Fastener question

[ochre 72]

Would like an opinion on what finish fasteners to use on my 72 jimmy project.

Is there a company that sells kits from the cab back?

I haven't had much success locating. Southern Kentucky list some kits, but I didn't see blazer specific listings. I plan on calling them when they open up this morning.
I really think I would like to find some that were black coated.

I was thinking stainless, but I plan on painting the bed the body color and I think stainless doesn't take paint well.

Thanks

[tjsblazer]

Totally Stainless sells different kits. Some include black stainless hardware for the engine compartment and front sheet metal area which was where it typically was from the factory.

[ochre 72]

Originally Posted by tjsblazer

Totally Stainless sells different kits. Some include black stainless hardware for the engine compartment and front sheet metal area which was where it typically was from the factory.

Thanks for the reply. I'll check them out. Seems kind of tough finding stuff for the rear. I ordered a rear kit for a truck today from Soky Classics. That should help get it together for now.

[DeadheadNM]

Depending on what fastners you need zinc or phosphate coating of the OEM hardware could return an original finish and would probably be less expensive based on what I've seen new parkerized bolts sell for. I've made use of both finishes with great results. A search of this site should return example pics.

[A1971Blazer]

If you have access to a local plating shop, they can zinc plate and chromate for little cost....for bolts and such they use a process called "barrel plating" ......they can do a huge load at one time for one charge.......also makes a good surface for paint..........

a friend of mine owns a plating shop...........I gather up a bunch of oem fasteners and get them all plated at one time.......then paint the ones that need to be painted.....
BUT............I'm not hung up on "original factory correctness".... some factory stuff just didn't last for the long haul........

[ochre 72]

Thanks for the info. I think I will blast and coat what I can save. The project I'm working on original factory correctness is long gone.

[tjsblazer]

I am currently using some stainless on my resto but also replating some original hardware. I just sent a large batch of hardware and parts out for zinc plating both bright and black. I will post some pictures in a week or so when I get them back.

[Sandemonium]

Not sure this fits with the OP question, but on my restoration I bagged and tagged all of my parts on disassembly, then went bag by bag bead blasting all of my fasteners then used a product from Caswell called black oxide coating.

It took awhile, but after cleaning up the fasteners and using the caswell product my fasteners looked good as new.

Good luck with your restoration.

[hemi43]

Black oxide is is basically a controlled oxidization process. What keeps it looking black and corroding any further is the oil that's applied in the pores of the material. It works fairly good for machine tooling, but will rust fairly quickly when used as automotive fasteners.

[DeadheadNM]

Originally Posted by hemi43

Black oxide is is basically a controlled oxidization process. What keeps it looking black and corroding any further is the oil that's applied in the pores of the material. It works fairly good for machine tooling, but will rust fairly quickly when used as automotive fasteners.

Yet isn't this the finish GM used for many of the sheet metal bolts/screws, striker plates, hood latches, etc.?

[A1971Blazer]

Originally Posted by DeadheadNM

Yet isn't this the finish GM used for many of the sheet metal bolts/screws, striker plates, hood latches, etc.?

I believe they parkerized the bare metal parts...........a slightly different process from black oxide.......a bit more protective but still not as good as zinc plating.....I assume it amounted to a cost issue.... on millions of fasteners it would add up significantly?

[hemi43]

Originally Posted by DeadheadNM

Yet isn't this the finish GM used for many of the sheet metal bolts/screws, striker plates, hood latches, etc.?

Black oxide is mainly used as a rust resistant finish on hard tooling, and not meant to be put into a harsh environment. I'm a retired Tool&Die maker (32yrs) and recently fabricated a complete black oxide line for a local heat treating business, so I have a bit of background with this process. I'm not sure what GM used as the black finish on their fasteners, but can assure you it wasn't black oxide. I always thought it was some sort of phosphate coating, but that is just a guess. I'm just putting this out there, to prevent someone the grief of going through the expense of getting their parts black oxided only to find out they'll be covered in rust a few months down the road.

Dan

[A1971Blazer]

Originally Posted by hemi43

Black oxide is mainly used as a rust resistant finish on hard tooling, and not meant to be put into a harsh environment. I'm a retired Tool&Die maker (32yrs) and recently fabricated a complete black oxide line for a local heat treating business, so I have a bit of background with this process. I'm not sure what GM used as the black finish on their fasteners, but can assure you it wasn't black oxide. I always thought it was some sort of phosphate coating, but that is just a guess. I'm just putting this out there, to prevent someone the grief of going through the expense of getting their parts black oxided only to find out they'll be covered in rust a few months down the road.

Dan

Hemi43.......I'm a tool maker/ machinist as well........since 1974..........now I run my own shop.......

Here's a Wiki article that explains the difference a little better.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parkerizing

Black oxide is commonly called "bluing" as relating to firearms......but parkerizing is also commonly used for firearms as well.......just a different process/finish

[Sandemonium]

Originally Posted by hemi43

Black oxide is is basically a controlled oxidization process. What keeps it looking black and corroding any further is the oil that's applied in the pores of the material. It works fairly good for machine tooling, but will rust fairly quickly when used as automotive fasteners.

Hopefully the sealer included with the kit will prevent the rusting you speak of. It's been a year on some of the fasteners and they look as good now as they did when I performed the process.

Good luck on the choice for fastener you use, as with everything there are several directions you can go and reasons why you shouldn't go that direction.

[DeadheadNM]

Thank you. For some reason I thought the processes were one in the same. The re-plated parts have always come back coated in what appears to be gun oil. Maybe I should oil my tow hooks

[ochre 72]

Thanks for all of the great info. I learned a lot.