upgrading to 700r4

[dwlambert1701]

What do I need to get if anything to put a 700r4 to my 283 SB. Thanks

[bj383ss]

It will bolt right up. All you will need is a TV cable bracket to work with your carb. Bowtie Overdrives is your friend for 700R4 info and parts. http://bowtieoverdrives.com/index.shtml

[Captainfab]

This X100

Originally Posted by bj383ss

It will bolt right up. All you will need is a TV cable bracket to work with your carb. Bowtie Overdrives is your friend for 700R4 info and parts. http://bowtieoverdrives.com/index.shtml

Bolting the trans into your truck and connecting the driveshaft, shifter and cooler lines is relatively easy and really no different than with a TH350.

The correct TV cable bracket and geometry and the adjustment to achieve proper line pressures is the absolute most important with the 700R4. If not done correctly you will burn up your trans in a short time. There are many, many, many threads in the 'Engine and Drivetrain' section of this forum on exactly how to setup the 700R4

[Trump]

I just got through this conversion and wish that I hadn't done it.

It depends on what you are going for, but in my opinion, the cost and effort isn't worth the reward.

I have a '63 SWB (sbc 350 w/ edlebrock carb). I had to switch the tailshaft housing of the 700R4 to a caprice style so that the mount and pan would clear where the parking brake is supposed to be. I had to completely reverse (rebuild) the parking brake mechanism to work flipped upside down so it would mount under the frame rails and not interfere with the trans housing. The driveshaft had to be cut. I had to put in another trans x-member. Bought about $120 worth of brackets and a universal TV cable, plus another $100 for the TCI lockup kit. You will like have to convert to speedo drive and driven gears and know your set up to order the right tooth numbers. Another $60 or so for those parts. Lots and lots of hours making adjustments and setting everything right with a pressure gauge.

With the cost of the trans and all the extra junk you have to buy to get it all to work right you are likely going to be in the $1000+ range with even a used trans. Figure closer to $2k-$3k if you go with a rebuilt or performance 700R4.

When it was all said and done, I'm still not very happy with the conversion. If you are after a cruiser with soft shifts it's fine, but if you like firm performance type shifts and shifts at specific rpms, plan on spending even more money and time on a shift kit, governor calibration weights and springs, converters, etc. It's just a lot of time and money to spend on a conversion to save a little mileage on a hobby vehicle that in my case won't save enough fuel to justify itself over time anyway.

If was to go back and do it again knowing how much time and money I would be sinking into it, I would have put in a manual 5spd instead. In fact, I'm so unhappy with the 700R4 I am actually still contemplating the manual.

[66Submarine]

Originally Posted by Trump

I just got through this conversion and wish that I hadn't done it...

...If was to go back and do it again knowing how much time and money I would be sinking into it, I would have put in a manual 5spd instead. In fact, I'm so unhappy with the 700R4 I am actually still contemplating the manual.

Manual transmissions FTW!

[padresag]

Originally Posted by Trump

I just got through this conversion and wish that I hadn't done it.

It depends on what you are going for, but in my opinion, the cost and effort isn't worth the reward.

I have a '63 SWB (sbc 350 w/ edlebrock carb). I had to switch the tailshaft housing of the 700R4 to a caprice style so that the mount and pan would clear where the parking brake is supposed to be. I had to completely reverse (rebuild) the parking brake mechanism to work flipped upside down so it would mount under the frame rails and not interfere with the trans housing. The driveshaft had to be cut. I had to put in another trans x-member. Bought about $120 worth of brackets and a universal TV cable, plus another $100 for the TCI lockup kit. You will like have to convert to speedo drive and driven gears and know your set up to order the right tooth numbers. Another $60 or so for those parts. Lots and lots of hours making adjustments and setting everything right with a pressure gauge.

With the cost of the trans and all the extra junk you have to buy to get it all to work right you are likely going to be in the $1000+ range with even a used trans. Figure closer to $2k-$3k if you go with a rebuilt or performance 700R4.

When it was all said and done, I'm still not very happy with the conversion. If you are after a cruiser with soft shifts it's fine, but if you like firm performance type shifts and shifts at specific rpms, plan on spending even more money and time on a shift kit, governor calibration weights and springs, converters, etc. It's just a lot of time and money to spend on a conversion to save a little mileage on a hobby vehicle that in my case won't save enough fuel to justify itself over time anyway.

If was to go back and do it again knowing how much time and money I would be sinking into it, I would have put in a manual 5spd instead. In fact, I'm so unhappy with the 700R4 I am actually still contemplating the manual.

using the oem style powerglide - t400 rear trans mount would have solved some of your problems mounting and for emerg brake.



ron

[65Gregg]

Dang it sounds like somebody needs a 5 speed fix quick!! I bought a Phoenix Trans in 2001 with converter and cable for approximately $1300.00. I then modified a later model X member that also has my E cable assembly attached. It cost me $85.00 to shorten the drive shaft and I'm happy as can be. Oh yeah it will smack your head against the back window when it shifts. I can cruise at 75-80 and will be turning around 2550-2650 with 3.73 gears and 30 inch rear tires. My suggestion is if you want a 700 auto do it, it can certainly be done for less than previously stated.

[padresag]

Originally Posted by dwlambert1701

What do I need to get if anything to put a 700r4 to my 283 SB. Thanks

yes it will bolt up to the engine just fine
you will need to remove the crossmember from under where the b/housing was and find and install a crossmember at the rear of the trans. I do happen to have an OEM crossmember. you will have linkage and cooler lines to deal with along with the radiator for the cooler lines. you may have to do a little manipulation on the seam (underside of floor at the firewall) for clearance.
get the right length for d/shaft along with the right slip yoke for the rear of trans. perhaps some mounting work for your emerg cable.
don't forget the tv cable
ron

[dwlambert1701]

Originally Posted by padresag

yes it will bolt up to the engine just fine
you will need to remove the crossmember from under where the b/housing was and find and install a crossmember at the rear of the trans. I do happen to have an OEM crossmember. you will have linkage and cooler lines to deal with along with the radiator for the cooler lines. you may have to do a little manipulation on the seam (underside of floor at the firewall) for clearance.
get the right length for d/shaft along with the right slip yoke for the rear of trans. perhaps some mounting work for your emerg cable.
don't forget the tv cable
ron

Someone cut it out before I bought the truck.

[padresag]

that solves that problem. someone must have had an a/t in it previously then. is there a rear trans crossmember there other than perhaps one for the emerg brake which is not adequate for the job
ron

[dwlambert1701]

Originally Posted by padresag

that solves that problem. someone must have had an a/t in it previously then. is there a rear trans crossmember there other than perhaps one for the emerg brake which is not adequate for the job
ron

Yes there is the trans I currently have is a 350 turbo automatic

[padresag]

Originally Posted by dwlambert1701

Yes there is the trans I currently have is a 350 turbo automatic

when you ask these kind of questions you should state this type of info. makes the answering simpler
ron

[Kenfuzed]

I'm preparing to do the same thing. I have a 700r4 from someone else and still need to figure out if the speedo will work. Replacing a TH350 and the PO already did the crossmember.

[BADAZ chevy guy]

What carburetor are you using? Edelbrok and Hollie carbs will need an adapter plate to correct the TV cable geometry. Late model Q-Jets (83 to 87-88?) will have the correct geometry for OEM cables.

[dwlambert1701]

Originally Posted by BADAZ chevy guy

What carburetor are you using? Edelbrok and Hollie carbs will need an adapter plate to correct the TV cable geometry. Late model Q-Jets (83 to 87-88?) will have the correct geometry for OEM cables.

Edelbrok 600 cfm