How can I lower my truck and improve ride quality?

[jason999]

Hello,

I have been back and forth about bagging my truck.

I am now back to strongly considering drop spindles and springs.

My truck is a 66 c10 Fleet with a 5 lug axel and stock rear suspension. The front end from an 81 C10. So it has disc brakes.

So, could I improve handling and ride quality while lowering my truck?

I like to lower the truck 2.5"-3" in the front and go pretty level in the back.

Would it improve my ride if I changed the front springs, while I am putting on drop spindles? Are there other changes that I should consider, whule Im at it?

I have searched threads, but I would love for someone to list specific parts with brands that they would recommend.

I am also concerned that the back will end up different from the front height.

Thanks,
Jason

[BR3W CITY]

Lowering a vehicle and ride quality don't really go hand in hand in most situations.

For example, whether you used cut springs, or actual lowering springs...both with result in a shorter overall amount of travel. This means that you'll need a stiffer spring rate to prevent coil bind or bottoming out. As you can put together, a stiffer spring means a less comfy ride. In the case of the cut springs (same rate, just shorter) it means that you'll be more likely to bottom out.

With a lowering spindle, you retain stock geometry and springs, so your ride quality won't improve, but it also wont' get worse.

However, since technology has improved in both springs and shocks, you can get an acceptable ride quality. A good set of shocks that are proper length for the amount of drop you have, is probably the biggest factor in preventing the harsh/bouncy ride most commonly associated with lowered trucks.

Also consider that a smaller wheel with a larger tire (like a 15"), will have a slightly softer ride because the larger sidewall soaks up some of the bumps.

Bagged trucks with a well measured link setup and bags that are correctly sized will be the "ideal" way to get any amount of drop, and actually improve the ride. A badly setup bagged truck will NOT ride good, so the emphasis is on the quality of the parts and the install.

I'd say my truck has a fairly acceptable ride for a hotrod, and I'm about 4/6 with good shocks and a 15" tire. I've got a screwed up back, and in combo with my ProCar seats, I consider it comfortable enough for my use.

[jason999]

Thanks for the reply. I can understand that lowering could result in a less quality ride, but I was curious if some of my older parts could be replaced by parts that are more advanced or less worn to improve ride quality.

I have 255/55-18 tires, BTW.

If anyone can list specific part and brand recommendations, I would appreciate it.

Thanks,
Jason

[Boats&Hoes]

One of the most overlooked parts when it comes to ride quality are the shock absorbers. I see way to many guys settling for shocks (KYB) because they are cheap, that's cool I understand that they want to save money.

But fitting your truck with a good set of mono-tube design shocks that are at the proper length, like Bilstein, will go a long waaay. Doesn't matter with a drop spindle or bags.

[WOLFMANmike]

i was told by my friend on here ChevyMike that a good pair of shocks alone make a huge change in driving and handling on any car or truck .. so im gonna have to agree with shocks on this one .... also bags are very costly but do give the soft nice ride ... how ever you can get a very nice ride with a static drop too for way less money as long as you do it right and do drop spindles and proper springs and shocks

[PGSigns]

I have a setup close to what you would have once you go to drop spindles and a drop spring front and rear. I only have 2" front drop springs and it has plenty of travel left. 3" springs in the back wit a 1 1/14 block. I also put urathane bushings in the trailing arms and a long track bar from ECE. Did the caster mod and had it aligned. Handling was much improved but ride was not. At first I had the KYB's from the CPP drop kit on it and they seemed soft. Got a set from the parts store when I found two of the ones on the truck dead. Ride improved but they just were not tuned for the truck well since they are really a cheap shock for a toyota or a jeep. Also did the shock relocators in the rear at this time. So did a lot of reading and even a post here on shocks for a daily driver and decided to put a set of Bell Tech street performance shocks on it and that was a night and day improvement. Have a good bit of time on them now and the truck with this combination of parts is fun to drive and handles and rides good for a 50year old truck. Here is a link tot he shock package.http://www.belltech.com/products/bel...-se-14093.html
Jimmy

[jason999]

This is exactly the kind of information that I am looking for. Im researching monotube shocks right now. Who knows what is one there now...

Also, maybe I should explain what I am seeking. Improving ride quality is pretty vague and maybe not even completely accurate.

I want the truck to have a nice planted but comfortable ride. I would like for if to handle more like a modern sport touring car. I know it won't feel like a Cadillac CTS-V but I'm just giving a general direction that I would like to move toward.

I had a 2011 Camaro SS convertible. That was a great handling car with a nice ride.

