Single-Piece Driveshaft Questions

[PrimeredThunder]

First off, I have a 72 SWB truck with trailing-arm suspension and I am contemplating converting it to a single-piece rear driveshaft because mine seems to be a bit bent and I am breaking carrier bearings a bit more often than I should How long does the single driveshaft need to be? I have a 12-bolt rearend and turbo350 trans. Also, I should add that I am running airbags, and am planning on notching the frame soon. I appreciate any help with this,
Thanks,

Kenny

[ShamrockCustoms]

http://www.iedls.com/


This company has a great rep for outstanding driveshafts and also has measurements details..Inland Empire Driveline.

[68LSS1]

I agree with Shamrock Customs about Inland Empire being the best drive shaft company in the country. I talked to them about going to a one piece ('68 short step, coil spring rear) and they recommended me not to. I've heard the maximum length that one should be as 5' and 6' (I'm sure plenty will chime in here). They can build one warrantied for 700hp (2 piece for our trucks) and also sell heavy duty carrier bearings. The drive shaft is a slip type on the rear. I'm still going to go one piece though. I am moving the motor as back as far as possible (gonna put that shifter right beside me). Maybe trying the carrier bearing from them will work for you?

[crazy longhorn]

I will tell you the same story! i have checked locally, & online......my longhorn is "stuck" with a 2 pc shaft. There are many shops that will build you a 1 pc shaft in that 6' range C to C on the caps......but most will tell you it will be a problem. I sure wouldnt think the shaft on a short wheel base truck would be any problem tho......if you are in the 4 -5' range, you should be able to rock with a 1 pc shaft , in the 3 1/2-4" dia range. it may take a little trimming on the crossmember, but shouldnt be a problem. Good luck,crazyL

[mcmlxix]

I took a rough measurement today after work. I have a 71 SWB with a small block and th350 trans. It was 61" c to c ... thats still within the limits every one was talking about. There are other posts that talk about this same topic. One member measured the stock drive shaft out of his 86 C10 at 71". Thats a good 10 inches more that what I measured. The only catch is the diameter of the drive shaft and the fact that the 67-72 has limited space due to the center crossmember clearacne where the OE center bearing mounts. I also know there are other members who have one (cant remember who) ..
I am doing a 700r4 conversion and will be going to a one piece then ... I will ask around locally for a drive shaft when I get to that point ...

[ShamrockCustoms]

mcmlxix:

replace ther center x-member with a driveshaft loop xmember.....clearance problem solved, left over bearing problem solved....

[68LSS1]

Originally posted by ShamrockCustoms
mcmlxix:

replace ther center x-member with a driveshaft loop xmember.....clearance problem solved, left over bearing problem solved....

He's got a trailing arm suspension. That is also where the forward arm bracket is mounted to. Please explain.

[mcmlxix]

I got a quote of 295.95 for a one piece drive shaft from Denny's Driveshafts ....

[rodnok1]

take a sawzall to the carrier bearing brackets and put a one piece in, I run denny's shaft and no clearance problems(have trailing arms). if you don't cut the brackets off it will rub when you load the truck down heavy and hit a bump(trust me not a fun noise to hear)

[ShamrockCustoms]

68LSS1: sure, no prob. the new loop x-member will also be the mounting point for the trailing arms. thing is, you can't use just any x-member. it need to be full size to support the trailing arms. the center section of the new x-member will be a loop instead of straight. this will allow extra clearance for the new driveshaft. the loop should be a good 1" OD tube with at least 1/8" thick wall, preferably 3/16" thick. hope this helps!

[68LSS1]

I just don't think I'd trust that for the hp/torque I hope to be seeing. I may end up having to do something like that though.

[Slammed67]

I have a 1-piece shaft in my '67 short bed. I have a 350/700R4 (in the 6-cyl position), with air bags/c-notch and I have no clearance problems.

My truck was originally a long bed with a 1-piece drive shaft (yes, that is how it came from the factory). I had that shaft cut down and balanced for about $60. So if you can find a 1-piece shaft that is longer than what you need, you can have it shortened for less $$$$ than it would cost to have one made from scratch.

[68LSS1]

I'll need the 700hp warranty that Inland puts on their ds along with the 1350 u joints.

[ShamrockCustoms]

this is pretty much what i am talking about. granted, this is a 4link setup, but i think you get the idea......

[terrym1]

I have a long wheel base 68 step when I went to the t-5 five speed I went to the salvage yard and bought a shaft from a 86 long wheel base half ton (had the old coupler taken off the rear and welded it to the new shaft by a pro shop). The reason why I used a 86 shaft is they are larger in diameter (less whip) ie. better for larger amounts of HP. I did not half to cut the cross because the truck is lowered, all I had to worry about is the pitch of the rear diff. I am sure if you are going to a one peice shaft, and doing every thing for the short wheel base the same it should work
hope this helps

[MOTHERTRUCKERS]

Shamrockcustoms any reason for the 45 degree panhard bars over a 90 degree setup? We have been playing with a Watts linkage panhead bar setup with an offset center point on the upper and lower bars.

[ShamrockCustoms]

mothertruckers: well, the photo is just one from a show site. what i can tell you is that the diagonal link is best suited for racing applications because the link does not allow for cornering very well. the end links usually will wear out pretty quick. the panahrd bar is much better for the street. ( i was mainly illustrating the front crossmember setup. )