'm gonna do
1.) Replace the brake pads (Lifetime Warranty)
2.) Replace the brake rotors (2 year warranty, which is up in 10 days!)
3.) Lube the slides WELL

If that doensn't do it, then I'll go on to the next step, which is replacing the passenger side front brake hose (the rubber one) and then bleeding the system...for the most part, this is all a free fix...just costing me the labor (which I'm paying in sweat and busted knuckles, haha)

cdowns · 07-17-2003, 10:07 PM

other things you should check while the trucks up on jackstands are tierod ends pitman,steering arm and balljoints it's a good idea to have the greasegun handy and give them a squirt

TIMSPEED · 07-17-2003, 11:39 PM

Well, the guy said my lower ball joints and my pitman arm is loose. I looked...they're not THAT loose.
I found a reciept, that shows where my brakes were bled last year, when the rear brakes/wheel cylinders were replaced. Soo...I dunno. Would replacing my rotors but NOT my pads, have caused the problem? The guy at AutoZone, said I MUST replace the pads when I replace the rotors...

68LSS1 · 07-18-2003, 12:47 AM

No you don't have to replace the pads when you replace the rotors. I know for a fact some of the automotive manufacturers (dealerships per manufacturers say) do not turn the rotors when you have them change the brakes. Which I agree with. If the pedal isn't pulsating when the brakes are applied, why turn them? It just makes them thinner and easier to warp. I do recommend knocking any glaze off the rotor with a die grinder and a Scotchbrite/3M pad. Let me guess, your lifetime pads are from Autozone and they are trying to get out of warrantying them?

Lippyp · 07-20-2003, 03:25 PM

It is possible for a brake line to be partially obstructed but let enough fluid through to partially apply the brake. This would allow you to see the caliper move but not give enough force to give any braking effort. This happened to me in a Suzuki 4x4 coming down out of the Pyranese mountains in Spain as I braked behind a truck and ended up on the other side of the road. At time my only option was to ream the line out of all the loose rubber, reassemble, bleed and carry on until I could get a new one.

Change both front flexible pipes, bleed and redo the pads as suggested above. The chances are if one pipe is breaking down the other may not be far behind it. I've always looked at brakes as pairs and done the same thing to both sides.

AirMale · 07-22-2003, 06:14 PM

Same problem I had.....CHANGE THE BRAKE HOSES!

stateamind · 07-30-2003, 12:44 AM

you should replace the hoses .. even if they are not visibly worn or leaking. I changed the hoses on my truck first thing when I had the same problem ... cured it right off. The old ones looked fine with no leaks. Be sure to bleed both sides as well.

MOTHERTRUCKERS · 08-02-2003, 09:28 AM

Brake hoses are the FIRST place I look on customers trucks when they complain about pulling to 1 side, 99% of the time thats what it is.

Senor_paco · 08-03-2003, 04:30 PM

Bleed the brakes, that's the cheapest way. then if you wanna work on the calipers, they're abotu $15 each. Don't screw with rebuilding them, it's not worth your time. and you can paint the new ones if you want.

07-16-2003, 05:56 PM	#1
TIMSPEED Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Modesto, CA Posts: 1,321	Well..new tires and alignment, STILL veers violently!! HELP! OK, with the new tires on and a new alignment, the car STILL veers left when braking. The guy at the shop said I needed to repalce my pitman arm, bcause it was loose. IIRC, I remember reading something where another forum member was having this sort of problem, and it turned out to be the pitman arm..I checked the brakes last night, the passenger side brake caliper ISN'T frozen, it DID work when I checked it... __________________ I have a few cars... See Them Here

07-16-2003, 06:11 PM	#2
TIMSPEED Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Modesto, CA Posts: 1,321	Is it possible for the passenger side front brake to not work ENOUGH? I would think that if it's working, it's working... I'm about to go out and pull the brake pads off and replace em (lifetime warranty) then bleed my system... __________________ I have a few cars... See Them Here

07-16-2003, 10:00 PM	#3
phantom dually Project92 SWB stepside Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Louisville KY Posts: 4,792	The pitman arm is under alot of stress when braking. Save your time and do it first!! __________________ 92 C1500 stepside 496 Stroker Competiton Engineering Ladder bars/QA1 coilovers. Dana 60 rear with 4.10 gear and posi. Bonspeed Palisade 20x12 in rear w/335/30/20 and 20x8.5 front w/245/40/20. 5/8 drop with Belltech springs/DJM spindles/drop shocks. WWS Progress thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=140448

07-16-2003, 10:45 PM	#4
TIMSPEED Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Modesto, CA Posts: 1,321	Hmm, you really think it's the pitman arm?? How hard is that to change? __________________ I have a few cars... See Them Here

07-17-2003, 12:37 AM	#5
TIMSPEED Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Modesto, CA Posts: 1,321	Here's a picture of my caliper setup... Attached Images __________________ I have a few cars... See Them Here

