Starting Issues

[77ChevySharkBite]

Alright fellas it's probably been about 2 weeks that I've been working on my truck. Well here recently about a week ago pulled it in the garage no issues, well tonight I rolled the truck out to crank it up and I got nada, it will spin and spin but not a single time it sounds like it wants to crank over.

I checked my wires to the alternator and battery even checked the voltage and i'm getting roughly 12-14v, I took off one of the spark plugs to see if it was sparking and I couldn't see anything indicating it, I checked all wires to the dizzy and other possible connections, so does anyone have any suggestions?

As always thanks guys its a 77 Chevy with a pretty stock 350

[cadillac_al]

If the distributor is getting 12 volts then it has to be the ignition module. It could be the pick up coil too but that is very rare in my experience. Just look at it to make sure a wire isn't broken.

[77ChevySharkBite]

Sorry for a late response, but yeah I double checked all my wires and nothing is broke or torn by any means.

[killthewabbit]

Sounds like a control module to me.

[77ChevySharkBite]

I apologize for a late response but the control module is where?

[Montync]

Not sure on a 77 but check behind the glove box, also check to see if your grounds are loose. If you have not done so, try getting a longer negative battery cable and ground it to the bell-housing bolt nearest to the starter. I had problems with my truck staring I tightened the cables and grounded the negative next to the starter and fired up faster than before.

[buddy_1]

Pull a plug wire, stick a phillips screwdriver in it and hold it close to a ground or metal bracket. Have someone crank it over and watch for spark. If you still don't see any pull the distributor cap and rotor. Check the rotor for a burnt spot in the center and check the dist cap to see if the button in the center in worn down. The ignition module is in the base of the dizzy. Most part houses can test them for you.

[79Betty]

Were rubber gloves or use a rubber handled screwdriver or something... Learned REAL quick...

[buddy_1]

Originally Posted by 79Betty

Were rubber gloves or use a rubber handled screwdriver or something... Learned REAL quick...

Nah, just get the neighbor that you really don't like to hold it

[wilkin250r]

I also suspect spark.

My test is starting fluid. Spray some into the carb and try to fire it up.

-If it starts for a couple seconds and dies, then it means the engine is ready to run, but you have a fuel delivery problem. Check carb, fuel pump, ect.

-If it doesn't start, it means something in the engine is goofy. On engines where it last ran fine, no catastrophic bang, bent rods, cracked blocks, or other major problems, it usually boils down to a spark issue.

[77ChevySharkBite]

Well thank you for all the responses fellas, I have had quite a hectic few days.

So apparently I have an inaccurate reading of my fuel gauge when it shows 1/4 tank it means its empty. So my follow up question is what is my problem do I need a new fuel gauge or is my sending unit bad?

[79Betty]

Mine did that. Was a pinched wire between frame n fuel line... Gas tank wiring has to be just right for it to read right. Amd even then it bounces around

[77ChevySharkBite]

Thanks 79Betty!

I don't mind so much the bouncing around and that, just I would like a more accurate reading or at least let it work all the way correctly if that makes any sense.

[wilkin250r]

It might be as simple as corroded wires and/or connection.

The fuel gauge is basically a resistance meter, and the sending unit is a resistance. The guage is expecting zero ohms on an empty tank, but a corroded wire or connection could easily introduce several ohms of resistance to the circuit.

To test the gauge, take the wire off the sending unit (a tan wire, I believe) and connect it to a good, clean frame ground. This should send your gauge to dead empty. If it still shows 1/4 tank, than you know the problem is with your gauge or wiring. If it DOES go to empty, then the problem is with your sending unit.

[mrolds88]

I had a problem once with my 77. You could get in, fire it up and drive wherever. Then get in to start and it would not start, replaced everyting in the distributor, everything, including cap, rotor, coil, module, capacitor. Then got a new distributor, plugged it in, crank, fire. moved it and wouldn't run. Finally figured it out. The terminal in the power wire that clips up in the cap was worn. As the vibrations of engine shutting off broke the contact enough that it didn't allow enough power to get the coil to get it up to where it needed to be. Now after I crimped the terminal all is happy.

[willy41]

I've had some intermittent starting issues too. Found a wire close to the solenoid which had broken just at the end of a fusible link. So I spliced in a new wire, but no longer have the fusible link.

It was so dirty and inaccessible I couldn't tell for sure which wire it was (either to the instrument panel or the junction block) but the piece itself had the number 124 on it.

Is it a mortal sin to operate without the fusible link? Thanks.

[77ChevySharkBite]

Cool thanks man!