New to the c10 scene, boosted lsx

[Revorollerr]

First off I just wanna say the layout of this forum is awesome! Very easy to navigate to find the info I needed.

My project is a 71 c10 lwb, I swapped in a heads/cam/intake 5.3 about a year ago when my brother owned the truck. I recently bought it and was going to install a mp112 blower but decided to scrap my lsx foxbody and put the drive train in something worthy of it!

Forged 347 (Ls1 block)
Pro flo xt intake
Pt88
Jakes performance th400
Frozen boost a2w intercooler

I do have a couple questions, I'm hoping to be around 800hp and would like some stopping force so disk brakes in the rear is a must. I know I can utilize Astro or impala rotors but what are you guys using for caliper brackets?

A buddy of mine is giving me a hydro boost setup, is it worth using? I realize it's a cleaner setup but is it worth it otherwise?

Also can a one piece drive line be utilized with a lwb? I'm wanting a street/strip truck, something that I can hop in and take for a cruise and still be able to put a hurting on most of the cars around. That was kinda the reasoning for scrapping the mustang and putting everything in the truck.

And last but not least, I'd like to use my slicks and skinnies from my mustang, does anyone offer a nice conversion kit for 5x4.5 lug pattern? Even if it's just a list of parts I can buy that's fine. I've heard it about wheel spacers to change lug pattern but my past experience with spacers is they are crap and usually snap the studs....now if this is my only option I've been thinking of possibly using arp studs to try and prevent any stud issues. I'd just like to steer clear of them if possible haha

Anyways, I'm waiting on my builder kit from Columbia mandrel bends before I can do anything further really, aside from the battery relocation and what not.

[cableguy0]

The questions will be answered randomly and I might miss something so bear with and Im sure someone will be along shortly to fill in the blanks.
Hydroboost is great constant strong brake assist plus no matter how big a cam you use and how little vacuum you end up with the brakes will always work and work well.
Somebody else will have to help with the brackets. I haven't stayed up to date.
The 2 piece driveshaft is actually pretty strong. The weak point is the carrier bearing and if you use the heavy duty bearing it will put up with a hell of a lot of abuse. A one piece shaft is on the edge of being too long especially when turning a lot of rpm.A lot of driveshaft shops wont make a shaft that long because it will have the tendency to bounce at high rpm which will tear things up in a hurry.
I personally would just look for another set of wheels. You can always reuse the tires however the mustang tires are probably too short for the truck. I wouldn't use wheel spacers under any circumstances. I have seen the sheered off studs and the resulting damage. Its just not worth it. Maybe look for a trade. Mustang drag stuff is real popular and in demand. You shouldn't have a problem selling or trading to get truck stuff.


Btw welcome to the board and get some pictures posted of your stuff.

[Revorollerr]

Originally Posted by cableguy0

The questions will be answered randomly and I might miss something so bear with and Im sure someone will be along shortly to fill in the blanks.
Hydroboost is great constant strong brake assist plus no matter how big a cam you use and how little vacuum you end up with the brakes will always work and work well.
Somebody else will have to help with the brackets. I haven't stayed up to date.
The 2 piece driveshaft is actually pretty strong. The weak point is the carrier bearing and if you use the heavy duty bearing it will put up with a hell of a lot of abuse. A one piece shaft is on the edge of being too long especially when turning a lot of rpm.A lot of driveshaft shops wont make a shaft that long because it will have the tendency to bounce at high rpm which will tear things up in a hurry.
I personally would just look for another set of wheels. You can always reuse the tires however the mustang tires are probably too short for the truck. I wouldn't use wheel spacers under any circumstances. I have seen the sheered off studs and the resulting damage. Its just not worth it. Maybe look for a trade. Mustang drag stuff is real popular and in demand. You shouldn't have a problem selling or trading to get truck stuff.


Btw welcome to the board and get some pictures posted of your stuff.

