Mechanical clutch and header clearance?

[Pillow]

I know there are a gazillion header threads out there, but none that I could find addressed mechanical clutch linkage issues...

Does anyone out there run a mechanical clutch out there have some insights? I figure a few folks wanted to stay with 4 speed Muncies or T5 conversions... Maybe even a 3 speed left in the mix

I will be running the Scoggin Dickey LS mechanical mounts. Again only kit I have found for this. Behind it will be a T5.

Any insight is greatly appreciated!!!

Hopefully with the long weekend I can get the motor placed in to take a look at clearances... And post a pic.

[Pillow]

FWIW here is a good tech article on old transmissions on the LS engines.

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...3/viewall.html

[crazy longhorn]

I used Hooker street rod shorties #2312 (244.00 in Jegs site), & a set of tubes from Speedway # 91013386 (stainless tubes/mandral bent), for $90. You can also get them in mild steel, for about $40. All fit & cleared the mechanical linkage on my truck. Longhorn

[Pillow]

Originally Posted by crazy longhorn

I used Hooker street rod shorties #2312 (244.00 in Jegs site), & a set of tubes from Speedway # 91013386 (stainless tubes/mandral bent), for $90. You can also get them in mild steel, for about $40. All fit & cleared the mechanical linkage on my truck. Longhorn

Perfect!!! Thank you so much for the info. Glad to see I am not the only one who is not a hydraulic fan.

I will keep everyone posted on how it turns out... Just please be patient.

[crazy longhorn]

You can also use a 55-57 car bellhousing....I found 1 with the top bolt hole, to bolt with 6 bolts on the block (it was a 50 dollar bill locally). This bell also has a boss on the side, drilled & tapped for the pivot ball & bracket. The bracket , I had to fabricate & note that the mounts are different. It also takes a little die grinder work, in the starter area, to fit the LS style starter. I run an auto trans crossmember under the trans. Longhorn

[71chevystep4x4]

Originally Posted by Pillow

Perfect!!! Thank you so much for the info. Glad to see I am not the only one who is not a hydraulic fan.

I will keep everyone posted on how it turns out... Just please be patient.

I would have gone hydraulic, but was on a tight budget and happen to have a welder and a lot of spare time. You can get a billet bracket that bolts to your bellhousing and runs along the side of the block that holds the pivot ball, but I just fabbed up my own and it works great. I'll see if I can find a pic of it.

[solidaxel]

Originally Posted by Pillow

FWIW here is a good tech article on old transmissions on the LS engines.

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...3/viewall.html

Well now that seems to cover it all !!
I guess I have not "installed: all the parts but I am going to need alot more than the old parts I have
Thanks for the link

[71chevystep4x4]

pivot ball bracket

[crazy longhorn]

Very nice!....looks like you opted for the aluminum bell? Did you run the same flywheel that I used? (sachs part, with the metric pressure plate bolts). Longhorn

[71chevystep4x4]

yeah I got a aluminum bell because years ago when I swapped a small block in replacing the straight six, I had to modify it for the starter to work, along with a number of other things I was correcting that had to be done to fit the big block I had in it. So I was just starting over for the new set up. And yes, I ran the Sachs NFW1050 flywheel, with the centerforce dual friction clutch left over from the big block that only had about 8000 miles on it.

[crazy longhorn]

I used the same flywheel, with metric (ARP bolts)....it said it was a NO/NO, in the read, to use the same holes, with the gen I clutch set up? I did that, & will note that 3 of the bolt holes fit tight, with the 10 mm bolts? the other 3 need to be drilled/or reamed 1/64 ", or basically .015-.016 oversized? The 1st 3 locate the hat....same as the gen I My 5.3 has a little buzz @ idle, due to the urethane mounts...no shake, even buzzed to 5500? Longhorn

[71chevystep4x4]

I read that as well, but tried it anyway because no one really had a straight answer if it would actually make any difference. Plus with the way it centered up with just the three that didn't need drilling, I really didn't see how it could be centered any better, not to mention I ran it by the guy that surfaced my flywheel, and he didn't feel it would hurt anything, and didn't even think it needed to be balanced. So far so good, nice and smooth with no vibrations.

[71chevystep4x4]

Not sure about the buzzing your talking about???

