Rough ride

[ARCTECH]

New at this so hang in
1969 c10 long bed heavy duty coil rear only on spid
other than that its a stripper with a 307 3 speed on the tree
a true boner truck
bought it in arizona last week
drove ir home to maine after a 2'' coil drop in thr front with new kyb shockes in front
this truck pounds hard over the smallest of bumps
harder then may 70 k10 or my 63 c10 and my 72 suburban
just to name a few of them
any help with this ?
Monroe shocks maybe???
I put new michlelins all the way around!!
Still hard hitting over small bumps

[special-K]

These are great riding trucks and their reputation speaks for that. You lightened up the front spring capacity while retaining the stiffer than standard rears. The added angle lightens up the rear to amplify the situation. Did you want to lower the rear? Thise spring will help x2. These trucks already have about a 2" rake and yours must have 4" or maybe more with the HD springs. Get 2" drop rear coils and you'll still have a rake, but everything down 2". The other thing that plays in are the shocks can be making it ride too tight.Might be stiffer than you'd want, especially with softer springs. Did you put shorter shocks on the front?

[ARCTECH]

Yes the kit came with lower shocks
i was going to to put the 4'' drop coils in the rear but opted to go with 2'' blocks whitch im doing today

[stsalvage]

I like to mention something that has nothing to do with your handling of your truck.If your planing on taking out that 307 and putting in a 350.I think i have a way to save you some money and get a screamer of a engine plus you can keep your truck factory.

In 1966-67 there was a care that had a very Rare motor installed in it.It is the one body that GM did not change over from 1966 to go to the new 1967 body change.It was the Nova.

In 1966 Nova had a very Special motor installed into there car's it was the Large Jernoal 327.

Funny thing is the 307 is a Large jernoal black.Taking a reguler 350 crank and dropping it into a 307 block turns it into a Large jernoal 327 give you wicket RPM'S and horse power

[ARCTECH]

I have thought of that …
but for now i will keep it 307..
The truck only has 70,000 on it.. And it is vary clean
when the motor needs work? Im sure thats what will happen
thanks for your input

[Mike C]

68 and 69 327 were large journal 4” bore motors. They were base motors in Camaro and Nova through late 69 when the 307 supplanted tgec327. At least in Camaro. The 307 and 327 were both 3.25”stroke. The 307 is a small bore motor like a 305. Putting a 350 crank in makes for a 330 something cube striker 307 NOT a 327. Put 307 crank in 350 block is what you are thinking. But 350 makes more sense all the way around from $ and power standpoint. I have a 4 bolt main .030 327 in my Jimmy using a large journal 327 crank and ‘72 4 bolt 350 block. But is build a383 if doing it all again.

Originally Posted by stsalvage

I like to mention something that has nothing to do with your handling of your truck.If your planing on taking out that 307 and putting in a 350.I think i have a way to save you some money and get a screamer of a engine plus you can keep your truck factory.

In 1966-67 there was a care that had a very Rare motor installed in it.It is the one body that GM did not change over from 1966 to go to the new 1967 body change.It was the Nova.

In 1966 Nova had a very Special motor installed into there car's it was the Large Jernoal 327.

Funny thing is the 307 is a Large jernoal black.Taking a reguler 350 crank and dropping it into a 307 block turns it into a Large jernoal 327 give you wicket RPM'S and horse power

[special-K]

Chevelle body stayed the same 66/67. You said GM, so same thing for all A-bodies.

[davepl]

I'd try it without the shocks for a real quick drive to make sure it's the springs that are giving you the shock. Sounds like you need a much lighter spring out back!

In the old days they used charts like this and you would then pick from a supply of 50 different springs:

http://1969pontiac.com/1969%20RPO%20...20Weights.html

...but now we get 2 springs, big block and small block! Which means the people that needed any of the 48 other springs wind up running something "wrong" for their truck.

[demian5]

Make sure you don't have 50 PSI in your tires.
Make sure the top shock mount is tight and not just snug and isnt jarring when you hit bumps.

[ARCTECH]

All great info.. Thanks
tires are aired to 45psi michelins ltx 5psi under..
Rear springs are factory but are hd..
Have not tried the shock disconnect yet... In the middle of an ice storm in maine right now.. As soon as it clears ill try that..
I think ill try all new radiator / cab mount / and hood bushings and rubbers
thanks andrew

[Stocker]

Originally Posted by ARCTECH

All great info.. Thanks
tires are aired to 45psi michelins ltx 5psi under..