I will for sure have to do the hydro boost it sounds like, worth it since it's free.
And after searching the driveline topic, I agree with what you said, I'll give the two piece a go. And for the sake of not dealing with the headaches I believe I will sell or trade my mustang wheels for some bigs n littles that'll fit my camaro. After seeing the wheels on Wasted Incomes "family truckster", I'm gonna have to call centerline next week haha. I've never seen a set of spacers last longer then a month. A buddy of mine was doing some roll racing and after filming he pulled off the interstate and his wheel fell off at the first turn. Pretty scary and has made me against them.

[BR3W CITY]

Originally Posted by Revorollerr

First off I just wanna say the layout of this forum is awesome! Very easy to navigate to find the info I needed.

First off, I like your setup

I do have a couple questions, I'm hoping to be around 800hp and would like some stopping force so disk brakes in the rear is a must. I know I can utilize Astro or impala rotors but what are you guys using for caliper brackets?

Check out the generation specific section for your truck. There is usually a brake upgrade reference thread in the FAQ or stickies. Otherwise the suspension section guys may also be of some help. Members like Captain Fab make lots of brackets for this purpose

A buddy of mine is giving me a hydro boost setup, is it worth using? I realize it's a cleaner setup but is it worth it otherwise?

Abso-****in-lutley. They can be a pain initially in terms of lines and fittings and leak checking, but they are pretty robust once setup. I know where to order the internal rebuild kits should any of the small wear parts be an issue. NOTHING puts out the braking force that this thing can. Different versions of the same unit have been used on commercial vehicles stopping much heavier trucks. I will say that the load it puts on the engine can bog a tad if you run a low-lsa cam at a low idle. You might need to bump up the idle a tiny bit, but its a minor tuning issue.


And last but not least, I'd like to use my slicks and skinnies from my mustang, does anyone offer a nice conversion kit for 5x4.5 lug pattern?

You have 800hp, this thought shouldn't exist haha. You will snap anything you put on there.

answers in boldage

[Revorollerr]

Originally Posted by BR3W CITY

answers in boldage

Sounds like the hydroboost is a no brainer, Ill shoot you a pm if I need a kit, Thanks for the input! Much appreciated.

[Andy4639]

Welcome to the board! Would like to see some under the hood pics also.
I'm not going to suggest a set of wheel spacers at all for any vehicle that goes to the dragstrip, but I will say I've had a set on my S-10 now for over a year with no problems. I do have the studs checked everytime I rotate the tires. This truck is a street only. I have them on all 4 wheels to fit the camaro rims on it.
As far as the brakes there are guy's in the suspension section who make the brackets for the brakes and there are companys who have complete kits. Just depends on if your a yard man are like to order them.

[ls1nova71]

Member Captain Fab makes brackets to mount either Impala/Caprice calipers on your 12 bolt, or if you need a park brake he makes a set of brackets to mount 93-97 Camaro calipers. I just bought a ste for the camaro calipers and they are a nice set. He also has hydroboost brackets. I always run hydroboost since you get much better brakes , especially with 4 wheel discs. Here's a link to the brackets I have. Others are in his sig. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=382633

[Revorollerr]

thanks for the link!

Here's a pic of my old setup

[Revorollerr]

I threw the exhaust and intake manifolds on the 5.3 just to see what kinda issues I may run into, all in all looks like it's be a piece of cake...compared to the foxbody haha

[BR3W CITY]

The only areas of frustration are usually manifold fitment, and up front clearance between the accessories, radiator, fans, and tranny cooler or ac evap etc.

With the turbo, the manifold fitment is no longer an issue (just be carefuel where you run the dump, tight clearances to the trans cooler lines and fuel lines can be critical with the heat from the turbo). I'd play a round a little to see where the front stuff is going to fall, but it looks like your on the right track.