[chevy_mike]

Shocks will be your #1 factor on ride quality, assuming all of your suspension hard parts are correct (i.e. lack of travel and bottoming out on frame). I personally am a huge fan of Bilstein shocks and is all I basically use, when I have that option. Another great way to go is something like Ride Tech adjustable shocks. This way you can tailor your ride, firm, soft or in between. Sure they cost much more but are nice to have a quality adjustable shock.

As for lowering, I am a huge fan of 2" CPP modular drop spindles with a 1" drop spring. This give a 3" drop front but still allows enough travel to not bottom out. Change the bump stop to a 3/4" style. Rear would likely need a 5" drop to get level. A combo of either springs or springs/blocks will work but to get travel, you're likely going to need to notch the frame. You will definitely want to do a shock relocation kit, so the rear shocks are more upright and work correctly. If you keep them laid over after a drop, you effectively make the useless. You'll also need an adjustable panhard bar to recenter the axle after the drop.

[jason999]

Originally Posted by chevy_mike

As for lowering, I am a huge fan of 2" CPP modular drop spindles with a 1" drop spring. This give a 3" drop front but still allows enough travel to not bottom out. Change the bump stop to a 3/4" style. Rear would likely need a 5" drop to get level. A combo of either springs or springs/blocks will work but to get travel, you're likely going to need to notch the frame. You will definitely want to do a shock relocation kit, so the rear shocks are more upright and work correctly. If you keep them laid over after a drop, you effectively make the useless. You'll also need an adjustable panhard bar to recenter the axle after the drop.

So, why would you go with 2" drop spindles and 1" drop springs? What would the advantage be over using my old springs and 3" drop spindles? Would my ride inprove is I replaced my original springs w/ new? I am thinking that mine have likely settled some over the years? So an inch lower might be the same? Don't get me wrong... I will likely buy the new springs if there is an advantage.

Also, My front end is from an 81 C10, so I believe that I should need spindles for an 81. It looks like CPP are $230 but Ebay a few brands for $160 or so (Spindle Source, CTS, or others). Is there a reason to buy CPP specifically?

Jimmy,
I'm running a newly built 350. It's nothing too wild with a 350 turbo w/ shift kit. My LS3 Camaro vert was a disappointing fat pig but the handling was nice. We traded it for a Corvette after 6 months. Of course I know my 350 is no LS3.
Thanks,
Jason

[PGSigns]

So what are you going to use for power? With the example you used power to weight has a big influence on the feel for the handling. I live in the country and have a lot of back roads to enjoy. My combination of motor, brakes, wheel/tire and suspension makes it fun to drive. I am planning a swaybar upgrade for the front and the addition of a rear sway bar.
Jimmy

[earl84]

For handling quality, an anti-sway bar makes a HUGE difference.

[PGSigns]

When you go with 2 or 2 1/2" drop spindle a disc brake 15" wheel can still be run in most cases and a few will require a little trimming of the lower control arm. Once you go to a 3" spindle you have to go to a larger wheel. Look at summit for spindles, springs and other parts. Best prices for good quality stuff. The seat also is a place to look for better ride in these trucks. I redid the one in the 66 and it helped the feel a good bit. It had very soft padding and several springs with issues and you bounced all over or sat in a hole. With rebuilding the base and frame and new good quality foam it really feels good. Handling and ride are all about the complete package between the road to your butt.
Jimmy

[chevy_mike]

Yeah, 3" you can run into wheel issues if using 15" ones.

I personally like the modular spindles as they don't space your wheels out like many other spindles do.

[jason999]

I just bought 18" wheels and I have disc brakes up front from the 81 C10, so Im ready to go on lowered spindles.


What are modular spindles?

If I replaced my old springs with 1" lower springs, do you think it would improve anything?

[lolife99]

You do NOT have to go to a larger wheel with 3" drop spindles.
I've used probably 4 sets of Belltech 3" drop spindles in my life.
I've also installed 2.5" McGaughy's and ECE drop spindles.
The issue is backspacing.
A 15" wheel with MORE THAN 3.5" of backspacing will require a little trim at the lower balljoint area of the lower control arm.
Most rally wheels have 4" backspace, but trimming solves this issue.

[PGSigns]

These trucks are heavy and lowering them lowers the center of gravity. That will help with handling.
Jimmy

[Palf70Step]

Here is my 64.

All of my stuff (except the a-arms) are from ECE...

