Post initial start up....could use some help

[FLYNAVY30]

A little bit of back story....1972 C20 Suburban. I built an LS1 using a 2002 aluminum LS1 short block that had been rebuilt using the factory rods and pistons but with new rings and bearings that I purchased from a local guy. I had a set of 243 heads that I sent to TEA to be cleaned up and milled to 62ccs that results in about 10.9:1 compression with the factory flat top pistons. Cam is 216/224 585/585 112 LSA. Everything else in the motor is new. ARP hardware throughout, Holley oil pan, ported LS6 oil pump, Holley front accessories, all new gaskets throughout. Eddelbrock intake, Holley 650 double pumper carb, MSD 6010 ignition box, painless wiring harness. Trans is a rebuilt 4L60E with FAST TCU.

On initial start, using the #3 pill in the MSD box, the motor fired right off and settled into a decent idle for the first start. That was followed shortly by oil pissing down my leg as the fitting on the rear of the factory oil pressure gauge was not correct. Following correcting that problem, I was showing solid oil pressure and had multiple start ups and shut downs while troubleshooting a number of gas, coolant, and power steering leaks.

Having sorted that out, I finally had the opportunity to fire the motor and allow it to get up to operating temp. After running for a few minutes (I took the below video showing some of the residual grease burning off the headers, but note the excessive smoke/vapors coming from the valve cover breathers https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qUEq...ature=youtu.be) , I noticed that oil pressure was showing zero and water temp had pegged, so I quickly shut the motor down.

After allowing the motor to cool, I popped the valve cover, and found this....generally doesn't look too bad, but some black globs....all oily residue, with no significant substance.

I then very briefly fired the motor to verify that there was in fact zero oil getting to the top side of the motor. I then drained the oil and the filter. There was no metal particles in the filter, nor in the oil as I ran a magnet through the pan repeatedly and got nothing more than a slight film on the magnet. That being said, you can see in the video below that the oil, which has about 30 minutes of run time on it in total, has a slight sheen or milky look to it. I did check the coolant, and while I did burp a significant amount of air from the system, all of the coolant is 100% clean.

Any input as to the loss of oil pressure at this point would be greatly appreciated as Im pretty much dead in the water and out of ideas.

Thanks very much!

[FLYNAVY30]

whooops....working on the videos

[FLYNAVY30]

additionally, this is what all of the plugs looked like.....

[FLYNAVY30]

valve train video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QGv6HEhfaQI


oil pan video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UT1F_eaMoEw

[truckdude239]

I hear knocking in the video never a good sign looks like Crbs running rich or its burning little oil

[FLYNAVY30]

Yea, it was hard to determine if its actually knocking, or if the regular engine noise is being amplified because its running through open headers at the moment. AFR at idle is 16:1 based on the AFR gauge which admittedly may or may not be accurate as its in the collector on header, which doesn't have an exhaust system hooked up to it just yet so its only about 4 inches from fresh air

[littlevictories]

looks real rich. afr cant be reading right that close to the end of the pipe. i think my aem said 24" min from end of pipe and between 8 and 24" from the cylinder.

zero oil pressure thing is bad juju.
id look at (in order)

oil pickup o ring
oil diverter barbell
cam bearings

[FLYNAVY30]

yea, I suppose Ill start with dropping the oil pan this weekend, if all looks well there, I guess Ill be left with nothing but tearing the motor out.....so much for driving this thing to Texas for my wedding in a month

[littlevictories]

does oil come out the pushrods when it's running with the rocker cover off?

warning:makes a big mess

[FLYNAVY30]

Yes, if oil is getting to the top end of the motor, it will come out the pushrods, and yes, it will make a big mess with the valve covers off. That being said, Id gladly deal with the mess if I could verify oil was getting where it was supposed to be.

[FLYNAVY30]

so after tearing the front of the motor back apart, I found that the bypas valve internal to the oil pump was stuck in the open position, bypassing oil back to the intake side of the pump.....HUGE PITA, but at least theres a cause....hoping to get the new pump tomorrow and have it fired up again this weekend....no wammy, no wammy, no wammy....