[akdg87]

Check out wastedincome's turbo build. If your looking for less fab work maybe look at one of trick performance or kb racing's front mount turbo manifold (they are designed for 99-2013 gm trucks). I was planning on using one for my build but the 67-72 c10 frame is a bit tighter than the newer trucks where the collectors would be at. if you put v-bands on instead of the 3 bolt collector I think it would clear fine.

What are your plans for a fuel system?

[BR3W CITY]

For anyone looking to go turbo, don't bother buying any of the "complete" kits that exist out there. Because of the differences in mounts, manifolds, front accessories etc, most of the "kits" will end up needing so much work that its almost counter productive. "Hot Side Kits" are fine for getting the manifolds and some hard parts, but even then I find very little savings doing it this way.

All of the intercooler and intake piping will need to be fabbed pretty much either way. You can put it together with a master bend kit and then weld it or tac it and have it welded for you. I find that piping and intercoolers are often hugely marked up in kits, and can be had for much less by finding high quality generic components.
I have yet to see any massive advantage from any 1 company yet, in terms of overall power and design. Aside from the hotside piping, most kits have no proprietary components, and the hotside stuff can be modified or fabbed from existing parts. This is the case up until the higher echelons of boost. Once you start needing equal-length large primary stainless manifolds and other big-boost goodies (800+) then it starts to change. It looks like your hot side stuff right now should work fine, just make a crossover/merge to fit the setup and your in shape.

[Revorollerr]

I'm going to fab it up myself, I ordered some stuff from Columbia mandrel bends, cold side will be fabbed up as well which will be interesting since I'm using an air two water intercooler and I'm not sure where I'm putting it yet haha.

I tinkered for a bit yesterday and installed the th400 and 347 so that way once fab is done I can just throw on the turbo and move on to the fuel system.

I'm not sure what I'll do for a tank yet, either a sumped jegs cell or buy a weld in sump for my current tank. I have a Paxton version of an A1000, aero motive boost ref regulator, -8an for a feed and -6an for a return.

[akdg87]

Originally Posted by Revorollerr

I'm going to fab it up myself, I ordered some stuff from Columbia mandrel bends, cold side will be fabbed up as well which will be interesting since I'm using an air two water intercooler and I'm not sure where I'm putting it yet haha.

I tinkered for a bit yesterday and installed the th400 and 347 so that way once fab is done I can just throw on the turbo and move on to the fuel system.

I'm not sure what I'll do for a tank yet, either a sumped jegs cell or buy a weld in sump for my current tank. I have a Paxton version of an A1000, aero motive boost ref regulator, -8an for a feed and -6an for a return.

Wow your manifolds look exactly like mine, 2.5" V-Bands? I think i have less than 200 dollars in my hot side including the down-pipe (i spent more to have it all ceramic coated then building it all.)

I am using a frozen boost A2W inter cooler as well, i honestly don't think i could fit a conventional Air to Air behind my grille. What are you using for the heat exchanger?

Summit has some nice inexpensive sumped fuel cells for less than 200, i used a 18 gallon one for my build. Seriously amazing how much the fuel system parts add up. I know i have easily over a grand in mine, but its done once and its done right.

[Revorollerr]

Originally Posted by akdg87

Wow your manifolds look exactly like mine, 2.5" V-Bands? I think i have less than 200 dollars in my hot side including the down-pipe (i spent more to have it all ceramic coated then building it all.)

I am using a frozen boost A2W inter cooler as well, i honestly don't think i could fit a conventional Air to Air behind my grille. What are you using for the heat exchanger?

Summit has some nice inexpensive sumped fuel cells for less than 200, i used a 18 gallon one for my build. Seriously amazing how much the fuel system parts add up. I know i have easily over a grand in mine, but its done once and its done right.

Yup 2.5" v bands, I should have around $100 into my hot side, I'm just gonna use some cheapo flame proof header paint to keep it from rusting and rap the whole setup to retain some heat.

