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07-13-2014, 12:53 PM | #1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: illinois
Posts: 516
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question about drive by wire
I'm trying to decide if want go with a new engine with dbw instead the of cable. Wondering is it a pain to deal with or is the pedal setup the only extra thing to deal with. If I understand correctly you.can use the factory pedal just retrofit it. Looking for some input here.
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07-13-2014, 03:42 PM | #2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Monroe,Iowa
Posts: 4,370
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Re: question about drive by wire
The 5.3 I bought was a DBW and I bought a Cable intake and sold the DBW intake set up.
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07-13-2014, 04:59 PM | #3 |
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Lewisville, Nc
Posts: 10,237
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Re: question about drive by wire
i used the dbw setup because my cab was set up for a rod style gas pedal and i din;t want o go though the trouble to modding the cab it fit a stock pedal
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07-14-2014, 01:06 AM | #4 | |
meowMEOWmeowMEOW
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: MKE WI
Posts: 7,128
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Re: question about drive by wire
Quote:
With DBW, there is no linkage or metal cable to run, so the placement of the pedal itself isn't limited by those factors. You can also modify the DBW pedal bracket, arm, or pedal itself...as well as combining them with existing parts or aftermarket parts. As an example; I have a custom arm on my dbw pedal assembly, made from a shotgun barrel. We used the dbw pedal, with that custom arm, mounted to a modified bracket...the flipside to that, some folks will use the o.e. floor-hinged pedal, and retrofit it onto the modern assembly.If you poke around in the builds or get creative with some search terms in this section, you can see all the ways its been done. The DBW can be made to fit pretty much any swap. The other benefit is from the programming. Because it uses a sensor (I can't remember if its actually a rheostat or a potentiometer...in some cases its a pair of them), the signal can be manipulated in the tune to suit your needs. Some folks with very aggressive motors will dial-back the pedal response at low speed/low rpm, to "tame" high hp cars that can be twitchy. You could also reduce the entire length of the travel/sweep, to make up for changes in the pedal arm length. Some t-bucket type swaps with 0 room will even shorten the whole sweep so the entire pedal travel is only an inch or so, allowing them more usable foot space.In terms of setting it up; Gen III engines started dbw in 2003 (there are early oddballs, as it also depends what the source vehicle was), with the majority of them being setup that way by late 2004 and after. They require all the dbw components to be from a matching vehicle, or as similar of a vehicle as possible. If you have a 2004 motor (its the TB that actually matters), then you also want to have a 2004 TAC module, and a 2004 Pedal assembly. The ECM should be from the same year or as close as possible...since you already want to find a v8/auto ECM just to DO the swap, this should fall into place pretty easily. In case you are sourcing the ECM seperately, its best to try and find one matching the above criteria, and having been from a DBW vehicle.That all sounds like a pain but it really isn't. Buying all the DBW parts together saves most of the hassle, especially if you can buy them WITH the motor. The most wiggle room is in the ECM, and its also the most likely to be sourced seperately. GenIV engines do not use a TAC module, only a TB (on engine) pedal assembly and the ECM. All GenIV engine are dbw, so it should be pretty simple to find a matching set.
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07-14-2014, 06:49 AM | #5 |
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Planet Earth
Posts: 13
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Re: question about drive by wire
Cruise Control is a challenge with later model DBW.
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07-14-2014, 12:00 PM | #6 |
meowMEOWmeowMEOW
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: MKE WI
Posts: 7,128
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Re: question about drive by wire
GenIII dbw cruise control is just a matter or having a couple of switches interface from the TCC/Brake switch and +12v, to the correct pins on the ECM. I have parts sitting in my garage to set mine up, its a pretty easy option actually.
GenIV dbw is a bit more complex, which I assume is the one your referring to. It can still be done, but it isn't anywhere near as simple as the above method. The ECM needs to see function from the BCM for things like cruise control. There are some companies making retrofits for this, but again, no where near as straightforward as it is for GenIII
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07-14-2014, 04:14 PM | #7 | |
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Re: question about drive by wire
Quote:
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Rob - https://www.instagram.com/hart_rod_c10 As Iron Sharpens Iron, So One Man Sharpens Another. Proverbs 27:17 FOR SALE: DBW pedal bracket - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=651123 FOR SALE: Hood Brackets http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=679945 1987 Silverado SWB - 34.5K original miles http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=801834 1969 SuperBurb - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=200387 1968 Farm truck - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=358692 1968 SWB - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=551258 1948 Chevy - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=122164&page=3 |
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07-14-2014, 04:34 PM | #8 |
meowMEOWmeowMEOW
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: MKE WI
Posts: 7,128
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Re: question about drive by wire
You can still do it with a couple switches? My cc "kit" I put together was literally $16 including lights to indicate it.
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'66 Short Step / SD Tuned / Big Cam LQ4 / Backhalfed /Built 4l80e / #REBUILDEVERYTHING MY BUILD THE H8RDCPTR //\\ MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL REV J HD
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07-14-2014, 07:34 AM | #9 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Monroe,Iowa
Posts: 4,370
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Re: question about drive by wire
I couldn't fiqure out how to hook up my TV cable for my 700 R4 with DBW. Cable was easier.
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