rebuilt steering columns

[rws1012]

I have been on the search site looking for a rebuilt tilt column for my 1966 truck. Most of the post are fairly old and I was wondering if there are any members still rebuilding and selling these columns? Don't really want to spend $600 - $900 plus shipping on a column. This will be a driver not a show truck. Thanks for all replies.

[luvbowties]

You got objections to factory columns like 71-74 that are practically bolt ins? If not, do a search on here.
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[Clyde65]

I got a 71/72 c10 tilt in my 65.

The tilts from 63-70 big cars will work as well ( might be off on the years)

CPP sells a Chinese look alike, Kev’s Classics( I thinks that’s right) will rebuild a used one for you if you find one.

[rws1012]

I have no objections to a good used column. I checked with Kev on his. Since I don't have a core it will be higher than I want to invest. Won't use Chinese made stuff because of safety concerns and longevity. Will try to find a 70- 72 column as suggested. Trying to be in $350 to $500 range. Will keep doing searches. Thanks again.

[61K10]

summit sells one for around $200. I think most of the safety problems were from the first years that they were made over-seas. Thats been years ago. Ididit has one around $400 also.

[Clyde65]

https://nacogdoches.craigslist.org/p...682510608.html

Has a tilt 67-72

[Macdaddy1]

Got mine on steal bay out of a 71 blazer for $275

[rws1012]

Don't these 70's steering columns have the key on the column? Would like to keep my ignition switch on the dash. Sounds like I am being picky. LOL!! Thanks for all your help.

[Macdaddy1]

Nope the steering columns do not have keys in them so they look stock and you can use the in dash key.

[Captainfab]

Full size early vans ('70-'76?) and '80's and '90's motorhomes are also sources for tilt columns without the ignition in the column. However these will likely have a column shift for the trans.

[rws1012]

Thanks for the info. I do want the shift on the column. Hopefully they won"t be too worn out. Will be putting an auto trans in this truck, with the original 250 6 cylinder. Also will change out front crossmember for disc brakes. Still thinking on just changing control arms and parts associated with the 79 crossmember I purchased. Will I have to drill any thing if I just change the parts instead of the whole crossmember?

[Clyde65]

Go ahead and change the control arm shafts! The old ones are not rebuildable and are very light duty compared with the 73 up 1/2 ton.

[Captainfab]

I always recommend upgrading to the later model lower control arm u-bolts. The holes in the crossmember will need to be drilled out to accommodate those.

[The Rocknrod]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

I always recommend upgrading to the later model lower control arm u-bolts. The holes in the crossmember will need to be drilled out to accommodate those.

I did, probably on your suggestion. I purchased a set from POL. Orielly's had a set I bought but they were too big around. The POL ones were correct, next size up. Since I had the cross member out at the time (pre powder-coat) it was easy.

[rws1012]

Thanks for the replies about the crossmember. Was working on my 79 donor today. I noticed that the arm ( don't know what it s called LOL!!) on the passenger side that bolts to the frame is at a different angle than it is on the 1966 frame. Hooks to steering linkage and tie rod. Does it get re- drilled and re- posistioned also? I think Captainfab said to leave the crossmember and just change all other parts. Would save a lot of work. Thanks again.

[Captainfab]

If you plan of completely rebuilding the front suspension and steering, then keeping your original crossmember and changing all the other components would make sense. Id going that route, you will need the aftermarket aluminum tie rod adapter sleeves. They are $50-60, depending on where you buy them. If your engine is out and you just want to make a quick conversion and worry about rebuilding as parts wear out, then change the entire suspension, crossmember and all, including the steering linkage. If you use the later model steering linkage, yes you will need to drill holes to mount the later model idler arm once you determine the correct location. This is easiest once the new steering box is mounted in the correct location. My power steering adapter plate will accomplish that for you.