1960-62 adjustable torsion keys for lowering?

[Nevada51]

A couple of questions if I may:

1) Does anyone make adjustable torsion bar keys (pork chops) to lower a 1960 to 1962 torsion bar front end? It seems there's a number of options for raising later model trucks, eg:

http://www.suspensionmaxx.com/maxxca...leveling-kits/

I like the ability to dial in the height with torsion bars (plenty of experience with torsion bars in VWs), but I don't like that the adjustment bolts hang low once they're loosened off. I'd like to retain as much of the original suspension as possible, so I'd rather not put a new front member in.

2) Do the keys make noise (eg slap, or metal on metal) against the frame once they're loosened off to lower the truck? Or is some sort of spacer required?

3) Is the front end of the torsion bar (ie the end that goes in to the control arm) hex shaped and NOT splined? Seems it is, but someone mentioned splines in a post when I did a search which confused me.

Thanks in advance.
Cam

[62stepside longbox]

Here's the answer to #3. The front of the torsion bars are hex shaped not splined. It would be nice if they were splined because then we could index (pull the key off the torsion bar and rotate the bar then slide back in) them to get lower without worrying about the keys scraping. If you indexed them it would lower it way to much because of it being hex shaped. Oh and for#2 there is still pressure on the keys even when loosened so there is no noise

[LVPhotos]

Use drop spindles, get disks and adjust bars accordingly.
The ride gets softer and a better shock is needed. There are some posts of custom pork chops that were built.

[Nevada51]

Thanks for the responses. Sounds like no keys are being made commercially. I'd have thought there'd be a market for them (and they look like they'd be relatively easy to manufacture), but I guess most owners are swapping out their front members.

That's the first pic of the torsion bar out of the LCA I've seen. Splined would have been great!

Cam

[MASTERBrian]

I know old thread, but read somewhere there might have been someone making dropped keys, so seeing if anything has changed.

[lowroder]

interested as well.. i have a 62 c10 an looking to lower front too.

[G8rN@te61]

look at the current 62 sway bar thread in which Joe talks about removing part of the key to make the torsion key stick down less. My question is what is the typical safe lowering you can achieve with loosing the torsion to lower. I need to figure out what size coils to get for the rear.

[LVPhotos]

Lowest on bars... use a 2.5" drop spindles, bag rear on Schrader Schrader valve

[lowroder]

Originally Posted by LVPhotos

Lowest on bars... use a 2.5" drop spindles, bag rear on Schrader Schrader valve

so is the truck in the picture the one thats bagged an torsion dropped?

[LVPhotos]

Originally Posted by lowroder

so is the truck in the picture the one thats bagged an torsion dropped?

The front is all torsion bar no drop spindles maxed out and rear bags. Now it's fully bagged.

[lowroder]

Originally Posted by LVPhotos

The front is all torsion bar no drop spindles maxed out and rear bags. Now it's fully bagged.

So what did you do for front?
Did you completely remove the torsion bars an just add bag mounts to the lower A arms an box the upper cavity.
I seen this type before.
Is this how yours is or did you do a crossmember swap.

[G8rN@te61]

Spindles requires disc brakes, power booster, and different wheels = ~$1200+ investment plus lots of hours of labor. Even more if you change the whole setup to non-torsion. Lowering torsion a few inches and changing rear springs = ~$200 and 1 day. But of course can't go as low and new brakes etc. are safer in long run. I have a steep driveway so can't anyways. I am just going to do it and once I lower the front a i'll order the springs. Ill post numbers when I can.

[SkinnyG]

I believe he did Porterbuilt.

[LVPhotos]

Porterbuilt

[lowroder]

Originally Posted by LVPhotos

Porterbuilt

whats the cost on that cross-member ?
ive seen many go to other c10 crossmebers up to 1987

[LVPhotos]

It's not cheap. There is more support now. Leave it torsion bar and use 67-87 drop spindles and swap ball joints. You can get adjustable ride without all that swap. I saved up for mine. Its not just the front that needs to be addressed... it's the whole package. Floor clearance(high hump), Driveline... I went 2 piece driveshaft for clearance.... so take a look at my build link. I have had this truck since 1997

[lowroder]

Originally Posted by Nevada51

A couple of questions if I may:

1) Does anyone make adjustable torsion bar keys (pork chops) to lower a 1960 to 1962 torsion bar front end? It seems there's a number of options for raising later model trucks, eg:

http://www.suspensionmaxx.com/maxxca...leveling-kits/

I like the ability to dial in the height with torsion bars (plenty of experience with torsion bars in VWs), but I don't like that the adjustment bolts hang low once they're loosened off. I'd like to retain as much of the original suspension as possible, so I'd rather not put a new front member in.

2) Do the keys make noise (eg slap, or metal on metal) against the frame once they're loosened off to lower the truck? Or is some sort of spacer required?

3) Is the front end of the torsion bar (ie the end that goes in to the control arm) hex shaped and NOT splined? Seems it is, but someone mentioned splines in a post when I did a search which confused me.

Thanks in advance.
Cam

do they offer a kit for 62 c10s? i didnt see a listing on that site