Front (A-arms are from 70 C10)
2-1/2" drop spindles
6-lug disc brake conversion
2" drop front coils
1-1/4" sway bar with brackets for lowered trucks
KYB front shocks
15x8" Eagle Alloys rims
245/60x15 tires

6" drop rear springs
shock relocator brackets for rear
KYB rear shocks
Super Panhard bar
Same 15x8" rims
275/60x15 tires

The ride is really good. Not sure how it compares to a stock ride (on 64-66 anyways). The fact that it is all newer components is probably the greatest increase in quality. The front sway bar changes the whole driving characteristics of the truck. Never leave home without one again.


I love the look, but if I ever redo it or do another I will not go this low. I drive on too many back roads and I am forever cleaning gravel from the front cross member.

Since you got new wheels and tires, I know they won't clear my setup, but I would look at 2.5" front spindles (make sure they are for your later a-arms). New stock springs, new KYB gas shocks. I like the rake a bit, so I would go with maybe 4 or 5" drop springs, the super panard bar, shock relocators and new shocks. The panard bar gives you some adjustments for the lowering. You may not need it with just 4", but it helps to adjust out some of the rear skittishness (my opinion). Same way with shock relocators, they allow the shocks to remain more upright and have a better dampening effect.

[jason999]

So it looks like Im going to get new spindles, new coil springs for the rear, monotube shocks and a sway bay.

So will new springs in the front ride better than my old springs?

[Palf70Step]

yes

[OrangeCrush1970]

FYI.... I just installed 2.5" CCP drop spindles and 1" big block drop springs with 255/55r15 tires (29" tall) and I am hitting the wheel well on the driver side. It sits better on the passenger side and am currently chasing down the issue. All of my front suspension is new. I don't know why I sits lower on the driver side, but I think you will be cutting it close if you go this route with your 255/55r18's. I am also running the same Bell tech street performance shocks as referenced above but cannot give you my recommendation on these yet.

[jason999]

Originally Posted by OrangeCrush1970

FYI.... I just installed 2.5" CCP drop spindles and 1" big block drop springs with 255/55r15 tires (29" tall) and I am hitting the wheel well on the driver side. It sits better on the passenger side and am currently chasing down the issue. All of my front suspension is new. I don't know why I sits lower on the driver side, but I think you will be cutting it close if you go this route with your 255/55r18's. I am also running the same Bell tech street performance shocks as referenced above but cannot give you my recommendation on these yet.

Thanks


After lots of work over the past several months, I am close to having my truck back together with a new cam and other motor improvements, new interior, new steering column, new bed wood, tons of misc parts, body work and a slick new paint job.

I just need to finish installing the interior and get the front and back window in. After that I will reconnect lights and put the front bumper and grill on. I may be done in the next week.

I plan to roll around a little this fall and then I will complete my vintage air install. Last, I plan to put 3" drop spindles on the front and 4" drop springs on the rear.

It looks like my tires are 29.04".

Let me know how you solve your problem.

[65Gregg]

I would suggest you consider NoLimit Shock relocater kit for the rear, it makes a heck of an improvement.

[PGSigns]

Check to make sure your springs are aligned in the spigot in the crossmember that locates the top of the spring. It is easy to get a spring sitting up on it.
Jimmy

[OrangeCrush1970]

I have checked the springs, this was a priority at install knowing their position could effect the level. I have read that some chevy trucks have a lean. I think that's BS....

Driver side is almost 1" lower so I just got a .36" spring shim. That should lift it up a little more than 1" and I can adjust from there. I hate to compensate this way but Im not 100% confident in the aftermarket springs. They both measured the same before install.

Also, I have the No Limit shock relocation kit on the rear and the Bell Tech shocks would not fit on the mounting hardware provided with the metal sleeves installed. I made an attempt at pressing them out but started tearing the bushing so stopped. I would suggest finding a rear shock without the sleeves unless someone knows how to get them out without tearing anything up. I have pushed them out before on Monroe's but these didn't want to budge.

Jason, I started out with a full coil cut on the front and had it aligned. With the 29" tire it looked good but needed a touch more drop... After my spindle / drop spring install I think you would be good with just a 2.5 or 3" drop spindle and stock ht spring. I would also suggest no more than a 4.5" back space on the front. I went 4.5" but think that 4" would have been perfect with just enough lip while pulling the tire into the wheel well.

On the rear I have about a 4.25" drop with a 275/55/18 (30") tire and like it. I could go lower but have already battled drive line issues and don't want to go down that road again!

Hope this helps you out a little, I'll post some pics when I get a chance. Havnt taken any with the drop spindles installed-

[LostMy65]

What are some really nice rear shocks for the 60-62 C10?