c10 lowering and towing

[oldcane]

Just curious about starting on a '65 c10 build. I'd like to lowering it a bit but it still needs to be my truck. Not getting into engine/trans/rear/brakes what I'm wondering is can it be lowered 4" and still tow, say, a car? I do mean on a trailer. I also have a tractor that weighs about 4000lbs. This is just local, in traffic towing. Not running 70mph though mountains.

And just because I know somebody is going to ask, this, when complete will have pdb (hopefully all 4), 350/350 or something close to that, ps and so on and probably electric trailer brakes (bumper pull trailer or tag-a-long for you youngsters).

I'm thinking a 2/4 drop with just springs. Are drop spindles better (so a 2.5/4 drop) for this situation?

Next, is a helper setup needed in some way? Air shocks? Some of those helper-airbag-thingies?

Thanks for your insights.

[LVPhotos]

The best bet is to use rear air bags. You can run with Schrader valves and no compressor. The tractor and trailer will push you over factory GVW. A class 4 hitch would be safer. Drop spindles would net new disks and if going larger rims can get bigger brakes. If you don't short cut lowering parts it will be a better ride and safer one.

[Clyde65]

I tow a small TT with my SWB, I put Discs up front, bags in the rear, trailer brakes and a class III hitch, no issues

[LVPhotos]

Nacho towing Sancho, Portbuilt trucks.
http://www.porterbuiltfabrication.com/?page_id=627

[LVPhotos]

[oldcane]

Excellent guys. Yeah, I didn't mean I would pull with the bumper. That's just what we call that type of trailer. Class III should be ok but I always go ahead and get a class IV.

So the bags just replace the coils right? I know nothing about bags. I did see a set from Early that may be what you're talking about.

http://www.earlyclassic.com/catalog....gory=Drop+Kits

I've heard of porterbuilt. I'm sure if I've heard of them that means they are really high dollar. I'm not high dollar.

[oldcane]

I stand corrected. The porterbuilt looks to be about half of the early. Nice.

[Clyde65]

I have two Firestone 2600 bags, with a schrader valve to put air in it along with some tubing and fittings. Yes, they do replace your coils. You can drill some holes in your frame to route the fittings/tubing or use some "cups" that space the bags away from the frame giving room for the fittings and tubing.

This is my truck with the trailer on, the bags are normally at about 45psi, here they are at about 70psi I think with the trailer.

[Jeff La]

Originally Posted by Clyde65

I have two Firestone 2600 bags, with a schrader valve to put air in it along with some tubing and fittings. Yes, they do replace your coils. You can drill some holes in your frame to route the fittings/tubing or use some "cups" that space the bags away from the frame giving room for the fittings and tubing.

This is my truck with the trailer on, the bags are normally at about 45psi, here they are at about 70psi I think with the trailer.

Did you do a C notch with your bags, Just wondering, may be the way I go.

[oldcane]

That looks great. So what did you do up front? did you go all new or a later model x-member or control arms?

So the bags can drop it 3 or 4 inches and then pump up to stock height?

[Clyde65]

I have 2.5" 71/72 drop spindles and 1.5"ECE drop springs up front., I only changed the spindles/a-arms and steering, not the crossmemeber.

I used the cups because I am not planning on dropping it any more. the cups add about 3 or so inches, so if I did without them, the truck would sit 3" lower than it does in the picture. I can raise mine to right at stock height but without the cups I dont think you could.

If you look at my truck below my name, that is stock ride height before i did th suspension. Also note, the front suspension has been all rebuilt with Moog parts top to bottom, cleaned and painted/powder coated. Also the shocks are all new and I have a dual adjustable panhard bar too.

[oldcane]

You guys have given me some great options. Thanks again.

[chevyrestoguy]

Has anybody used the "Air-Lift" style bags that fit inside of the stock rear coils? I have always been curious how well those things worked. Just pump them up with a shrader valve whenever you planned to haul a load. They might even work to help stabilize and firm up a bouncy ride, which usually comes with 4" or lower drop coils.
http://www.airliftcompany.com/produc...air-lift-1000/

[Clyde65]

That's what I do, with these bags I get a real good ride for a short bed. Better than with dropped coil springs.

[Red4x4]

Great Question, I will be checking back to see some answers.

[Rich 5150 69]

I bought the 4-inch drop rear heavy duty springs from cpp, made a huge differance over the regular springs,

[oldcane]

Originally Posted by Rich 5150 69

I bought the 4-inch drop rear heavy duty springs from cpp, made a huge differance over the regular springs,

That looks about right to me. I'm just getting used to lowered stuff and this to me looks good, should help handling and still allows it to function as a truck. I didn't realize there were HD drop springs out there.

[oldcane]

I emailedDave Porter and he said that these stage 1 bags won't lower it.

"The stage 1 kits are designed to replace the factory coil spring with an air spring. You will need to run a drop spindle and rear lower blocks to get any substantial drop at ride height."

Maybe he thought I meant to sit it on the ground.

[Clyde65]

I did not do a c-notch, I do not plan on going lower than the ~4" I normally run at. the bags are actually only for my occasional towing my trailers. But I do like the rida a lot more tho.

BTW, I had a rice burner co. put my bags and line on. I told them how I wanted it and within a couple hours it was done. I could have done it but I was pressed for time since I was trying to pick up my TT. I have a schrader valve by the license plate to fill or release.

I do strongly suggest an adjustable panhard bar though!

[kieth]

What Clyde said:

I have a 91 suburban front crossmember with stock 6 cylinder front springs, 2.5" drop spindles.

rear 2" lowering blocks on rear and 2600 series air bags. have 2 Schrader valves on lisc plate bracket. 1 Schrader is attached to the air tank we installed on the side of the frame along with 2 air control valves hooked to a 3 way switch on the dash of my gmc. this allow us to carry 100psi of air and adjust if we need to.

The 2nd Schrader valve is a backup which allows direct filling of the bags without going thru the valves and air tank.

here is a link to some pictures:

http://kieth.smugmug.com/Trucks/66-GMC/i-HrvtMh3


How my truck sits now after drop spindles and 2" spacer blocks:

http://kieth.smugmug.com/Trucks/66-GMC/i-FZvzkvZ


how it sat before:
http://kieth.smugmug.com/Trucks/66-GMC/i-w9XC84h

picture of air tank mounted to frame:
http://kieth.smugmug.com/Trucks/66-GMC/i-gqt9LcM


picture of spacer blocks:
http://kieth.smugmug.com/Trucks/66-GMC/i-QhxZCfT


tires on rear 275/70/17 wheels 17" x 9" cragars:

http://kieth.smugmug.com/Trucks/66-GMC/i-dJxggwv

[oldcane]

I'd say that looks fantastic but I liked it when you started.....

[kieth]

Originally Posted by oldcane

I'd say that looks fantastic but I liked it when you started.....

I had already added the air bags in the picture with the train, if left at normal height it would have sat much higher in the rear, so the bags are worth it especially when you go to pull a trailer........Kieth