need advice cab/ floor

[Softpatch]

I'm at a point were I want to redo the floor in my 59 viking
when I removed the trans hump
the floor or what is left buckled on pass side .
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I borrowed an old bumper jack to try to push the bottom of the cab out
didn't work ..

Any idea how I can push stretch the cab out to lay the floor and get a proper gap so the pass side door will close.? thanks .....Sp
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[roger55]

Sorry, but that cab needs to come off the frame and repaired properly with a lot of new metal.

I doubt the cab is hardly even attached to the frame with that much rust. There certainly isn't any attachment with the front two mounts. That leaves the 2 rear ones and I wouldn't be surprised if they are compromised too.

[Softpatch]

Originally Posted by roger55

Sorry, but that cab needs to come off the frame and repaired properly with a lot of new metal.

I doubt the cab is hardly even attached to the frame with that much rust. There certainly isn't any attachment with the front two mounts. That leaves the 2 rear ones and I wouldn't be surprised if they are compromised too.

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thanks here's picture of front cab mount
it looks rust/crusty
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[b-mac]

I had a similar problem with my '49 (in progress). My cab floor was Swiss cheese. Both front mounts compromised. On my truck, I framed the floor with angle iron to keep it square. On your's, you might consider coming mid-way up the doors or something, and making an X, with rod, or angle iron or something (since you floor is already out of square.) You'll have to remove the doors, and you want to make sure they go back on. The bracing will keep the cab from twisting and distorting.
As for your passengers side floor, if you need to spread that side a little, you need to get your hands on a Portapower (hydraulic ram.) Common tool for body guys. You might be able to pull it off with a bottle jack, if you're careful. It may not be an issue once you remove the bent floor. Good luck.

[dsraven]

well, before you spend too much time, check all the common rust areas and then decide what you want to do.
-lower firewall and front floor area. this area rusts out badly due to the cowl vents getting plugged and allowing water to build up and leak out onto the floor. the front part of the floor, ahead of the cab mounts, gets weak and soon the firewall sags down, the cab mounts rust out and the hinge pillars rust out. this really affects the door fitment and can cause what you are dealing with.
-hinge pillars lower areas. check from under the truck to see what is left.
-front fender rear lower mount area. check while looking at the lower hinge pillars.
-step areas. usually rust where they are attached to the floor and the front and rear lower areas. the rocker areas are usually beat up as well.
-the roof area above the rain gutter gets rusty so try a poking tool there all the way around.
-the eyebrow above the windshield. inside and out. mice like that spot for nests and nests keep moisture. use the poking tool to check for good solid steel.
-rear cab corners, inner and outer, and rear door pillars.
-rear cab mount areas. check the floor under the gas tank too.

I will try to upload some pics for you to see what the area looks like without the fenders and vent covers etc. the pics are after sandblasting and the outer cowl has been removed for blasting that hidden area. you can see why there is a rust problem as soon as you look at that cowl drain.

have fun and post some pics of what those areas look like. a lot of these rusty areas have replacement panels available in the aftermarket. try brothers, tuckers, classic industries etc for their online catalogue. there is also some stuff on the custom classic trucks or classic trucks magazine sites if you go to the tech pages and search for 55-59 chev.

[dsraven]

oh ya, forgot to mention. if you are going to start replacing panels make sure to brace the cab up, with the doors on so it is square etc, before cutting anything. I would advise an assembly manual as well. lots of good stuff in there for measurements etc. you can go to the old cars manuals project and find some stuff as well.

[OrrieG]

I don't think you are applying pressure in the right place. The horizontal line at the floor/vertical step panel looks straight. I bet if you push up at the lower door hinge the floor will relax, weight of the door, with supports rusted out. You might need to apply pressure to push the lower hinge area away from center. It looks like the door jamb is using the cab mount and frame connection as a fulcrum.

Like DSraven said, first thing you need to do is stabilize what you have. Is driven door still sitting ok in the cab opening? Is the drive side step, etc. as bad as passenger? Does passenger door shut and sit ok in opening. Getting the cab stabilized above the floor line with the doors close to where they need to be should be done before removing the cab bolts.

[1-ton of fun]

it takes all of 30 seconds to get the vin tag off a cab to move it to a replacement cab to ease inspection/registration issues.

[mr48chev]

If he has a clear title for the truck in his name it is no hassle in this state and to very little hassle if he has a clear title to transfer.

I'd agree that finding a replacement cab with little or no rust would be the most prudent move. You often see farmers up around Ellensberg post larger old farm trucks on Craigslist for affordable prices. Or I've got a buddy who can probably find one.

[roger55]

I didn't want to be the first one to say it but I think there is a high chance that the cab he has is so bad that the best choice is to get another.