I had originally just bought the frozen boost 1200hp kit so it has their heat exchanger, tank, pump and intercooler. I may sell the tank and throw a big cooler in the back and plumb it in, get a little more cruise time and keep low IATs.

I have looked at the summit ones but I'm undecided. The tank I have now fits awesome and I could sump it for virtually free. I just need to figure figure out what it's from so I can get a new sending unit,so my fuel gauge will work.


I plan to run a 4" down pipe under the pass side and throw a 4" cutout in, slap on a mbrp muffler and build a "boomtube" style tip to exit before the rear tire. Or just use a 4" dyno max bullet and use the boomtube tip.

[Revorollerr]

I did read wasted incomes build (both k5 and the truck haha) and picked up some ideas. I'm just glad I have so much space to work with. My mustang was a cluster and I was never happy with it's setup.

[Clyde65]

Have you given thought about your rearend handling the 800HP? will a 12bolt handle that kind of HP and torque?

[Revorollerr]

Originally Posted by Clyde65

Have you given thought about your rearend handling the 800HP? will a 12bolt handle that kind of HP and torque?

We'll see, if it blows up I'll throw in a 9".

[Wasted Income]

Originally Posted by Revorollerr

I did read wasted incomes build (both k5 and the truck haha) and picked up some ideas. I'm just glad I have so much space to work with. My mustang was a cluster and I was never happy with it's setup.

I was going to post pics of my captain fab brackets for the rear discs, and my hydroboost setup for you, but it sounds like you already scoped it out

Originally Posted by Clyde65

Have you given thought about your rearend handling the 800HP? will a 12bolt handle that kind of HP and torque?

Yes, it will handle it



Revorollerr, looks like a cool build...I'll be following along. Let me know if you have any questions.

[akdg87]

yeah if you have a fuel cell already, sump it and run it. More money to go to all the incidental parts you never think of and really add up.

+1 on the captain fab brackets. used them on my truck.

[BR3W CITY]

If the 12 bolt is in good shape, and you have name-brand axles in it, IMO it will last a while. That partially has to do with how you use it and what you run for a tire. The truth is, most people I know with over 600hp can't hook for sh!t, and run no risk of blowing up their rear end haha.

If you wanna leave of a trans brake, low psi fatties, and have the driver mod; then I'd start leaving from a lower rpm until I feel how the rear feels after 5-10 runs. You can brake anything with enuff skill

[Revorollerr]

Originally Posted by BR3W CITY

If the 12 bolt is in good shape, and you have name-brand axles in it, IMO it will last a while. That partially has to do with how you use it and what you run for a tire. The truth is, most people I know with over 600hp can't hook for sh!t, and run no risk of blowing up their rear end haha.

If you wanna leave of a trans brake, low psi fatties, and have the driver mod; then I'd start leaving from a lower rpm until I feel how the rear feels after 5-10 runs. You can brake anything with enuff skill

Ya it's gonna need a gear change so I'll just do a full rebuild and see how it goes. It'll be footbraked, no trans brake so it shouldn't put as much stress on it when at the track. Well see how she does haha

[Custom 68]

yep cool build.
I went a smaller T70 turbo on mine so it spools very quickly. I am around 500hp at the rear wheels. I used a log manifold and made the connection with mandrel bent pipe.

[Revorollerr]

Will do Wasted, thanks!


Well I got my stuff from Columbia mandrel bends but I was sick yesterday and have a compressor move taking up the rest of my week and part of my weekend and then I have to swap an engine for employee on our pipeline so I won't be able to touch the truck til next week sadly.

I did however get my stand alone harness today, it looks awesome! I was originally using microsquirt but had issues with it til I recently figured out I was using low impedence injectors instead of high Impedence but it was too late and I already paid for a custom stand alone harness to utilize a gm 0411 so I'll probably stick with it and sell or use the MS on another build.

I'll quit babbling and show some pics of the harness.

[Revorollerr]

Has a very nice, net loom. I don't think I can ever deal with plastic loom again haha.