Power steering too easy

[Lo1dakota]

I know I know, search. And I've seen it before but can't find it.


How you cut back the presssure on power steering? I did the CPP conversion on my 50 (Solid Axle). Uses a Saginaw pump and a truck (not sure model) steering box. After i drove it on the freeway it was a handful being way too easy to turn. How do I alleviate this?

[franken]

Look around for Cherokee box swap. You may be able to just swap the valve the pressure hose screws into, but I don't recall.

[joedoh]

is the saginaw box the GM standard pump? if so, summitracing sells pressure reducers for using the GM pump with a different box/rack.


this one is labeled for use with a rack but it doesnt matter, the principle is the same, fixes the overassist.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/brg-899001

[Lo1dakota]

Originally Posted by joedoh

is the saginaw box the GM standard pump? if so, summitracing sells pressure reducers for using the GM pump with a different box/rack.


this one is labeled for use with a rack but it doesnt matter, the principle is the same, fixes the overassist.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/brg-899001

Yes as far as I know. I ordered the new pump based off what the motor Year and what it was in. 1968 327/Camaro.

[jweb]

You could try this
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Mustan...-GPM,5852.html

Also check your caster, that made the biggest difference when I added power steering. My front suspension is very different though.

[_Ogre]

Originally Posted by jweb

You could try this
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Mustan...-GPM,5852.html

Also check your caster, that made the biggest difference when I added power steering. My front suspension is very different though.

this is what i did

[mr48chev]

What Joedoh suggested is what most of us would do since the truck is already together and running down the road. I don't think you would be able to swap pulleys to get a smaller crank pulley or larger pump pulley to slow the pump down and that may not be enough anyhow.

[dsraven]

the fitting behind the pressure hose comes out and there is a relief valve there.different spring pressure is the key for a lower pressure in the system.

[Lo1dakota]

Thanks all.

[72Mountaineer]

Talk to the people at Borgeson.

[solidaxel]

This was interesting info from Summit!



Info

All KRC power steering pumps provide the racer the ability to fine tune the feel and assist in the power steering system. Interchanging the -6 outlet fitting can alter the steering input the drive has. The more flow your steering system receives the easier it will be to turn the wheels, but will decrease feel. Having less flow will put feel and stability back in the steering system, but decrease assist.

Note: KRC Flow Valve fittings allow for flow from 1.18 GPM to 2.92 GPM. The 1.18 GPM valve has the least flow, which provides the lowest assist with the highest feel to the steering. The 2.92 GPM valve has the highest flow, which provids the highest assist with the lowest feel to the steering.

How To Choose the Right Flow Valve (PDF)

Flow Valve Installation Guide (PDF)

[rapid49]

Now that you have power steering ,more than likely you need to increase the amount of caster . This will calm down the steering and make it want to track straight , stable at speed , and also return to center better .

[yossarian19]

Like others have said, get your caster right. 4-7* should be in the ballpark.
Before I messed with the pump or box, I would:
Get a 13-15" steering wheel on it if you haven't already. Smaller = less leverage. Power steering & smaller steering wheel sizes go together.
and
Put a steering stabilizer on it. Increases drag a little at the steering wheel, also (like you'd think) helps stabilize the steering.

[Port&PolishMan]

Originally Posted by rapid49

Now that you have power steering ,more than likely you need to increase the amount of caster . This will calm down the steering and make it want to track straight , stable at speed , and also return to center better .

Have to Look at that - does 54 - 3800 have Caster ?
Adjusters - well I'll crawl under Truck in Morning to see I Guess ..

I did Notice it looks as if the Rear Axle is a Bit Off as in
Axle Out of Alignment . . and passenger Dual Unit Out tire is wearing
Odd .. ( Swear is looks slightly Dog_ed )

Anyone Know where to Measure to Check ?

( No Wheels Weights ) either - Cheat ***** !

[Clarance J]

Lo1dakota

Here are a few pictures. I went for the power steering conversion and had the same problem. Finally got it corrected by adding a steering stabilizer and the caster shims. I also have the presser reducer but its still in my tool box (I'm just waiting for it install itself,) The stabilizer worked good but the caster shims made a bigger difference.

