Disc Brakes on 65 C20

[BAMO]

Ok, I've searched and searched and think I know where I stand, but just want to make sure before I buy the wrong parts.

I have spindle, rotors, inner/outer bearings,dust caps, dust shield off of a 73-87 c20.

I need the following as far as I can tell.

1) upper and lower ball joints
2) calipers
3) master cylinder/prop valve
4)inner/outer tie rods and tie rod sleeves.

Some questions.

a) the ball joints that I need for the 73-87 spindles will work on the earlier control arms, right?

b) I'd like to skip the power booster. No real issue on going manual power brakes, right?

c) If I go manual power brakes, do I need to do anything to my existing hardlines as I already have a dual MC? Can I just reuse those?

Am I missing anything or is this about it? Anything to watch out for?

Thanks in advance.

[siggyfreud]

Not quite sure I understand what you mean by"manual power brakes." Can you elaborate?

[BAMO]

Originally Posted by siggyfreud

Not quite sure I understand what you mean by"manual power brakes." Can you elaborate?

Typo, I meant manual (no power).

[tincan1966]

I've run manual disc brakes an a lot of vehicles in the past. There's not difference in the amount of braking you get. The only thing a power booster does is make the pedal easier to push.

In it's true definition, they are called "power assisted brakes", which means they are easier to operate. Much like "power assisted steering", does change how it steers, just makes it easier.

And yes, the upper '73-87 baljoints will fit your '65 control arms.
The lowers will be tighter to press in as the '65 ball joints have a 2.292" press in diameter and the '73-87. are 2.301", so a little filing may be required.

As far as your brakes line, if you've already got them split and they are in good working condition, I see no reason to replace them. Hard to make a suggestion here, since I don't know the condition of the parts. But for a technical reason, no you shouldn't need to.

The only area you didn't address was the steering. What are you planning for the steering linkage?
The size of the threads and the taper of the spindle hole are different and should not be interchanged.
I would recommend you get the steering linkage complete from wheel to wheel, from the same donor you got the spindles from, replace the worn parts as required and change it out, making it easer in the future to get parts.

[BAMO]

That clarifies thank you.

Originally Posted by tincan1966

The only area you didn't address was the steering. What are you planning for the steering linkage?
The size of the threads and the taper of the spindle hole are different and should not be interchanged.
I would recommend you get the steering linkage complete from wheel to wheel, from the same donor you got the spindles from, replace the worn parts as required and change it out, making it easer in the future to get parts.

As far as the steering goes, I was going to get the tie rods and sleeves from CPP. I figured that would work to replace what I have and get it compatible with the 73 spindles. Am I missing something?

[tincan1966]

Originally Posted by BAMO

That clarifies thank you.



Do they offer steering parts for the C20-30? Most of what I've seen are c10 stuff and it won't interchange.

As far as the steering goes, I was going to get the tie rods and sleeves from CPP. I figured that would work to replace what I have and get it compatible with the 73 spindles. Am I missing something?

Just for me, personally, I do not like using the conversion tie rod ends - you end up with 1/2 one thing and 1/2 another for parts. I would just install all of the newer steering, that way everything takes the same vintage of parts.

Not real sure you can install a flatshaft lower control arm shaft in the '73+ control arms. The '65 should have steel bushings and the '73+ will have rubber and they secure differently in the control arms. I may be wrong, but if it can be done, awesome!

[BAMO]

Just to bring this to a close:

Since I also have the upper and lower control arms off the 73-87 with ball joints in them that appear in good shape, my plan is to just replace the whole control arm with the ball joints.

On the lower, arms, since I have a flat shaft on the truck, I'll replace the shaft on the donor with the flat shaft on the truck.

So, that done, I am basically down to getting some tie rod ends/sleeves, calipers and a master cylinder.

All told the conversion will cost me about 350 or so (and could do it cheaper if I went to the junkyard for the mc, tie rods and what not but will just get those from CPP).

[bmur66]

i am planning on taking this route. It's more expensive but...I like shiny stuff

http://www.performanceonline.com/63-...-deluxe-8-lug/