Unlifting project.

[eighteenninetytwo]

OK I need to start planning the unlifting project for the truck. The actual work I'll try to do myself once I have parts, but before I even start that there are a ton of questions as this would be my first attempt at anything major myself. I am planning to take pics and post them of all of these areas for the experts here to comment on and make suggestions before I start anything.

The areas I THINK I'll need to look at are:

Suspension - will need new springs in front, new shocks all round, new U Bolts possibly all round at least in back. May need new springs in back if the 4" Blocks are integral to the existing springs (how do I figure THAT out?).

Steering - there seems to be a Dropped Pitman arm on the steering to accommodate the current lift.

Drive line - losing a 4 Inch lift, if pythagorus is to be believed, can make up to a half inch difference in the length needed of the rear driveline (ie it has to be shorter. Does the transfer case or the rear axle either mount or have components mounted in such a manner that such a difference can be accommodated, or does this operation require a change of (or to) the drive line?

Are there any other things I've missed here. Will take pics tomorrow and post them for comment / advice.

[Eyegore]

Are you going back to stock height? If it is a 4 inch lift your removing then you pretty much summed up what you need. I did not have to change my pitman when I removed a 6 inch lift. See if there is a suspension shop that makes their own U bolts they were far cheaper to have made, but that was over 20 years ago when I dropped mine.

[68Timber]

The rear blocks are sitting on the axle perch and the springs on top of them, it'll all separate when you get it up in the breeze, cut the u-bolts off, and lower the rear axle. You'll have to check the drive shafts to make sure they haven't been lengthened, I'm not sure if they have to be lengthened for a 4" lift or not but they do need to be checked.

[mickeykreg]

I'd also see what's going on with the brake lines. With a 4" they probably would've had to extended the brake line length to avoid stretching them at full flex. There's prob just drop brackets that can be removed in order to put them back to stock location.

[eighteenninetytwo]

is that rear brake lines or front?? haev some pics but have to email them to myself before posting.

[eighteenninetytwo]

Pics are not good I fear. Two of front suspension and one of back suspension. for some reason steering arm pic didn't come out. Any alarm bells from these?

[eighteenninetytwo]

Here are some pics of the steering arm assembly. Any opinions as to whether I will need to change out components here.

[mickeykreg]

Looks like the stock height steering arm so your good there, but that means the drag link has been running on that angle, which may have prematurely worn out the ends.
I just did the drag link on my K5. If you end up getting new drag link ends Summit has the Moog ends for less than vato-zone sells the cheapies.

[swissarmychainsaw]

How good does this thing go down the road? Does it tend to wander a bit?
I think you put new tires on right?

I agree that the Pitman arm looks stock.
All the front end components are easy to change out. I just did this on my 2wd and I used Rockauto.com (by far the cheapest you will find) and Napa, which actually has stuff in stock for my 1975! bam!

Regarding the brake lines, both the front and rear will be longer for the lift.
(now's a REALLY good time to replace them). Cheap and in stock from Oreillys, but consider steel lines, depending on your budget.

If you are considering selling the lift kit, (if your parking brake works) it will also need to be longer for the lift (you might include the P-Brake lines in the sale).

You have blocks in the rear, but what is lifting the front? All Springs?

You are going to be happy with this!

[eighteenninetytwo]

It does wander when driving straight (or trying to) despite brand new tires. Recently put new brake lines on the front will i have to change them again? I assume I'll have to shorten the parking brake cable when the lift is removed also. Front is spring lift so I have to change them out. What does NAPA have in stock for 75's a sthere is one downtown i found this weekend and I have a 75.

[swissarmychainsaw]

Originally Posted by eighteenninetytwo

It does wander when driving straight (or trying to) despite brand new tires. Recently put new brake lines on the front will i have to change them again? I assume I'll have to shorten the parking brake cable when the lift is removed also. Front is spring lift so I have to change them out. What does NAPA have in stock for 75's a sthere is one downtown i found this weekend and I have a 75.

My 2wd was a mess and new tires and new Pitman & Idler & tie rod ends fixed it.
Originally I was only going to do the Pitman and Idler, but when I was in there taking it all apart I asked myself "why am I not doing all of these while I'm in here?". Napa had the tie rod ends in stock. The local one to me has been really awesome. Nice folks, and they even give me price breaks. It simply shames the local O'reillys.

I assume that you can leave the longer brake lines in.

Having done this kind of stuff for the first time, let me say it's really not as bad as it seems.

[imjeff]

In the rear it is typical to have a small bracket that raises the section of brake line with the tee about 3" above the pumpkin. The steering arm looks stock and I'd leave it alone unless it is bad. Same with the drag link.. The front brake lines are probably stock as well. Not too many people actually change the front brake lines with the lift. Even if they did, unless they rub somewhere, longer is better than shorter. I'd put new shackles on all four corners while you have it apart. They stretch a fair amount under torque and fatigue over time. Any spring shop can hook you up. Front springs are all over. I've left several sets behind over the years so they should be easy to find.

Good luck!

Jeff