[dsraven]

where I come from they can put you in jail for tampering with a vin tag. that is why I said to check local laws before you cut the rivets and put a vin tag from a different vehicle on that cab or vice versa. if you happen to have a mechanics license they will take that from you as well. just saying, check first to be safe.

[Softpatch]

thanks for the replys.
: little backround
I found this truck in a sticker bush last june 6-14
pulled got out.
Last time I drove this truck was 1978
it was my fathers work truck he sold his buisness in 80 the truck has not been registered
in my state since 80 It fell off the DMV computer I will need to get inspection fora bonded title
(make it road worthy) fix floor, wipers, brakes, lights, I'm to the floor part
all the usual parts are rusty I can't find a panel that is not in need of repair
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I don't want to seem like a diq
(sorry if it comes off that way)
hope you guy's understand
I don't want to retore, or rebuild this truck.
I just want to do a preservation.
The cab has rot fenders doors hood too.
I have had to renew all the brake components.diffrent radiator,Ignition, wiring,

if I replace every thing on this truck that needs replacing there isn't any piece that would be original
and so it would not be "this" truck it would be another truck entirely
I have rust and I know it leaks and understand it will have to be parked out of the weather and ok with that
it's loud and slow and creaks and hard to steer and slow to brake
and not shiny but all those thing is what I like..

I now just want to make it safe and fixing the big holes and making the door shut
and with your guys help I'm getting there
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Originally Posted by roger55

Sorry, but that cab needs to come off the frame and repaired properly with a lot of new metal.

I doubt the cab is hardly even attached to the frame with that much rust. There certainly isn't any attachment with the front two mounts. That leaves the 2 rear ones and I wouldn't be surprised if they are compromised too.

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I probably wont take it off this time..
yes your are right three of the 4 mount were still solid only the rear pass mount was missing the bolt and all rubber is squished and very hard....Sp
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Originally Posted by b-mac

I had a similar problem with my '49 (in progress). My cab floor was Swiss cheese. Both front mounts compromised. On my truck, I framed the floor with angle iron to keep it square. On your's, you might consider coming mid-way up the doors or something, and making an X, with rod, or angle iron or something (since you floor is already out of square.) You'll have to remove the doors, and you want to make sure they go back on. The bracing will keep the cab from twisting and distorting.
As for your passengers side floor, if you need to spread that side a little, you need to get your hands on a Portapower (hydraulic ram.) Common tool for body guys. You might be able to pull it off with a bottle jack, if you're careful. It may not be an issue once you remove the bent floor. Good luck.

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I did get after it today with a bottle jack it didn't look pretty I did get the floor pushed back then the door was out of shape
tried to loosen door bolt but they stripped..
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thats were I stopped....Sp
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Originally Posted by dsraven

well, before you spend too much time, check all the common rust areas and then decide what you want to do.
-lower firewall and front floor area. this area rusts out badly due to the cowl vents getting plugged and allowing water to build up and leak out onto the floor. the front part of the floor, ahead of the cab mounts, gets weak and soon the firewall sags down, the cab mounts rust out and the hinge pillars rust out. this really affects the door fitment and can cause what you are dealing with.
-hinge pillars lower areas. check from under the truck to see what is left.
-front fender rear lower mount area. check while looking at the lower hinge pillars.
-step areas. usually rust where they are attached to the floor and the front and rear lower areas. the rocker areas are usually beat up as well.
-the roof area above the rain gutter gets rusty so try a poking tool there all the way around.
-the eyebrow above the windshield. inside and out. mice like that spot for nests and nests keep moisture. use the poking tool to check for good solid steel.
-rear cab corners, inner and outer, and rear door pillars.
-rear cab mount areas. check the floor under the gas tank too.

I will try to upload some pics for you to see what the area looks like without the fenders and vent covers etc. the pics are after sandblasting and the outer cowl has been removed for blasting that hidden area. you can see why there is a rust problem as soon as you look at that cowl drain.

have fun and post some pics of what those areas look like. a lot of these rusty areas have replacement panels available in the aftermarket. try brothers, tuckers, classic industries etc for their online catalogue. there is also some stuff on the custom classic trucks or classic trucks magazine sites if you go to the tech pages and search for 55-59 chev.

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thanks for the pictures all the panel in question have alot of rust
I will be buying the trans hump and floor panels (left,Right) and step wells (L/R) and hinge panels
and cab corners and inside doors if it will take it
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Originally Posted by OrrieG

I don't think you are applying pressure in the right place. The horizontal line at the floor/vertical step panel looks straight. I bet if you push up at the lower door hinge the floor will relax, weight of the door, with supports rusted out. You might need to apply pressure to push the lower hinge area away from center. It looks like the door jamb is using the cab mount and frame connection as a fulcrum.

