When to change control arm axles?

[65TRUK]

Hey guys, I'm completely rebuilding the front suspension on a 64 short bed frame (currently a bare frame). Though I have read a lot of articles regarding suspension builds, I have not read any technical comments regarding 'how to know when you should replace the control arm axles'. Note: before I removed the upper control arms I noticed just a little lateral movement of the control arms (probably 1/16 but not more than 1/8 inch) on both sides. Is this movement merely the axle shaft thread play between the axle cap inner treads and the axle shaft threads (which is the true control arm vertical pivot point/s)? I presume this thread play represents two components: 1) initial OEM thread play and 2) normal thread wear over a 50 year period?

I don't want to finish the rebuild and NOT change the control arm axles if I really should do so.

FYI, I'm rebuilding a 65 stepside on a separate 64 frame.

Thanks in advance for your thoughts, experience, tips, advice, technical data, etc.

[sickboy_1456]

I think what your referring to is the control arm cross shafts/bushings. Most of us have had to replace them at one point or another. Not a super difficult task, but definitely worth doing since your replacing everything else.

[Sharps40]

Those rods and bushings are somewhere between 25 to 50 years old. They are under $20 a set uppers and lowers from parts geek.

Replace them as part of your suspension rebuild.

[65TRUK]

Thanks for your imput guys. I appreciate it. The 'Parts Geek' recommendation was very helpful (awesome prices)!

I will say again that my question remains. How does one know when you should replace the control arm shafts? I fully understand that the bushings should be replaced, but it appears to me that the bushings are not weight bearing in anyway. They merely hold the grease in the threaded area which is the true pivot point for the control arm. Though I have now decided (with your encouragement) to replace both upper and lower control arm shafts, I am still looking for an answer to this question (I'm anal about knowing the detail).

Again, thanks for sharing your thoughts and recommendations.

[jtrichard]

that play you have is wear ... when new they are tight.. if they get "to much wear" you can no longer adjust them... they also come in sets you dont just buy the bushings

[Sharps40]

Well, they are weight bearing. The control arm shaft is bolted to the frame and the weight transefers thru the bushings to the control arms to ground....cantelevers.

But, changein em will eliminate slop in your front end. The parts geek ones I just put on my 65 are running fine. I used Advance Auto ones on the 64 and I liked the quality and the price of the parts geek stuff better!

[tincan1966]

If you think about it, that 1/16" movement at the bushing, translates to about 1/8" or more movement at the ball joint end of the control arm, which in turn ends up about 1/4" at the wheel, and that is a lot of movement!

Also, depending on how original you want to be, an option is to convert over to the '73-87 style with rubber bushings that give a little less harsh ride and less "road feel". This does require changing out the control arms to the '73-87 style.
Just an option.

[65TRUK]

Success guys. Together, enough information has been provided to satisfy my curiosity. Much of it merely confirmed what I believed to be logical, but I was interested in what other mech-heads had to say.

So, the shafts and bushings (as a kit) will be replaced (along with the rest of the up front suspension and steering components). Parts Geek looks like the hot tip for everything I'm needing (at a VERY reasonable price). Will probably opt for Moog brand.

I also plan to reuse the original control arms as they are in good shape and already blasted and painted.

I thank you all for taking the time to respond.

[Sharps40]

If the lower ball joints are loose in the lower control arms ya can tac weld em and get one more good run outta the original LCAs.