07-17-2003, 02:42 AM	#6
vycc Registered User Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Victoria,BC Canada Posts: 125	sounds like the 1 caliper is grabbing more then the other __________________ 1981 GMC Sierra 1/2 Ton SWB 4X4

07-17-2003, 03:22 AM	#7
68LSS1 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Tampa Posts: 1,191	Get a couple caliper rebuild kits and some fine emery cloth/wet sandpaper to polish the pistons when you have them apart. Do both sides as it is going to be hard to determine which side is causing the problem. Or the more expensive route replace them. If your vehicle only pulls when braking you'll find your problem here. Even if your pitman arm is bad it wouldn't cause the pull to the SAME side every time (even though the pitman arm is on that side). If it was due to the pitman arm it should pull to the right half the time. Just my opinion (former ASE technician). Does it do it when the brakes are cold? Meaning from the first couple stops? Or does it do after driving it awhile? Does it get worse after the brakes heat up or is it just the same all the time? __________________ '68 Short Step LS1/T56, Hydratech, Fatman Fabrications Stage III, Baer, Hot Rods to Hell, US Body, S&W, etc

07-17-2003, 03:36 AM	#8
TIMSPEED Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Modesto, CA Posts: 1,321	It's the same all the time. I looked at my brake pads tonight, and the drivers side pads were GONE! Literally, like NOTHING left..but the passenger side pads were in good shape. I also checked the guide pins, I couldn't push em out with my hand (had to tap em out with a hammer) So 2moro I'll grease the guide pins and change the brake pads...hopefully that'll do it __________________ I have a few cars... See Them Here

07-17-2003, 03:57 AM	#9
68LSS1 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Tampa Posts: 1,191	Don't use grease, use some anti-seize. Should be able to find it at any parts store. And keep a eye on it. When was the last time the brake pads were changed? And how many miles a year do you put on it? It sounds like you found the problem, I just want to make sure that the right side is doing its job (i.e. r/h piston froze, l/h piston sticking). If you can jack the front end up (or one side at a time) and rotate the wheel. Then have somebody apply the brake and try and turn the wheel with your 4way/lug wrench. Once your satisfied that the caliper is working have them release the brake and compare that to how it felt before the brake was applied. Make sure to compare l/h to r/h also. Good luck! __________________ '68 Short Step LS1/T56, Hydratech, Fatman Fabrications Stage III, Baer, Hot Rods to Hell, US Body, S&W, etc

07-17-2003, 08:04 AM	#10
VTKidder Registered User Join Date: May 2003 Location: Vermont Posts: 996	To butt in here if I may, from working at a parts store, I've found that on the late model chevy brake systems, you can pick up a caliper rebuild kit for around $10, but a whole complete reman caliper can be scored for anywhere between $20 and $40. For me it was worth the time, labor of rebuild and peace of mind to just score a set of reman calipers and be done with it versus pulling and installing seals, cleaning the piston surface, etc. Just my $0.02

07-17-2003, 08:16 AM	#11
lolife99 67-72 parts collector,… Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Mid-MO Posts: 22,700	I had the exact same problem happen to me a few years ago. The problem is the brake HOSE that goes to the caliper. It looked fine on the outside, but was collapsed on the inside. This was causing it to send all the brake fluid to the opposite side, making it pull hard to that side. Replace the hose on the opposite side of the hard pull and that should fix it.

07-17-2003, 02:03 PM	#12
sgtjed What if? Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Choctaw,Oklahoma Posts: 649	i had the same problem on the wifes minivan,turned out that the caliper on the drivers side was sticking. i put rem calipers on and end of problem. also by saying the pads were gone on the one side indicates a caliper or brake hose problem. sounds like you caliper is sticking or has an obstruction in the line on that side that the pads were gone on. also you might want to get the rotor changed or turned cause if the caliper was sticking the rotor could be warped. __________________ 2002 red extended cab Silverado 2002 Wheatland yellow Suburban

07-17-2003, 03:59 PM	#13
TIMSPEED Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Modesto, CA Posts: 1,321	Well, the rotors that are on it, are a lot newer than the brake pads. Here's what I"m gonna do: 1.) Change the pads (lifetime warranty, free swap) 2.) Lube the guide pins 3.) Flush the brakes completely and fill with new Valvoline Stuff If that doesn't solve my problem, then I'll go from there... Question: Do I lube the outside or inside of the guide pin sleeves? (Or both!) __________________ I have a few cars... See Them Here

07-17-2003, 04:44 PM	#14
cdowns Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: daytonabeach Posts: 22,956	when installing the new pads make sure to lightly sand the surfaces of the calipers that slide in and out and lubricate with some brake grease(less than $1) to make sure the calipers slide in and out freely __________________ 71c-10 350/2004r/4:11 lowered3/4 longbed/dead by hurricane MEANING OF DEATH::::: SOMEBODY ELSE GETS YOUR STUFF DONT BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU THINK TAKE MY ADVISE;I DON'T USE IT ANYWAY

07-17-2003, 05:54 PM	#15
crazy4chevs Registered User Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Des Moines WA. (Kent, area) Posts: 668	I had the same problem on a chevy van it was the brake hoses! __________________ 70 chev c10 swb fleet 72 grill, sb 400, 2/4 drop. 68 chev c10 swb fleet Early classic 4/6 drop with 4wheel disc brakes 9"rear 67-8 buckets tilt and A/C Classic GM Truck Club of Washington .



