No Limit Pro-10 chassis build

[robnolimit]

After settling in from our move to Tn last year, we have been working on our 63-72 chassis. Previously these were built with formed rails and x members. To bring more of the build in house, and to deliver the best driving chassis we could, we made a change and designed a fabricated rail system. The main rails are now fabricated from CNC laser cut side panels in 3/16", and capped top and bottom with 1/8". This creates a rail that is much stronger than stock, with minimal weight gain. These are fixture welded to keep them straight, and during the build process internal spacers are installed and welded to keep the rails from twisting. This process is used to form the "Front" and "Rear" rail sections. 2" x 6" x .120" tubing is used for the center section. The three sections interlock in the fixture and are welded inside and outside of the overlap.

[robnolimit]

One advantage to the three piece rail system is that we can change the frames profile easily. Currently we have two profile designs. #1 is an OE height rear kick that will fit under a stock bed floor. The front is matched to set this chassis with a ride height range of a 3" - 5" front drop, and a 4" - 6" rear drop. The #2 rail set requires that the bed floor be raised 4". These chassis can set in the range of 5" - 8" front drop, and 6" - 10" rear drop. Trucks setting below the 6"/8" range will probably need to have the inner fenders and wheel wells raised.

The center section is anew design as well. The long center "X" provides extra rigidity in the cab/bed area, as well as a driveshaft safety tunnel. "X" rails and the rear crossmember are ported for exhaust. The trans mount plate locates on the bottom of the "X", and can be adjusted for any GM trans.

[dec010974]

Good morning Rob of nolimit. the chassis seems like a great product. will this product ever be for sale? im sure, some of us are looking for a cost effective chassis. my thinking is that, this can be used, instead of a stock, 40+ years old chassis for a rebuild. am I correct with my thinking, rob? I would be interested in a product like this, in he near future. but price is everything. what type of suspension product, such as brakes, front cross member, rear end, leaf spring, trailing arms, etc. would be used for something like this? I would love a new frame, with increased strength, to replace my current, chopped up, modified, air ride suspension. but again, price is everything.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by robnolimit

The center section is anew design as well. The long center "X" provides extra rigidity in the cab/bed area, as well as a driveshaft safety tunnel. "X" rails and the rear crossmember are ported for exhaust. The trans mount plate locates on the bottom of the "X", and can be adjusted for any GM trans.

What thickness is the new center 'X' section made of? Curious if it's thinner material as well for weight savings.

[robnolimit]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

What thickness is the new center 'X' section made of? Curious if it's thinner material as well for weight savings.

The X-member is 7 ga. appx .163" that's thicker than the OE rail, but the porting keeps it light.

[lolife99]

Subscribing to this one.

[rmvlt1100]

I'm in for this one!!!!!

[robnolimit]

Thanks guys. Yes, this is currently for sale. We are updating what was our "Pro-Tech" chassis for the C10's into the new style of chassis build. Pricing will stay the same as our previous chassis for the C10's. We have already shipped 5 of these. I'll be posting more up for the next few days.

[smbrouss70]

I may be wrong, but I think what dec010974 is asking is will this be a frame that could be swapped in for the stock frame and be able to use stock suspension components so that he could build in stages, starting with a solid foundation. That way instead of having to buy a $10,000 - $15,000 chassis all at once, maybe he could start off with a $2,000 - $3,000 (or whatever the cost may be for you to still make a living) set of frame rails and crossmembers. Then he could run his stock front and rear suspension setups until he wants more, and can save up more. At that time he could add your bolt-in front suspension or bolt-in rear suspension, which would also keep your manufacturing costs down because you wouldn't have to manufacture 2 different suspensions setups for a stock frame or your fabricated frame. This would also allow those that have already purchased your suspension setups for a stock frame to take theirs to the next level with a much better foundation for the suspension to ride in. This way would allow the common home builder to build the complete chassis of his dreams without having to compromise something or re-mortgage his house and rob from his kid's college funds to do it all at once. I think you would sell a lot more of these if that were the case.

Again, I may be completely wrong about what dec010974 was trying to say, but I think it would be a great idea, regardless.

Either way, I like what I am seeing and I will be eagerly waiting to see how this new setup turns out.

[dec010974]

smbrouss70, thank you for that great explanation. you hit the nail, on the head. sometimes, my words don't flow, as they should, via the internet. I'm glad you pulled it out, and layed it flat, for us all to see and understand. if I could purchase the frame, and build my truck, at my own pace and expense, with interchangeable stock PARTS, and add the performance parts to the build later, like so many of us do, this would be a great option. from what I know, no vendor has this option. most of us home builders, are looking for old, 40 year old frame for a starting point. then we chop up this 40 year old frame to make a cool build. just to think, we are still working with a 40 year old frame.

[Advanced Design]

Originally Posted by dec010974

smbrouss70, thank you for that great explanation. you hit the nail, on the head. sometimes, my words don't flow, as they should, via the internet. I'm glad you pulled it out, and layed it flat, for us all to see and understand. if I could purchase the frame, and build my truck, at my own pace and expense, with interchangeable stock PARTS, and add the performance parts to the build later, like so many of us do, this would be a great option. from what I know, no vendor has this option. most of us home builders, are looking for old, 40 year old frame for a starting point. then we chop up this 40 year old frame to make a cool build. just to think, we are still working with a 40 year old frame.

Rob, This is a great idea! Make a chassis easily updatable as time and budget permits. This would help most of us average guys start down a good path to having something built right. And from a business perspective you would have customers that in the near future would want to upgrade by using your parts.

