Steering column

[SwitchbladeII]

I have a 69 and 70 C10. The 69 was a factory three on the tree w/ manual steering and the 70 factory automatic with P/S. I have included pictures of both columns, I will be adding power steering to the 69. My question is the steering column on the 69 correct (top picture)? I have seen many that look like the 70 column. appreciate any and all input.

[LH Lead-Foot]

Top photo is same as mine on 1967 C10 long bed but with w/floor shift. The washer & visible spring preloads the bottom shaft bearing without tilt applications.

Second photo I would believe newer with a slider-in-sleeve for reduced cab to frame transmission of vibration from the intermediate shaft. Only other difference would be 4X4 or not. I have no info on that change if any.

[SwitchbladeII]

Thank you LH Lead-Foot for your reply and information. I have some so many things on this truck which are not correct or have been hacked, I wanted to make sure this wasn't one of the before I proceed to add the power steering. Thanks again!

[LH Lead-Foot]

The floor shift column in my 67 is original as it was pale blue under the dash. As with most vehicles that are 51+ years old, I had everything apart to fix, replace, lube or whatever to make it road worthy. I still have the same column but change the rag joint out and added P/S gear box and works fine. It doesn't have the original steering wheel, but is not a 17", but smaller thank god.

I don't know what you are doing for a P/S gear box, but there is OEM and short turn ratio's out there. Mine is like 4 1/4" from lock to lock. While quick ratio boxes are sold, they are expensive. They do reduce the elbow time during a turn.

If you are adding a saginaw P/S pump, a trick I used was to remove the pressure valve and drill the opening out a little bit. It came to me in the mid 90's as a kit for morning sickness on rack and pinion GM's. The used car manager gave it to me. It has a guide, drill bits and instructions. The high pressure hose attaches to the 1" nut in the pump. Un-screw that nut and the valve is inside it. I slides out and only has one hole in it. It does not increase pressure, only volume. This reduces the force used on the steering wheel on vehicles where there is no problem. It's like the one finger steering.

So gear box choice and ease of rotation force at the wheel. My elbows are shot after 30+ years in the shop & farm. I like the easier turning the trick provides, it does not hurt anything and can be reversed if needed. I know right where it is sitting in the drawer right above my micrometers.

The DOT drives most all changes like the second photo with the slider. Sometimes it is the manufacture of the column that comes up with improvements, but mostly the government.
The double "D"' shaft slides into a double "D" tube, held in place with injected plastic. It provides the ability to collapse if hit from the front. Later models use a wire cage and lower slider with longer travel. When with Delco as an instructor, engineers shown us a DOT book that was 5 inches thick of requirements for models years starting four years into the future. The 12 sections in the rule book drove all department nuts and this is why so many things change on newer vehicles, sold as making customers happy but driving the cost up by thousands.

So, new truck in 1967...Retails new $2,389 Now 2018, same basic truck starts at $44k without ash tray.

[SwitchbladeII]

Thanks for the tip on the valve. I did something similar some years back but it was for a different reason. I built a 1936 Chevy street rod powered with an injected small block chevy. It had a mustang II front suspension with rack and pinion steering. I was running a Saginaw pump the valve I got if I remember correctly was to reduce pressure in the pump, it would of made the steering too responsive with the stock valve. Mustang pumps don't put out the pressure the Saginaws do. I never drove it before making the modification but with it the car handled very well and was stable at any speed and very easy to steer at low speed, even when pulling into a parking spot. I will be running a Saginaw and stock ratio box in the pickup. Like you I know exactly where I put the stock valve (long term memory still good, just don't ask what I had for breakfast) so I may do some experimenting and open the hole a bit. I plan on replacing the rag joint pitman arm and everything else steering related under the truck while I'm at it .

[LH Lead-Foot]

Just use your drill set and find the one that fits the hole in the pressure relief valve. Go one size bigger, that's all you need to make a decent change in volume.

The valves that reduce pressure are the same size fitting, but smaller bore pressure valve.

I will licking my wounds after climbing & cutting down two 75 ft. trees, but can get the kit out to find proper sizes. It helps at idle when parking with less effort...for sure.

I should not be doing the tree thing with 4 lumbar fusions & bad elbows, but one of two Rx is like super power for 40 minutes. Lowest of four major end of life drugs that is super strong. It sucks not to have my old paycheck.

Have a safe "Labor Day" weekend, or what's left of it.
Regards,
LH LEAD-Foot
Omaha, NE.