Rusted roof repair

[Branman1971]

All I can find for roof repair is the roof to windshield piece online. Has anyone found the drip rail parts for the roof all the way around?

[Branman1971]

Another pic

[DPowers]

Don't make them that I am aware.

[brokestudent]

I have thought about just shaving mine off and making it flush. I know it loses some authenticity but I also like a streamline look. Anyone done this, or have you thought about doing that?

[Branman1971]

I thought about it but I'm kinda partial to the drip rail. I looked at a few trucks that did the shave and they do look good. I don't understand why no one makes a roof panel for these series of trucks. You can get them for a 59 and a 67. I think its racial!

[spacedebris]

Not sure if this has the drip rail part or not, cant tell by the pic but its the piece from the roof to windshield for a 60-63



tuckandcarshop.com part number 60-09360



EDIT: I just re-read your post more carefully so I assume you already know about this part. I really should take more time reading before jumping in. LOL

[Softpatch]

Originally Posted by spacedebris

Not sure if this has the drip rail part or not, cant tell by the pic but its the piece from the roof to windshield for a 60-63



tuckandcarshop.com part number 60-09360

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prices did not look bad wonder about fit and shipping ...thanks for the website

[Branman1971]

I have seen that piece for sale but I need the areas above the doors as well. This piece for sale does not have the drip rail and it's the underneath of the brow.

[hemifalcon]

You're looking at a lot of sheetmetal fab work there.. Or--find yourself another truck that want's to donate it's forehead.. That under-brow piece is all that is available--and I think you can get an entire roof for a truck (just the outer skin)--but either way--you're looking at some serious work if you're planning on doing it right. An upper-cab swap would be my option..

[Branman1971]

Thanks Falcon. I did find a roof from a 64 donor. Anyone know if it will work? I'm told a 63 is different but 64 should work. Its only $150 so please let me know guys!

[LT1 Burb]

Ah , you have a 61 so 63 will work, I don't think 64-66 will.

[66 C10 383]

I have the same rust problem on my truck but I'm far from addressing it yet. But I have done some research on it ...

A user on this forum cortcomp removed the roof skin of his truck to install a big back window and it dawned on me ... I could get to the same section that's rusted on my truck and yours. There are easier ways but this way has many benefits, such as the extra insulation he added while the roof skin was off. Here's his write up.

http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...=550931&page=2

Starts at post 36 and continues into page 4 (no it's not that drawn out, he did other things along the way ...)

The part shown above is the only one I can find and it's listed as 60-63 as mentioned. I have no clue as to what is different in this area as a 64-66 (like mine) other than the shape of the windshield. Also, I have no idea as to why they make it for the 60-63 and not the 64-66 trucks ....

You could just patch panel it in without removing the roof skin but there's probably a lot of rust in there that you may/may not be able to access if you were to just patch panel it in.

[hemifalcon]

The '60-'63 truck cabs are the same--'64-'66 are a different style cab design. Take a look at the windshields, A-pillars and doors between the years of trucks--you'll quickly see the differences..

I'm betting the roof skins are the same--but that's probably where the top similarities end..

[66 C10 383]

I know the differences in windshields and doors between the two cabs, I just figured that small section above the windshield would be the same also but there's got to be something different about them ...

[hemifalcon]

Take a picture of the lower portion of the roof eyebrow--my bet is they're the same--but your upper door jambs appear rotten too and so you a-pillars probably are pretty ugly inside...

[Tennypicou1]

I had to use that piece and make the rest

[LT1 Burb]

Look at my build, I just removed the roof off of 3 cabs. I will do it again on any truck I build from here on out. I want to know whats up there and want to re-insulate with dynomat.

[Branman1971]

LT1, I would like to see your build. I might be cutting the roof off a donor tomorrow. The roof is not 100% solid but the areas above the doors are good and I need that the most.

[LT1 Burb]

Just did this today, ready to plug weld.

[LT1 Burb]

Here is the link, if you take your time it is not bad, only took an hour to drill spot welds out but on this roof there is 125 holes I need to reweld now, but its worth the effort IMO.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=544570

[Branman1971]

Should I hold out till I find a complete roof to swap? I'm looking at patch panels now from the current donor.

[LT1 Burb]

Depends on the price and the amount of time you want to spend on it I guess. It is easier to weld up holes that get hidden by seam sealer then to have to fix little pieces that you will have to spend time on.

[Branman1971]

The whole roof is 150 but that was before I got pics. I'm gonna offer 75 for the 2 sections above the doors and I would like the whole roof cause I can use it for other patches but some places of the donor are rotted in the same places mine are.

[Branman1971]

So to remove the roof skin I can grind out the silicone from the drip rail and then drill out the spot welds? Or is the roof skin pinched into something else that I have to pry apart?

[LT1 Burb]

The sealant should just pop out with a screwdriver, and yes you just drill the spot welds and lift it off, no prying needed . I do use a couple of screw drivers and a bar just to gently lift it as I go so I know I didn't miss one.