1960 Apache10 project

[vintagezx]

Ok, I’ve been waiting until I had a question, but I’ve decided I might save myself some pain by laying out the plan and asking for guidance.

You can see the link to my blog for the gory details, but here is the plan. I have a 1960 Apache 10 that has sat out in the weather for too long. If it hadn’t been my Dad’s truck I would have never tried this. That means I’m making it more work than it should be by not starting off with a good base. I’ll bet I’m not the only one on the list that has done this.

I am slowly pulling the truck apart and have picked up a couple of major parts to make it work. The first was a cab from a 61 that has been in the dessert. I also picked up a core support and inner fenders at the same time. I know I will need to to do some sheet metal work on the cab, but I’m not even going to look to close until the weather is drier and the frame is closer to ready. In the mean time I’m going to get the motor and transmission ready inside where it is warm and wait out the weather.

The original truck had a 235 with a 3 on the tree. It came with out the original engine or transmission and at first I figured I’d get a 350 and drop it in. By chance I picked up a 1975 c10 donor for the front end disc brake conversation. It has a 250 with a 4 speed and It only has 97k original miles. It just had a cracked exhaust manifold and I have a pre 1975 head available. I decided that I like the idea of dropping a 6 back in it and dressing it up. Here’s my Summit Racing shopping list.


As far as suspension, I am planning on 2.5 inch drop spindles and springs and shocks. Not slammed, just take the gap out of the wheel wells.

I have been on the site since November reading and searching. I have found some really good information and I see a lot of knowledge and experience here. I’m tossing out my plan for it to be picked apart. I’m looking forward to the feedback I get.

[vintagezx]

Haven't quite got the picture thing figure out yet. Here is the list.

[Ol Blue K20]

Subscribed and following along

[Trump]

The 500CFM will likely be too big for a stock 250. I would consider it for a 292 I6, but I would think something in the 450 range or less would be more appropriate for a 250. The 500cfm would likely take a lot of tweeking. You might consider running a carb adapter with a weber progressive 2bbl. This is the hot ticket for these.

The best things that can be done on these engines in my opinion are: swapping to a 194 I6 head for higher compression and swapping to a mercruiser marine camshaft (the equivalent of a RV cam).

As for the chrome stuff. it is going to pit and rust quick and to me it is no better than painted tins. If you are going for dress-up save up for the aluminum stuff and get the benefits of a better more rigid sealing surface. $ that would be spent on Chinese chrome could be better spend on go fast parts.


Here's a couple good resources for I6 engines:
http://www.langdonsstovebolt.com/
(you can get cam, aluminum parts, weber, etc from here, plus Tom knows his I6s and you can call him up and ask him stuff. You might also check out his cast headers. They just look "right" and perform as good if not better than tube headers)

www.inliners.org
(for everything I6)

www.stovebolt.com
(for I6 specific GM trucks)

Chevrolet Inline Six-Cylinder Power Manual: Leo...(a great book for building power and economy in I6 chevy engines)

Hope this helps and gives you some other options. Will be looking forward to an update.

[vintagezx]

Hey Trump, thanks. That's the kind of info I'm looking for. It seems like for every question I have I find three different answers.

I wondered about the cfm on the carb. The calculator I used put it in the upper 300 range, but I don't know what will happen if I put one that's to big in place. What's the cause and effect? I'm looking for good fuel mileage and I know the 4 barrel has smaller mains. I've seen the holly 4160 at 450 cfm, but thats still a bit high. I'm open to the 2 barrel. I'll keep digging

I was thinking about powder coating the side covers and valve cover. If it runs to much maybe I'll paint for now and replace them later. I like the look of the aluminum and now maybe I can justify the cost.

I had looked at headers with a little sticker shock so I flagged the cheapest option, but I like the look of the cast from Langdon's site and may go that way.

The head I was suppose to get may have evaporated on me. With that in mind I'm going to look at your suggestion and see what I can find.

I'm someone that usually likes to put things back together the way they were originally made. I'm really going to have to step out of my comfort zone on this build. Guess it's time to think outside the box.

[Trump]

There's a million ways to skin a cat. You will always have different opinions. No one way is always right as you'd expect.

Too much fuel and it will have a tendency to either run really rich, possibly get cylinder wash, and there is also potential for fuel puddling in the bottom of the intake which could be a fire hazard. the last two are rather extreme cases, but still possibilities.

You could still go w/ the 500 edelbrock. You might be able to get it tuned in with one of Edelbrocks Calibration kits down to where you need it.

Another suggestion I would have is that if you do go with a 4bbl, consider a Clifford intake rather than the offenhauser. The Clifford has bigger intake runners and can handle more air which might be more friendly for the 500cfm and doesn't have the hard 90deg bends going to the front and rear port like the offy. Also if you plan on driving the truck a lot and in cool weather, make sure you add the heat plate to either.

The head isn't a big deal, neither is the cam, they would just help a bit. You should be able to get up and running good with intake, carb and headers to start and then worry about the other stuff later if you want more juice out of it.

Go hang out at inliners.org They have tons of knowledge on these topics and can help you along the way.