1955 Ignition Switch

[talmadgemoss]

New to the forum and had a question. Installing a 350 crate motor in my 1955 2nd series truck and wanted to know which ignition switch would work for the new set up? Looks like with the PO wiring job I will be rewiring the truck completely.

[mikebte]

I installed this switch, Removed my tumbler from my 6 Cylinder and installed in this unit.

https://www.classicparts.com/1955-59...ctinfo/53-411/

You could also run the universol if you have no need for the correct style of key.

https://www.classicparts.com/1947-59...ctinfo/53-441/

[talmadgemoss]

Thanks that's what I'll get. I was looking at one about three times the cost at summit.

[MARTINSR]

Of course the stock ignition switch would work too.

Brian

[talmadgemoss]

I was unaware of that? I was under the impression that changing from the foot pedal starter to the new starter that would need to be replaced.

[MARTINSR]

Originally Posted by talmadgemoss

I was unaware of that? I was under the impression that changing from the foot pedal starter to the new starter that would need to be replaced.

You simply put a push button to start it, did it in mine years ago, done deal.

Brian

[OrrieG]

Originally Posted by MARTINSR

Of course the stock ignition switch would work too.Brian

with a push button to replace the foot button. When I converted mine I hid it under the dash to give any thieves a little challenge.

[mikebte]

Originally, I installed a push button on the floor out of a tractor that was electric. Filled the spot on the floor and I had a foot start button. Got tired of it and I now have key switch. I wired my neutral safety switch to a toggle for security measures.

[dsraven]

silly question, unrelated. what kind of front end is that sitting on the floor next to the truck?
if planning an ifs crossmember you really should support the frame at the front where the original cross member was removed. otherwise the frame can flex or move as you work and get things messed up.

[dsraven]

also suggest to keep the trans member in place till the new part is installed, tghen use some sort of support there so the front cab mounts will still have integrity. otherwise door gaps and fender fitment can be affected from frame flex causing the cab to move a bit.
just my thoughts.
body looks to be in great shape, is that how you got it?
rewire is a great idea, then you know what you have.

[talmadgemoss]

Thanks for the advice. That is where I left it for the week. I will be support it before removing the front axle.

The IFS is from checkered racing with double adjustable coil overs and 2'' drop spindles.

Yes it was as it is. I've only had the truck for about 6 weeks' now and it had the 235 and three speed with column sifter. Engine, shifter and clutch all needed attention so I chose the this route. Hoping to get a very highway and street friendly truck. I started a build post also today.

[mr48chev]

I'd think the switch swap or push button might depen a lot on what condition the switch in it now is in. The push button is the simple under 10 buck fix that also acts to keep someone from accidentally starting the truck if the key is in it as when you are working on it in the garage or driveway and there are others including kids around.

On the front crossmember, I am wondering why you would remove that to install an independent crossmember. Most after market crossmembers clear the stock front one with plenty of room. Square tube installed in it's place at the front? Instructions from the front suspension builder? Curiosity has me a bit there.

[talmadgemoss]

Mr48chev To be honest this is my first go round installing an IFS, but I have help from a friend and we are boxing in the frame. He has installed several and owns a shop that does them often. I'm relying mainly on his experience with the IFS.

[talmadgemoss]

Also being we are talking about the IFS I do have another question. Can I run a 15 x 7 wheels with a 4'' back space and clear the disc brakes (11'' rotors)? Also going to running a power rack.

[mr48chev]

Originally Posted by talmadgemoss

Mr48chev To be honest this is my first go round installing an IFS, but I have help from a friend and we are boxing in the frame. He has installed several and owns a shop that does them often. I'm relying mainly on his experience with the IFS.

That works, we just aren't used to seeing someone remove that crossmember without at least putting a temporary brace across the rails to maintain position.

On the wheels I ran 14 x 7 wheels on the front of my 48 with 11 inch Chevelle rotors using a 1/4 inch spacer. You shouldn't have an issue with 15x7 wheels designed for Disk brakes from the get go. You have to watch the back spacing on the rear to keep the tires out away from the sides of the bed and then again if you run wider wheels and tires it is a juggling act to space them right between the bed and fender.

[Black_Sheep]

A few good options here...

http://www.tectran.com/catalog.asp?m...arter_switches

[Russell Ashley]

I saw in your build thread that you had removed the cross member and wondered then why you did that. It shouldn't be a problem as long as you keep it from twisting or warping. I have a Scott's front suspension in my truck and I had to trim a good bit off of the front cross member to get the steering rack in. Justin at Scotts suggested that I remove it entirely but I didn't want to do that so I trimmed it until I had enough clearance. If your friend who is helping you with the upgrade has done these before he is probably aware of the rack clearance problem so decided to remove it. Just be sure that when you weld the new suspension cross member in the frame is straight.

[talmadgemoss]

Thanks Russ yes we talked about it today quite a bit today He does have to do some cutting and has taken all the measurements before he removed it and will leave the trans member in until its installed.

[58SkuzBukit]

Attached it what I used for foot switch after sbc install... from a john deer tractor.

[mikebte]

Originally Posted by 58SkuzBukit

Attached it what I used for foot switch after sbc install... from a john deer tractor.

That is exactly what I used except in a BWD. Fits and hold in with 2 screws. Also, if you ever want to weld over, you disassemble the switch and smash the plate flat with a hammer to weld up.

[58SkuzBukit]

Attached it what I used for foot switch after sbc install... from a john deer tractor.