roof seam sealer how to's an what not? plus tranny linkage.

[lha1992]

Hi all. I have a 1965 c10 I'm gearing towards replacing the roof seam sealer on to prevent future rust an what not from forming. It is cracked pretty bad but luckily no rot yet but being in Seattle gotta act. Anyways what do you guys do when redoing your seam sealer on the roof? Do's an don'ts? What kinda sealer do you use?

Also my truck originally came with a powerglide an auto column from the factory an I'm sealing out the original powerglide for a TH350 an what did y'all do in terms of the shift linkage? Trying to figure something out.

Thanks!

[chuckmc8]

I buy 3M Seam sealer at Autozone (around $15 per tube) this stuff works great. Its in their paint section

[slorio]

Clean out the gutter, apply epoxy primer, then apply two part urethane self leveling seam sealer like this:

http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/m...gory_Code=JASS

I put tie wraps in the slits that drain the gutter so the seam sealer wouldn't clog them. Once it set up, I pulled the tie wraps. Some folks fill the gutter to the top so the water runs over and can't settle there. The trick with the self leveling seam sealer is to squeeze it in during one pass. When you come back around it will have started to set up. Self leveling leaves the sealer as smooth as glass. Once it sets up you can paint over it.

Hope this helps.
Regards,
Steve
New Orleans

[chevyrestoguy]

I've seam sealed lots of stuff, but never the rain gutter area of the '60-'66 cabs. The rain gutter rises about 2.5" in the rear. Does the "step-up" section in the rain gutter (above the B-pillar) cause any issues with the self-leveling sealer? I'm wondering if it would want to sag and droop down while it's setting up. I need to reseal my gutter and was wondering if I need to be concerned about this. Some seam sealers set up way quicker than others, and a slow drying sealer could cause an issue.

[WhippinSaw]

The maxim was easy to use and lays flat. Saw the product from a post from markeb01. From the school of hard knocks, use as little material as possible and take your time, at the same time ensuring the seam is completely covered. I came on strong down the slope and had to drill out the gutter hole. The material will go where you want it, just as long as you don't add to much material and the less material will set up fast. I also used so much material in unneeded areas that I ran out of material with less than a foot to go. So one tube will do ya if you go slow.

[61_FL_Apache]

Nice job!! Is your gutter complete filled or almost filled?

[crossland1962]

Is there any miracle tool to get the seam sealer out? Or is it just chip,grind,wire brush??? Since PO filled in seam with BONDO!!!!!!!!!!!

[rideblue00]

As far as digging it out, i flattened a 1/8 pc of welding rod and ground it into a mini-chisel. Lotta digggin! I used a 3m Self leveler and it worked fine on the slope going around to the back.

[WhippinSaw]

Originally Posted by 61_FL_Apache

Nice job!! Is your gutter complete filled or almost filled?

Some places were filled more than others, around the curve by the windshield is a little thicker than the long runs which are down lower. I went to fast around the turns and ended up with more material there. You can only tell if I pointed out. It looks good and it will never leak.

Originally Posted by crossland1962

Is there any miracle tool to get the seam sealer out? Or is it just chip,grind,wire brush??? Since PO filled in seam with BONDO!!!!!!!!!!!

Wire brush on a drill will clear the gutter out.

[earl84]

Don't use the self-leveling stuff on a windy day. I had a driveway with blue dots for a long time!

[markeb01]

Also jack up the truck if necessary to level the truck as much as possible so the self leveling sealer can use gravity to flow where you want it.

[lha1992]

So I've been reading around an as some of you posted earlier the self leveling sealer is pretty good by evercoat correct? Now as far an cleaning an prep work can I use my grinder with the wire wheel on it to take it to bare metal an clean it up?

What kind of epoxy primer should I use? Now I epoxy prime then apply the sealer then paint my satin black back on which is what my truck is painted an that should be it right?

Do any of you guys have any suggestions about my shift linkages for the TH350 since I'm going from a powerglide?

[markeb01]

Originally Posted by lha1992

So I've been reading around an as some of you posted earlier the self leveling sealer is pretty good by evercoat correct? Now as far an cleaning an prep work can I use my grinder with the wire wheel on it to take it to bare metal an clean it up?

What kind of epoxy primer should I use? Now I epoxy prime then apply the sealer then paint my satin black back on which is what my truck is painted an that should be it right?

Do any of you guys have any suggestions about my shift linkages for the TH350 since I'm going from a powerglide?

On my original sealer I chipped most of it out with a small screwdriver and then brought the entire gutter to bright metal using a wire wheel. I used PPG epoxy primer simply because it was the brand my local paint shop carried. A major benefit of the Evercoat Maxim seam sealer it is uses a conventional caulking gun.

Here are some shots when the sealer was first applied:





This was covered with John Deere Blitz Black, and shows no signs of change or deterioration 5 years later.

Since your gutter is filled with Bondo, I'd suggest going easy with any metal tools for chipping/scraping and use a hand drill for wire brushing, not an angle grinder. The gutter may already be thin or perforated (hence the Bondo), and being too aggressive may require more extensive repair.

On the shift linkage, are you looking for a floor shift recommendation, or a method to retain the column shift?