Following along as a C10 is on my wanna build list. While I am looking forward to the updates you are providing, additional detail pictures of your products on your web site would be beneficial. I appreciate your involvement on this forum and know you make quality products, the additional detail pictures would help many of us in our decision making process about what and where to buy.

Again, thanks for all your support. I really enjoy your make it handle thread.

Now, back to this C10 chassis. Apologies for the diversionary comments.

[oldman3]

This is a great ideal, and will change the way a lot of people will be doing their builds...Jim

[bbcmudtruck]

I would love to see this idea happen. I have spent around 100 hours on repairing my frame and adding in cross members. Between grinding rivets, repairing rust, c-notches, and drilling rivet holes out to 7/16, I would have gladly bought a frame knowing what I know now! All that and I still need to have it sand blasted and painted! New bare frame FTW!

[roxxx]

It sure has my interest !! I am looking for a decent SWB chev right now and having a new chassis is starting to really appeal to me

[robnolimit]

While we do understand the prohibitive costs of a complete new chassis, we can not turn away from the total value.

If we were to build a 'New' chassis that accepted OE components, we would be duplicating OE performance. The Classic C10 platform first showed in '63 (1962 to be accurate) That means GM built the tooling in 1960-1962. And, the platform was designed from 1957-1959. That time line puts early design in 1956. All of a sudden that adds another 12 years to what we think of as a 'late '60's early '70's truck. To build an upgraded 'replacement chassis' would be a costly mistake. Here's how it would work out.

A new full roller would come in at around $12,000. Take out the rear axles and housing (-$1000) and the rear suspension (-$1175) Also drop the fuel tank (-$450) and the brake plumbing (-$385) finally remove the front suspension (-$3295). You have now reduced the build to a bare chassis priced at $5695. But, we have to add in a few things to allow the use of all of the OE equip. So, add in an estimated $750. You have a base chassis that will accept OE and other parts for $6445. How many takers now?

The solution is a better way to purchase, that allows you to get the truck built and on the road. Not collecting towels in the garage. Price out all of the upgrades your planning and look at the total, and see what you get. For us at least, building an upgraded replacement chassis to use OE spec components is not in the future. Thanks for the interest and input.

[roxxx]

Originally Posted by robnolimit

While we do understand the prohibitive costs of a complete new chassis, we can not turn away from the total value.

If we were to build a 'New' chassis that accepted OE components, we would be duplicating OE performance. The Classic C10 platform first showed in '63 (1962 to be accurate) That means GM built the tooling in 1960-1962. And, the platform was designed from 1957-1959. That time line puts early design in 1956. All of a sudden that adds another 12 years to what we think of as a 'late '60's early '70's truck. To build an upgraded 'replacement chassis' would be a costly mistake. Here's how it would work out.

A new full roller would come in at around $12,000. Take out the rear axles and housing (-$1000) and the rear suspension (-$1175) Also drop the fuel tank (-$450) and the brake plumbing (-$385) finally remove the front suspension (-$3295). You have now reduced the build to a bare chassis priced at $5695. But, we have to add in a few things to allow the use of all of the OE equip. So, add in an estimated $750. You have a base chassis that will accept OE and other parts for $6445. How many takers now?

The solution is a better way to purchase, that allows you to get the truck built and on the road. Not collecting towels in the garage. Price out all of the upgrades your planning and look at the total, and see what you get. For us at least, building an upgraded replacement chassis to use OE spec components is not in the future. Thanks for the interest and input.

No now All I have to do is convince you to ship one half way across Continental north America for TESTING just saying
We have bigger and better potholes here
joking aside I am very interested depending on price point and fitment

[dec010974]

Well guys, my thoughts and wishes of cruising the scene, with a new chassis is gone with the wind. Great points Rob. I completely understand. I can't afford a new chassis such as that, at this time, as more important things are on the table, such as tuition, food, electricity, toys, and so on. Thanks Rob, for letting me dream. I know the pro-tech chassis is a great product, because you built it. Continue to build great products. Is there a happy medium Rob, to get a better chassis, without the children losing their college tuition? Again, Thanks Rob.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by dec010974

Well guys, my thoughts and wishes of cruising the scene, with a new chassis is gone with the wind. Great points Rob. I completely understand. I can't afford a new chassis such as that, at this time, as more important things are on the table, such as tuition, food, electricity, toys, and so on. Thanks Rob, for letting me dream. I know the pro-tech chassis is a great product, because you built it. Continue to build great products. Is there a happy medium Rob, to get a better chassis, without the children losing their college tuition? Again, Thanks Rob.

The DIY method of improving your current set-up.

[Advanced Design]

Very good points Rob. Looking forward to more on this chassis.

[robnolimit]

Here are some detail picts of the chassis. The chassis side of the Panhard rod mount is well braced, and still has clearance for exhaust. On the FatBar mounts, the spacer tube passes through to the chassis for a stronger mount, for high HP applications. Up front, the LCA tail gussets support the rear bushing in 'double sheer'. And a look at the finished rear suspension.

[Hart_Rod]

Sweet! Looking forward to more pictures.

[ripdog28]

Rob, any update or new pics? Really like to see the front suspension. really want to pick this up but gotta convince my wife.bwould be interested in all but rear axel. Getting into auto cross and an either gonna go nuts on my stock frame or do this.

[70blackfish]

Nice

[SCOTI]

Track width front & rear?
What size wheels would be possible?

[smbrouss70]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Track width front & rear?
What size wheels would be possible?

I'm interested in this also. ^^^

Do you have any more info or pics to share with us? I really would love to see one of your #2 frames with a body and wheels mocked up at ride height.