Like DSraven said, first thing you need to do is stabilize what you have. Is driven door still sitting ok in the cab opening? Is the drive side step, etc. as bad as passenger? Does passenger door shut and sit ok in opening. Getting the cab stabilized above the floor line with the doors close to where they need to be should be done before removing the cab bolts.

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I found the sweet spot to pull the floor up
but then the door was way out
I suspect it has been like that for ever and they made the door work insted of fixing the problem
Back in the day 1970-80 they didn't have access to parts like we do today
it's amazing you can order every piece for the work force truck and that is mind blowing
I have another C-20 I wish i could get panels for
but the market is just not there.....Sp
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dsraven again thanks for pic's very helpful
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Originally Posted by 1-ton of fun

it takes all of 30 seconds to get the vin tag off a cab to move it to a replacement cab to ease inspection/registration issues.

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yes but it would not be this truck then it would be another truck
believe me i thought long and hard about this
a good "Parts Truck" in my area start around $2500.00 and go up
(no joke)
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Originally Posted by mr48chev

If he has a clear title for the truck in his name it is no hassle in this state and to very little hassle if he has a clear title to transfer.

I'd agree that finding a replacement cab with little or no rust would be the most prudent move. You often see farmers up around Ellensberg post larger old farm trucks on Craigslist for affordable prices. Or I've got a buddy who can probably find one.

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I've looked around and can't find one Wash,Oregon
again these trucks are very popular..
I would step up if I could find one....
I think my bill for replacment panels will exceed easly $500 in the next few weeks just in the cab lowers
and I know the uppers are just as bad
and glass and window treatment I would guess over a grand just for that
I went big on
the brakes
all new just parts $1600 master, booster, 6 wheel cylinders, lines,
shoes,hoses, ( i didn't want to rebuild the wheel cylinder I've done that before on another It just didn't hold up over time
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Originally Posted by roger55

I didn't want to be the first one to say it but I think there is a high chance that the cab he has is so bad that the best choice is to get another.

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I believe your right but this is the cab and It's not smart money
but I'm doing it smart money says get a very clean parts cab with papers and change it out

I would if it was avalable or if i wasn't so stubborn....
I will struggle on with your guys help.....
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no pictures today... It wan't pretty and a bit flustrating
But as from the first time I saw this truck after 38yrs
I told my father.......... I'm saving this one nobody else in there right mind would.......Sp
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(6-14)

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[Softpatch]

Originally Posted by Softpatch

a good "Parts Truck" in my area start around $2500.00 and go up
(no joke)

I've looked around and can't find one Wash,Oregon
again these trucks are very popular..
I would step up if I could find one....

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I think I have found why I can not purchase a sound parts truck in my area
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Guys like Sam I suspect supplement there retirement by buying stripping these year of trucks
I'm not knocking Sam He's has a passion and I will probably be doing the same thing in about 5 years
Right now need a doner truck and just saying today in my areas there is none to be found
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My name is Sam and I Just this last 10 months, I have bought and parted out 4 trucks;

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http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/pts/4885070487.html
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[OrrieG]

Originally Posted by Softpatch

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Right now need a doner truck and just saying today in my areas there is none to be found.
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You need to check out CL or drive east over the Cascades into the dryer E. Washington climates, maybe even down into the Eastern Oregon high desert and start looking for old big farm trucks. The cabs are the same and usually they were stored under cover and taken care of so they would last.

[Katrina/10]

Keep on doing it the way you are!

[Softpatch]

Wanted to get after this woke up early and went out half dazed
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I removed the kick panel and vent a BEFORE pic
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The stick is were i found the sweet spot( Temp) to see if i could push the cab back up in place( please excuse the mess)
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found out why i could not loosen upper door hinge bolt some one has had issues and put a nut on it so it spin around should be able to loosen it now

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this is through the floor looks like bottom corner is gone
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I didn't know how to access this area so i just cut the vent out and moved it aside is there another way to pull the vent.?

the bottom was full just like you guys said it would be
if this side full and because the floor is shot The drivers side will have to be accessed also
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some pass door gap shots..
because of the paint on the door seal leads me to believe the cab has had issues for 40 yrs +.?
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Pooched in the middle
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Bottom
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inner fender
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I welcome your comments .....Sp
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[72JimmyDiesel]

I would hold out for a parts truck or a cab. there was a Big back window cab for 600 that needed 5% the work of yours on Seattle Craigs last month. For that matter PM me i know of half dozen cabs in the portland area. I also know of a almost rust free 57 6400 that you could drive back in nice shape for 1600.