45 psi sounds like maybe 5 psi under maximum inflation, but still too high for an unladen half ton truck. That will add some ride harshness.... try dropping to 35 psi, maybe even 32. Keep a close eye on tread wear.

I agree with above posts regarding springs & shocks though..... that probably affects the ride more than tires that may be 10psi or so too high.

[ARCTECH]

What about spring pocket rubbers ?
For the front …
ill order springs for the rear
the front seams to do the pounding
next week when the ice leaves ill install the parts
thanks again

[1968 baby blue C10]

Originally Posted by Stocker

45 psi sounds like maybe 5 psi under maximum inflation, but still too high for an unladen half ton truck. That will add some ride harshness.... try dropping to 35 psi, maybe even 32. Keep a close eye on tread wear.

I agree with above posts regarding springs & shocks though..... that probably affects the ride more than tires that may be 10psi or so too high.

I agree, that is far too much psi in those tires. Although the guy I bought the truck off of had the fronts filled to max and it still rode like a Cadillac on my crappy country road. I have 255/60/15 on the front and 275/60/15 on the rear, I run 35 psi in the front and 32 in the rear. It is more than likely the shocks though, I would say. I am not for certain but I believe mine is a 4 and 5 or 6 drop with cpp components so I assume cpp shocks. It rides better than any of my cars.

[ARCTECH]

This is whats up front
stock upper and lower a arms
stock spindles with drum brakes
2'' drop coils from a outstanding company
kyb excel-g drop shocks
michelins 235 75 15 at 40 psi now
2.25" of clearance to the bump stops

[demian5]

Yes and if they are KYB gas a just shocks, they are a rough ride.

[ARCTECH]

Yes they are kyb shocks
any idea on a better shock??

[Mike C]

Which KYB? I have the GR2 I think on my truck? They ride great. At some point I probably do Bilsteins, but that’s way down the list. The Gas-A-Just are known for a little rougher ride, but hard to believe it’s as you describe.

Are you riding on the bumpstops in the front? Or at least contacting them too soon in the travel? I run my rear tires at 28 psi (275 55 17) and the fronts at 35 (235 55 17) on my truck which is 4 1/2” front 7” rear drop ona DJM flip.

[demian5]

Originally Posted by Mike C

Are you riding on the bumpstops in the front?

Great thing to check.

There has to be something lose or maybe even bound up. We don't know condition of ball joints, cross shafts, tie rod ends, sway bar bushings or any of the other factors that could be at play.

I see they are 'lowered" shocks, are the shocks bottoming out?

I'd still pull them and drive it as was mentioned early in this thread.

[ARCTECH]

All the cross shafts and ball joints seamed fine when i put the springs in…
drove it back from arizona to maine last week …
the smallest of road imperfections!! You can feel alot ..
Ive owned at least 30 c10s over the years big and small/ short and tall.. My k10 rides better for some reson ..

[special-K]

Of all things and without seeing a thing (got pictures), I feel your truck is sporting a decent rake. This puts more weight onto the already much heavier front. Combine that with softer than stock front springs with less travel to the heavier than stock rear springs and this plays about a triple whammy on your ride no doubt, no matter what other issue may need corrected. And if you have heavier that stock duty shocks on the rear you have a quadruple whammy. Actually, all thing combined multiply off each other, so could be more like a sixteenuple whammadoodle

[lolife99]

How about posting some pics of your front suspension?

[Mike C]

I have stock length front shocks on my truck so as others have pointed out, the lowered shocks may be too short.

I actually have stock length front shocks on the back of my truck, too. They were perfect for a leaf-flipped drop and I relocated them a little more vertically by drilling the second hole in the stock upper shock plate.

[ARCTECH]

I put 86 c10 rubbers under the coil springs in front ..
All new mounts under the cab and radiator support …
all new hood rubbers /fender to hood ..
And installed monroe stock size shocks ..
Knocked the tires down to 40psi ..
Much nicer ride now..
Im leaning to the coil rubbers that seamed to take out the most of the hammering on light pot holes …
sway bar install next ..