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07-17-2003, 07:22 PM	#16
stepn67 Junior Member Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Tucson, AZ Posts: 140	I aggree with front brake lines, happened on my 95 1/2 ton. Passenger side line was either plugged or collapsed and NO fluid was flowing through it. looked fine form the outside.

07-17-2003, 10:07 PM	#18
cdowns Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: daytonabeach Posts: 22,956	other things you should check while the trucks up on jackstands are tierod ends pitman,steering arm and balljoints it's a good idea to have the greasegun handy and give them a squirt __________________ 71c-10 350/2004r/4:11 lowered3/4 longbed/dead by hurricane MEANING OF DEATH::::: SOMEBODY ELSE GETS YOUR STUFF DONT BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU THINK TAKE MY ADVISE;I DON'T USE IT ANYWAY

07-17-2003, 11:39 PM	#19
TIMSPEED Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Modesto, CA Posts: 1,321	Well, the guy said my lower ball joints and my pitman arm is loose. I looked...they're not THAT loose. I found a reciept, that shows where my brakes were bled last year, when the rear brakes/wheel cylinders were replaced. Soo...I dunno. Would replacing my rotors but NOT my pads, have caused the problem? The guy at AutoZone, said I MUST replace the pads when I replace the rotors... __________________ I have a few cars... See Them Here

07-18-2003, 12:47 AM	#20
68LSS1 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Tampa Posts: 1,191	No you don't have to replace the pads when you replace the rotors. I know for a fact some of the automotive manufacturers (dealerships per manufacturers say) do not turn the rotors when you have them change the brakes. Which I agree with. If the pedal isn't pulsating when the brakes are applied, why turn them? It just makes them thinner and easier to warp. I do recommend knocking any glaze off the rotor with a die grinder and a Scotchbrite/3M pad. Let me guess, your lifetime pads are from Autozone and they are trying to get out of warrantying them? __________________ '68 Short Step LS1/T56, Hydratech, Fatman Fabrications Stage III, Baer, Hot Rods to Hell, US Body, S&W, etc

07-20-2003, 03:25 PM	#21
Lippyp English Chevy Owner Join Date: May 2002 Location: Shropshire, UK/ Lot, France Posts: 1,848	It is possible for a brake line to be partially obstructed but let enough fluid through to partially apply the brake. This would allow you to see the caliper move but not give enough force to give any braking effort. This happened to me in a Suzuki 4x4 coming down out of the Pyranese mountains in Spain as I braked behind a truck and ended up on the other side of the road. At time my only option was to ream the line out of all the loose rubber, reassemble, bleed and carry on until I could get a new one. Change both front flexible pipes, bleed and redo the pads as suggested above. The chances are if one pipe is breaking down the other may not be far behind it. I've always looked at brakes as pairs and done the same thing to both sides. __________________ Phil '67 C10 long fleet. 350/TH350, 4 bbl Carter, K&N, Dual exhaust, loads of stuff coming soon 2001 S10 Blazer Daily Driver, bone stock 4 door 4x4 with manual transmission

07-22-2003, 06:14 PM	#22
AirMale Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Atlantic City, NJ Posts: 1,073	Same problem I had.....CHANGE THE BRAKE HOSES! __________________ 86 SWB 9.0 LITER T-400-OD 4.11 eaton-4/5 drop Best 1/4 12.51 @112mph no traction

07-30-2003, 12:44 AM	#23
stateamind And you call that a what? Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Dickson, TN Posts: 171	you should replace the hoses .. even if they are not visibly worn or leaking. I changed the hoses on my truck first thing when I had the same problem ... cured it right off. The old ones looked fine with no leaks. Be sure to bleed both sides as well.

08-02-2003, 09:28 AM	#24
MOTHERTRUCKERS Registered User Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: BRADENTON FLA Posts: 3,269	Brake hoses are the FIRST place I look on customers trucks when they complain about pulling to 1 side, 99% of the time thats what it is. __________________ Rest in Peace Ed. Thanks for all the good times.

08-03-2003, 04:30 PM	#25
Senor_paco Registered User Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: San Antonio, TX Posts: 441	Bleed the brakes, that's the cheapest way. then if you wanna work on the calipers, they're abotu $15 each. Don't screw with rebuilding them, it's not worth your time. and you can paint the new ones if you want.

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