[crazy longhorn]

Tin vibes, from the urethane mounts, the 383 had the same feel but more noticeable. The mounts are just a little harsher than the rubber stockers? Longhorn

[Pillow]

Some long weekend updates!

Ditto you all on the 1050 flywheel and pressure plate. 3 needed drilled a bit. LS3 pilot bearing. Everything bolted up perfectly! I have the Astro clutch and stock 71 pressure plate. Again for a T5.

Motor fit in perfectly which was a nice win.

The bad: the Scofgin Dickey bracket didn't match my bell housing. My lower bolt hole is about 2 inches backseat from the top one. So I need to see of SD has a different part or I'll need to make my own.

Fwiw 05 Avalanche headers fit perfectly wo hitting the frame rails. But get in the way of the mech linkage, which I expected.

... More to come!

[crazy longhorn]

Originally Posted by Pillow

Some long weekend updates!

Ditto you all on the 1050 flywheel and pressure plate. 3 needed drilled a bit. LS3 pilot bearing. Everything bolted up perfectly! I have the Astro clutch and stock 71 pressure plate. Again for a T5.

Motor fit in perfectly which was a nice win.

The bad: the Scofgin Dickey bracket didn't match my bell housing. My lower bolt hole is about 2 inches backseat from the top one. So I need to see of SD has a different part or I'll need to make my own.

Fwiw 05 Avalanche headers fit perfectly wo hitting the frame rails. But get in the way of the mech linkage, which I expected.

... More to come!

Good deal, on the"so far ' fit! I don't think you will find a set of headers , or manifolds to fit your mechanical linkage....other than the Hooker shorties mentioned...not my trick, I cannot take credit? 71chevy step4x4, showed it to me...(thanks bro) Longhorn

[71chevystep4x4]

I had my engine in and out about 8 different times before she stayed in permanently, just more proof that each swap is different.

[71chevystep4x4]

Its truly amazing how many people don't run mechanical clutch linkages, and aren't aware of those headers

[crazy longhorn]

Well, to think about it....if it were not for budget, I would have gone hyd on the clutch? It is a better way to go....just too bad that the header manufacturers, do not cater to us "old school " boys? Longhorn

[Pillow]

Header order placed... Maybe next weekend more progress

Also I ordered the Scoggin Dickey SDCBV which may fit my truck bell housing better. The car bell housing uses SDCB perfectly.

[crazy longhorn]

Best of fun on the project, bro....any issues, post em up? There are many good guys here to help Longhorn

[Pillow]

Headers arrived and fit perfectly with the mechanical linkage.

The SDCB and SDCBV do not work with the truck bellhousing. More to come on that as I will have to break out the welder.

Also waiting on a T-5 mainshaft, as mine was toast on the T-5 rebuild. I can take some mock up pics when all the pieces are here.

More to come, but I am hoping for a big weekend!!!

[Pillow]

Better late than never! None of the Scoggin Dickey barckets work for the truck bellhousing

I ended up making one like 71chevystep4x4 did.

Right now I have to trim down the stock cross-shaft for the linkage as the rear mounts are pushed to the passenger side by about 1/2".

[Pillow]

The clutch linkage cross-shaft is made out of kryptonite!!!

All i need to do is open the 7/8" center out 1/2" in length for the block pivot... Three bits later no dice (Irwin Bosch and misc bits dead). This is in a drill press as well doing it proper!!! Really pissing me off. At this rate it would have been cheaper to go to a machine shop!

I guess it is quality '71 steel

[crazy longhorn]

Originally Posted by Pillow

The clutch linkage cross-shaft is made out of kryptonite!!!

All i need to do is open the 7/8" center out 1/2" in length for the block pivot... Three bits later no dice (Irwin Bosch and misc bits dead). This is in a drill press as well doing it proper!!! Really pissing me off. At this rate it would have been cheaper to go to a machine shop!

I guess it is quality '71 steel

You will never touch that tube, with backyard tools....trust this crazy old man, I have tried it! 2 choices...machine service, or you may opt to set the pivot ball closer to the block? My Ls did not have any clearance issues there? Weld a pc of 3/4" plate steel, to the back side of the bracket....you can make it nice /round. Just punch it out on a hole saw, the countersink it where it needs to be....Longhorn