[OrrieG]

This is sounding a lot like Schrums thread, found and bought his grandfathers rusted out truck and is spending tons of money to preserve the "integrity". I get it, but I would also hear my grandfather whispering in my ear "don't waste the time and money when there is an easier path to follow". I watched my Dad's "legacy" cars, over a dozen, rust into the Oregon ground over 30 years of neglect and the heartbreak when he found each was only worth a few hundred dollars in parts instead of the tens or thousands he had envisioned.

Your truck, your decision, no judgement on my part regardless of the way you go.

[Softpatch]

Originally Posted by OrrieG

This is sounding a lot like Schrums thread, found and bought his grandfathers rusted out truck and is spending tons of money to preserve the "integrity". I get it, but I would also hear my grandfather whispering in my ear "don't waste the time and money when there is an easier path to follow". I watched my Dad's "legacy" cars, over a dozen, rust into the Oregon ground over 30 years of neglect and the heartbreak when he found each was only worth a few hundred dollars in parts instead of the tens or thousands he had envisioned.

Your truck, your decision, no judgement on my part regardless of the way you go.

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thanks for that

A smart man would have said upon see this for the first time in 38+yrs

"Yup that was My ol man's truck"
.... and turned around and walked away just leaving it were it was

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I'm not built like that.....
Even my father tried to talk me out of it but then stopped.
Realizing he was waisting his breath......Sp
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[roger55]

Originally Posted by OrrieG

This is sounding a lot like Schrums thread, found and bought his grandfathers rusted out truck and is spending tons of money to preserve the "integrity". I get it, but I would also hear my grandfather whispering in my ear "don't waste the time and money when there is an easier path to follow". I watched my Dad's "legacy" cars, over a dozen, rust into the Oregon ground over 30 years of neglect and the heartbreak when he found each was only worth a few hundred dollars in parts instead of the tens or thousands he had envisioned. Your truck, your decision, no judgement on my part regardless of the way you go.

Well said Orrie.
I was thinking a lot of these thoughts but couldn't have written out like you did here.

I was also thinking I need to unsubcribe from this thread. I just can't relate to what he is doing or feel that I can help at all because of that.

The truck is just a material thing. I say fix it right and make it safe, make it last and make the investment count.
So what if a lot of the original truck has been replaced by repro parts or from donor trucks? Saying it's not the same truck anymore is just something in the mind you have to get over. Just say it is the same truck. Not a lie. It really still would be the same truck in my mind and I'm sure it would for his other family members too. Just use as much of the original truck that is practically possible and not when it is not practical.

[Softpatch]

Originally Posted by OrrieG

This is sounding a lot like Schrums thread, found and bought his grandfathers rusted out truck and is spending tons of money to preserve the "integrity". I get it, but I would also hear my grandfather whispering in my ear "don't waste the time and money when there is an easier path to follow". I watched my Dad's "legacy" cars, over a dozen, rust into the Oregon ground over 30 years of neglect and the heartbreak when he found each was only worth a few hundred dollars in parts instead of the tens or thousands he had envisioned.

Your truck, your decision, no judgement on my part regardless of the way you go.

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Originally Posted by roger55

Well said Orrie.
I was thinking a lot of these thoughts but couldn't have written out like you did here.

I was also thinking I need to unsubcribe from this thread. I just can't relate to what he is doing or feel that I can help at all because of that.

The truck is just a material thing. I say fix it right and make it safe, make it last and make the investment count.
So what if a lot of the original truck has been replaced by repro parts or from donor trucks? Saying it's not the same truck anymore is just something in the mind you have to get over. Just say it is the same truck. Not a lie. It really still would be the same truck in my mind and I'm sure it would for his other family members too. Just use as much of the original truck that is practically possible and not when it is not practical.

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and to that I say..
I injoyed reading both statements and agree on both account..OP(Sp)
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On another note still searching for a parts truck.
Ordered some parts for what I have
and recieved some parts I've needed to reinstall wiper set up

(Sorry no pictures today)
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.......Sp
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[Softpatch]

I spent a day with a shovel and a vine cutter trying to remove this truck
some one said there's this old man with a backhoe might help
I found that ol man and after we were done the truck was back in the real world
ready for its next chapter
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Thank you
Harold Richard Mann
(April 4, 1931 - January 10, 2015) R.I.P
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http://www.islandfuneral.com/fh/obit...82&fh_id=10534
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[OrrieG]

My dads 69 C30 is currently like that with blackberries. Last time I uncovered it to see if it was savable I paid 2 guys $100 to swamp out the berries, took them 5 hours. I got it running, but carb would not idle so had to leave it.

There are threads on here where guys have redone trucks in that kind of condition, it is not impossible, just takes time, patience and attention to detail. If the process is the goal and time and money is not a factor, go for it with our support. If goal is to get it running as soon as possible, save the doors, glass and front clip and search for a new cab you can paint to match the doors. I been working on mine since 2000 but now am getting anxious to drive it.