Earl

[Lo1dakota]

Since I'm still ignorant to suspension and steering can you point me to where I adjust castor?

[rapid49]

Originally Posted by Lo1dakota

Since I'm still ignorant to suspension and steering can you point me to where I adjust castor?

The caster would be the degree of inclination of your spindle. In other words how much your top ball joint is behind your bottom ball joint .( If you look at a motorcycle you can easily see that the front forks have rake or lean to the front . ) These trucks came with very little caster to make them steer with less effort. The more the spindle leans to the rear the more the truck wants to steer straight and the better the wheel returns to center after turning. Too much caster = too much steering effort. This is why u can run more caster with power steering . With the stock straight axle the caster can be increased by using a wedge between the axle and the leaf springs. I would shoot for about 5 degrees. Hope this helps.

[Lo1dakota]

I've got it now I believe. So I'll want to have it tilt towards the rear correct.

[rapid49]

Originally Posted by Lo1dakota

I've got it now I believe. So I'll want to have it tilt towards the rear correct.

the top of your spindle should tilt to the rear. The small end of the wedge will be in the front.

[dsraven]

hey rapid, don't you mean the small end of the wedge would be in the rear, that would put the fat end of the wedge at the front and tilt the axle back at the top giving more caster?

[mr48chev]

Originally Posted by Lo1dakota

Since I'm still ignorant to suspension and steering can you point me to where I adjust castor?

On yours the caster adjusts with a "caster shim between the axle and the spring.
To reiterate on what they said the caster shim or wedge depending on who you talk to is tapered and they come in various degrees of taper.

The issue is that first you have to know what you have now before going out and buying a shim and putting it in. Then you get a shim that has the number of degrees difference to get you where you want to go.

The Old Jeep CJ had 1-3/4 wide springs from the factory so you might find the caster shims at a 4x4 shop that caters to jeeps or you can get them through Napa They use them to adjust pinion angle on lifted rigs.

Unless you have access to a caster/camber gauge you are still most likely going to end up at a front end shop that can deal with an I beam axle without having a brain fart. That usually means going to the shop that caters to bigger trucks and motor homes. Any front end shop should be able to check the caster and tell what you have now along with checking the toe in and camber but usually unless the axle has been tweaked the camber normally doesn't change.

I don't think I would want much over 3 or 4 degrees on that truck though. 7 or 8 works on Transverse leaf Fords pretty well but may be too much for a parallel leaf truck.

I don't think I'd be changing the steering wheel just to increase steering effort. I just can't justify the reasoning behind wanting to do that. Now if you have already been thinking smaller wheel for one reason or another it might be the time to do it. You would have to have a flat spoke wheel as any with a dish to them put the wheel up closer to your chest.

[rapid49]

You can use a simple protractor with a level on it to measure the caster. The amount of caster is relative to how you want the steering to feel . Four or five degrees should be a good starting point . I think these trucks came with about 1.5 degrees caster . This was because any more than that with manual steering took too much effort to turn the wheel. You should be able to add 3 or 4 degrees without worrying . Cheap and easy to do.

[Lo1dakota]

Thanks for all the input !

[Port&PolishMan]

Caster - Shims - COOL . .

[jhnpldng]

or you could take it somewhere and get an actual alignment. There's caster, camber and toe-in and once you've got some caster angle, changing the toe in, changes camber. Likewise, changing caster will change you're toe-in and camber.
With an alignment rack, the tech can see all the angles at once and if he/she's good, can make one change to fix more than one angle/adjustment at a time.
Toe in will also affect they steering feel. If it's not right, the truck will want to go left or right but not straight.
Being that this isn't a stock truck, you'll have to find someone with an open mind to do the alignment. Basically, they're going to have to use alignment specs from a 67 or later model that had power steering. Not something they would do at a big franchise tire store or wallie world.
$50-75 and you'll save that much in tire wear the first year with a good alignment.