OOOPS...How would you fix this?

[Mater/10]

Heyguys!

Recently i replaced the ujoints in my 64' and broke of one of the strap hold down bolts in the pinion ...how can i fix this?

Drill it out carefully?

Drill then tap it ?

I Really need some help on this one fellas

[Mater/10]

[Clyde65]

lots and lots of WD and then drill it and easy out

[benwah]

Before you drill use a center punch so when you do drill you will be in the center of the broken bolt. Otherwise the drill may wander to the lowest point and damage the threads.Its also good practice to chase the threads with a tap after you get the broken bolt out.Use pb blaster and cutting oil. Take your time. Good luck.

[66chevy43]

Originally Posted by benwah

Before you drill use a center punch so when you do drill you will be in the center of the broken bolt. Otherwise the drill may wander to the lowest point and damage the threads.Its also good practice to chase the threads with a tap after you get the broken bolt out.Use pb blaster and cutting oil. Take your time. Good luck.

I second that what benwah said! Use a screw extractor bit/bits you can find at most hardware stores or automotive. Even if you mess up the treads you can still fix it on extreme case. Some will come right out and some will try your patience and that's when you take lunch and come back to hit it again. Do a search on the wed for remove a broken bolt and that will give you a good idea. Good luck!

[63burban]

You must be really strong or you have the wrong bolts. I have never seen this situation before.
Is the bolt flush with the surface of the casting or snapped off down inside?
If it's snapped off about flush you can weld a washer over the bolt, then weld a nut or something you can grab a hold of with a vise grip onto the washer. If it's down inside, it may not be very tight so you may be able to build the bolt up with weld and remove it in a similar fashion. If you don't get everything real hot the weld won't stick to the yoke because it's cast iron. A tiny punch is possible also, using the punch to turn out the bolt. Drilling is risky, the bolt should be real hard it will be difficult to keep the drill on it and you can ruin the yoke. You could just replace the yoke if the situation is bad enough.

[benwah]

I'm a mechanic at a large factory. We get small problems like this once twice a week. Just use a good punch and a new drill bit. You shouldn't have a problem. Heating the housing would help too. They can be a pain in the @ss sometimes . Don't hurry that's how you make mistakes. Make sure you have the right size drill bit for the easy out you plan on using.

[donthekawguy]

If your lucky it might not be tight. If not spray with lube, get a small chisel tap on it so it makes a grove in the bolt and back it out. It will work if the broken part is not tight. My son broke off a caliper bolt and thats how we got it out.

[Lowl!f3]

Take the yolk off. put it in a vise and dril smaller then the bolt from the backside. It will come out while drilling it because of heat and the direction the drill bit is turning.

[1971 GMC SHORTY]

Was A Chevy Dealer Trained Wrench 25!Years use a Left Handed Drill Bit It Will Drill Out And Unscrew At Same Time

[Mater/10]

Thanks guys! ill start with the left hand bit first,the if that fails proceed with each suggested process till its out or replaced

[Lowl!f3]

Originally Posted by Mater/10

Thanks guys! ill start with the left hand bit first,the if that fails proceed with each suggested process till its out or replaced

what I said was the same thing but in reverse. Because you may not find a left handed bit.

[markeb01]

The broken stub appears to be down inside. If you haven't started yet I'd invest in a cheap Harbor Freight transfer punch set for 10 bucks:

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalog...sfer+punch+set

Pick the biggest punch that will slide into the hole, and it will put your punch dimple absolutely in the center of the bolt, so you don't start drilling off center.

[luvbowties]

Originally Posted by markeb01

The broken stub appears to be down inside. If you haven't started yet I'd invest in a cheap Harbor Freight transfer punch set for 10 bucks:

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalog...sfer+punch+set

Pick the biggest punch that will slide into the hole, and it will put your punch dimple absolutely in the center of the bolt, so you don't start drilling off center.

Here's a strong 2nd on mark's suggestion. Will also be a valuable, useful addition to your toolbox!
Sam

[cg285]

center punch it,
drill it,
tap and ezyout into it
snap off the ezyout
get a case of beer

[chevyrestoguy]

Originally Posted by cg285

center punch it,
drill it,
tap and ezyout into it
snap off the ezyout
get a case of beer

That's what usually happens. I have about 50% success with EZ-Outs.

[donthekawguy]

Any update?

[Mater/10]

no update yet, Been workin like the devil for a days pay haha. i hope to get it done tomorrow before work at 10am

[Old Truck Man]

What I would do is pull the yoke off and throw it away. go out back and get another good used one from my hoard. I have several 6 hole rearends that I took out. I commonly on leaf spring trucks from 64 thru 72 change the complete rear end to a five hole out of a 73 up pickup. I also change the complete front assembly (crossmember disc brakes tie rod,s ect to the later five hole setup. It all unbolts .

[Mater/10]

I had a 5 lug 10 bolt under it , but im a tad purist haha so i ripped it out and sold it for 40$ bought me a 70' 6 lug axle and swapped it in.