Brake Residual Valve Location Help

[NeoJuice]

I think I got a little to excited that I was finally starting to get my brake lines run. I've run into a little problem with plumbing my front brakes.

I did the rear correctly as in the first mbmbrakes picture with a single line run to the back with one 2lb residual valve.

Then I got a little to excited and ran one line to each front wheel to the wilwood combination valve. It's a little more brake line but I figured I would use the two "front out" ports on the wilwood because I didnt have a plug. The origional plan was only to run one line to the front then "tee" off for the passenger side.

I havent plumbed the master cylinder yet to the wilwood so I'm ok there.

Now the question is.....Can I plumb in the 2lb residual valve just off the master cylinder before the wilwood? or does it have to be after as shown in the second mbmbrake image i modified? if so then I will need to go buy another valve and re-cut/flare them in somewhere.

Any help would be appriciated. Pictures are attached.

[NeoJuice]

I'll install the rear 2lb residual valve next to the 't' fitting just above the rear diff on drivers side. Then run the rest of the rear brake line up the frame to the wilwood bottom remaining 'RO' port. Then I'll just to run my two lines from the MC to the wilwood top 'RI" and 'FI' ports.

Any response to post 1 would be great. Thank you.

[Black_Sheep]

I mounted mine right off of the master cylinder, before the "tee" for the front brakes.

[NeoJuice]

Originally Posted by Black_Sheep

I mounted mine right off of the master cylinder, before the "tee" for the front brakes.

Thanks Black_Sheep. After doing a little more thinking about it I guess I answered my own question where to put the front residual valve. I'll install it just off the master cylinder then run line to the wilwood 'FI" proportioning valve port because reading the wilwood manual says.

"Wilwood’s new Combination Proportioning Valve substantially simplifies mounting, plumbing, wiring and brake proportioning adjustments on vehicles with custom brake systems. The combination block maintains full isolation between front and rear fluid circuits and can be used in conjunction with any tandem outlet or dual mount master cylinder assemblies. The rear circuit has a single inlet and single outlet with the adjustable proportioning valve. The front circuit has a single inlet with two outlets. It can be run as a single outlet with one outlet plugged, or used to split the plumbing on its way to the front calipers."

The adjustable valve is only for the rear which I plumbed correctly with the residual valve near the rear brakes. I guess I should have thought this through before starting to freak out LOL.

[dsraven]

I would say the residual valve could be mounted in either position depending on ease of mounting but, if it were me, I would mount a single res valve next to the master cyl.
the other issue you may encounter is the system being a bit difficult to bleed due to the "P" trap that is in the lines near the firewall mounted valve. there is a low spot there that could result in air being trapped. it may be better to run a small spiral of line below the valve which doesn't allow any line to go up-down-then back up. there are also stainless flex lines available that work well in this scenario because they allow some flex due to cab/line movement etc. you could attach/clamp the lines at the frame then run flex hose up to the valve and back.
running dual lines to each front brake is great but really, for the amount of fluid the calipers require, a single line run from the master that is run up to a "T" that goes to each wheel would also work.

[mr48chev]

Outside of ease of access I'm just wondering why one would mount the adjustable proportioning valve up that high on the firewall and run that much extra line for the rear brakes. I've got one for mine but plan to mount it inline behind the master cylinder.
I'm with Dsraven in that that setup looks like a built in brake bleeding issue.

I've fought the Ford brake switch on mine for years replacing it about once a year and am going back to the stock switch under the pedal this go around. Maybe because mine was under the truck or what not but it failed about once a year or every other year.

[OrrieG]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

I'm with Dsraven in that that setup looks like a built in brake bleeding issue.

I agree, I had to re-plumb my lines from the MC to proportioning valve because I turned the loops vertical instead or horizontal. I tried for two weekends to get the things bleed before I realized I could not get the air pockets out of the upper part of the loop. Turned them 90 degrees and was done in half an hour. Under floor is fine, basically you fiddle with at first to get things right then forget about it.

[NeoJuice]

I finished plumbing the brakes this weekend, the MC is bench bled and installed. Just have to bleed the brakes now. Here are some updated pictures.

The two top ports are the 'FI' and 'RI' ports from the Master Cylinder. I hope there is not to much of a curve in those to? I was talking with a friend and he said the two bottom lines for 'FO' might be ok because of the front residual valve. I guess the only thing I can do is try and bleed the lines and see how they feel. If not I'll have to slice the lines over and re-flare them or get some flex lines like dsraven said, or should I just do that anyway for the bottom 'FO' ports and save myself some in-needed hassle?

[NeoJuice]

few more

[wolffcub]

Is your master cylinder actually below the level of the wheel calipers? If not you dont need residual valves.

[_Ogre]

i don't mean to hurt your feelings, but...
not sure why you'd go thru all the trouble to install the mc under floor and then plumb that mess on the firewall
an adjustable proportioning valve will be a one time adjustment, it's not something you need to tweak weekly
i'd change it as you have it drawn behind the mc

[Rickysnickers]

I have a question, are you using copper line for your brake lines, or is that just the light or photograph making the lines look like they are copper?

[NeoJuice]

Originally Posted by Rickysnickers

I have a question, are you using copper line for your brake lines, or is that just the light or photograph making the lines look like they are copper?

Copper Nickle easy bend lines.