Saginaw swap

[Jgowin]

I'm working on a 66 c10, when I got the truck home the original trans and linkages were long gone. I'm wanting to put a later fully synchronized Saginaw in place of the original. The trans I have is supposed to be out of a 67 or 68 c10 mated to a 250 I6, I have a set of levers and linkages for a 67-72, I'm wanting to keep the shifter on the column. The linkages and levers aren't working out, Could I be running into a v8 verses I6 linkage issue? I would think that I would be having for issues if so if I was trying to run a v8, help or advice would be appreciated, thanks.

[Sizemore 65]

I put one in my 66, had to change the bellhousing for the larger hole 5 1/8. Had a piece of tube welded in my first to reverse rod that was 3.25 inches long. the 67-72 rods won't work. My advise is to find you a set of 60-66 rods and cut a piece of tube out and have it welded in. I first put in solid rod and was too heavy, would pull its self down and hang.

[Jgowin]

Thanks for replying, what selectors did you use? I have a pair of rods for a 1966 c10 and a pair from a 67-72 the pair that are suppose to be from the GMC are smaller solid rods, the ones that are suppose to be from the 67-72 are hollow, maybe it a GMC vs chevy thing? I originally planned to use the muncie selectors adapted to the saginaw but the rods were both too short. Sorry for not responding sooner my weekend project priority got changed.

[Sizemore 65]

The Saginaw I'm using came out of a 69. I'm using the factory arms on the transmission and my rods off the 66. Also had to shorten the driveshaft 5 1/2 inches. short wheel base. Don't know about solid rods. I have 65-66 rods and some 69-72 rods both have a 5/8 od and a .085 wall. The factory (1966) second to third rod works as is, the first to reverse rod needs 3.25 inches added to it.

Aaron

[Jgowin]

Thanks for posting pics, I haven't had time to dive back in yet. I'll see if I can post some pics of what I'm working with as well.

[Jgowin]

Ok, got I extended the first-reverse rod as now I can select all my gears. My issue now is my clutch, when I installed the transmission I also installed the bell housing that came with it. All my clutch parts look good but my peddle is sticking up super high compared to my brake and I can't get enough clutch adjustment to get into gear, do I need swap to the old bell housing as well?

[Jgowin]

Originally Posted by Jgowin

Ok, got I extended the first-reverse rod as now I can select all my gears. My issue now is my clutch, when I installed the transmission I also installed the bell housing that came with it. All my clutch parts look good but my peddle is sticking up super high compared to my brake and I can't get enough clutch adjustment to get into gear, do I need swap to the old bell housing as well?

Sorry I was in a hurry when I posted this and did not review before posting.
Anyway, I'm able to select all my gears now but now my clutch is acting up. I bought my motor, bell housing, and trans as a complete unit, it was removed from a 68 c10 for a V8/auto swap. Clutch and pressure plate appeared to be in good condition. My clutch peddle sticks up very high compared to my brake peddle, I can shift into gears with the clutch pressed and the motor not running so I know it's not a binding issue with the linkages, I got the adjustment linkage maxed out, I can start the truck with it in gear but it soundings like your riding the clutch and catches very low. Do I have a linkage issue? Or could my later bell housing affecting my clutch operation?

[jtrichard]

The clutch adjustment has NOTHING to do with how high the pedal sets make sure that the bump stop is still in place if it is missing then the pedal will be higher

[Jgowin]

Originally Posted by jtrichard

The clutch adjustment has NOTHING to do with how high the pedal sets make sure that the bump stop is still in place if it is missing then the pedal will be higher

Thanks for replying, I'll mark that off my list.

[notsolo]

Z-bar and the length of the rod to the clutch pedal could effect the clutch travel. If your missing or using miss matched parts. Your going to have to search for correct pieces. Maybe ask another member with a similar truck for photo's and measurements. Here's a survivor.. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=613851

[Jgowin]

Originally Posted by notsolo

Z-bar and the length of the rod to the clutch pedal could effect the clutch travel. If your missing or using miss matched parts. Your going to have to search for correct pieces. Maybe ask another member with a similar truck for photo's and measurements. Here's a survivor.. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=613851

Actually those were the only items that were still on the truck, I'm going to try pulling the inspection cover when I get a day off and try and see whats going on with it. I was actually wondering if I need later Zbar and linkages due to using the later transmission and bell housing. BTW that's a great example of an original truck!

[jtrichard]

As you can see in the thread referenced above in the third pic the clutch pedal is higher that the brake from the factory

[jtrichard]

Post pics of just what you have

[Jgowin]

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1469889503
This is the TO I was using, the new one is identical.

[notsolo]

That looks a little rough, I would think the ripples would cause a vibration in the clutch when depressed and possibly wear the fork. Does the fork ball and socket look correct?

[Jgowin]

Originally Posted by notsolo

That looks a little rough, I would think the ripples would cause a vibration in the clutch when depressed and possibly wear the fork. Does the fork ball and socket look correct?

I agree with the looking rough and I don't remember it looking that bad when I assembled it. I haven't seen any issues with fork ball or the clutch arm either. I talked with the guy at the local parts store and he has the clutch and pressure plate in stock, I'm going by Monday morning to compare my parts with the new ones he has to hopefully figure this out.

[Jgowin]

Ok, I pulled the transmission and removed the clutch and pressure plate. Here's the old one:

The new one:

The clutch discs were nearly identical, both read about .328" thick. I reinstalled everything and the new pressure plate is night and day difference, I figure the old pressure plate has had a couple clutch discs in it's past. But now my new HD pressure plate is more than my home made bracket can handle, it was missing so I made one out of 1/8" flat stock, it flexes like crazy when I press the clutch. Oh well now I need to find one of these:

Oh well back to hunting parts.

[jtrichard]

IF you have a welder you can weld a piece of flat stock on the top of your home made pivot bracket to stiffen-it up ( make sure your bolt spacing is correct when you do )