47-55.1 Purchased an IFS system

[Melnickta]

I just bought a Southern Rod IFS system for the truck (with the power rack option). I'm a bit nervous about having such major surgery done on the ol' girl. I don't have the technical know-how to do it, so I'm having a shop do it and (I think it's their first time). They quoted me $1500, which sounds better than the $4k the local hot rod shop estimated for labor alone. Anyone been through this before?

[MiraclePieCo]

I don't pay shops to do work because I'm perfectly capable of screwing it up all by myself ;-)

Are you having the shop remove and reinstall the engine, front sheet metal, etc? If so, that sounds like a good price. No doubt the SR IFS comes with complete instructions so it should be easy for a competent mechanic. Does the shop have a good reputation?

[dsraven]

ensure to pick your tire size diameter and the rake angle you like before going to the shop so you get the right stance and the shop can get the angles right before welding it in place.

[dsraven]

just in case, they will likely need to do something with the steering column as well because it is part of the original steering box. some cut it of and shorten the outer tube and install a bearing at the bottom,leaving some of the original shaft sticking out to accept an aftermarket steering column ujoint. that way you can keep the stock looking steering wheel, signal switch, shifter etc. otherwise there are a few loose ends you will need to deal with when they get the ifs in. you may end up trailering it home if you planned to do that stuff yourself. keep the old stuff to sell later? somebody you know wants it? the shop will keep it as part of the package?
not sure what you have for a truck or how custom,if at all, it is. a few pics or a description of what you have would be great.
what is the shop hourly rate? trying to get a handle on how many hours they figure it will take them. reputation? proper tools?

[Melnickta]

It's pretty bone stock except for the SBC and auto trans. Want to keep the steering column as is and use a u-joint to connect up to the steering on the IFS.

I'm fine doing minor things, but for anything that involves my safety, I want a professional doing it. They have been in business for a while and have a good reputation. This seems like an insurmountable task of pulling the engine, front clip, ect and then doing the "surgery" on the suspension.

The truck has a single reservoir brake cylinder, so likely need to upgrade that to a dual.

[MiraclePieCo]

Originally Posted by Melnickta

I'm fine doing minor things, but for anything that involves my safety, I want a professional doing it.

Ha ha, I'm the opposite: anything that involves my safety, I want to do MYSELF.

[dsraven]

why not dissassemble it yourself to save some money but also save broken off bolts, burnt paint, scratched parts etc. the dissassembly of the stuff can cost extra time because they will use impact tools on old rusty bolts so stuff is bond to break or strip out. they won't have the time to spend massaging siezed parts so stuff will just get busted and then extra time charged for the small repairs. this can add up. otherwise where a welded on body nut may normally be there may be a burn mark from the heat applied to loosen the siezed part and then when the bolt breaks off the nut will be drilled out and tapped or else simple cut off and a regular nut put on the back side instead. dissessemble it, then clean the frame etc, trailer or tow it over,have them do the ifs work, then assemble it yourself. then you will have time to clean/paint the engine/trans/frame, flush the rad, do some wiring etc as required. put tape on all the close body edges that may touch upon dissassembly or assembly so if they bump there is less possible damages. have them do the ifs and then you can do the rest yourself and get it like you want it. it is man hours to take it all apart and sitting in their shop is more likelyhood of getting the painted parts scuffed or nicked.
ensure you ask exactly what will be done for the $1500 before they start. if it is their first one they may not know that the steering column,brakes, etc will be affected and need to be modified. you don't wanna find out 1/2 way through that the price will double due to unforeseen items like shortening a steering column. these are time consuming things if it is their first time around and if done by the hour.....
also,ask for ALL the old parts back. you may be able to recoup some costs selling the old stuff but also you may need something from the pile of take-offs. never get rid of anything until the new stuff is completely done and proven to work.

[mr48chev]

We all have our skill levels and limitations as far as what we can or can't do on our trucks. I'm not going to fault anyone for choosing to pay to have something done that they don't feel they have the skills to do.

That said if they are going to unbolt the nose, pull the engine and trans, pull the stock suspension, modify the column, install the crossmember kit and get it to point it can go on the alignment rack, set up the motor mounts and install the engine and trans back in and then bolt the nose back on 1500 is pretty cheap for labor.

I'm assuming that you bought the Part No.: 105CTK-SO kit with your choice of options.

Their instruction sheet is pretty straight forward https://www.southernrods.com/instruc...hub-to-hub.pdf Pretty much the same instructions that a few others have with slight changes.

I would not have them deviate from those instructions and follow off the wall suggestons to. I know guys think they have to jack and screw with them to get "their ideal" caster but that is unnecessary 90% of the time.

[mr48chev]

One thing I would suggest even if you are having the shop do all of the work. Clean up the whole engine compartment and front of the chassis as much as you can getting any grease, oil and dirt off it so the shop has a clean engine compartment and chassis to work with. That might take a pocket full of quarter at the car wash and some Gunk or Oil Eater to spray on it but it will be very much appreciated by the guys working on it.

Take them a truck that is clean top to bottom and in an out an it helps get the job done better.

[_Ogre]

Ifs means new mc, brake lines and steering. If you want the look, the back end needs to be lowered. Be sure to include this
Mark the centerline of the axle and move ifs centerline forward 1.25"
I'd remove the front sheet metal before taking it to the shop

[Dan in Pasadena]

20-20 hindsight I'd do it myself. R&R'ing the "dog house" on these trucks is about as simple as it gets. Just ordinary nuts and bolts.

Disconnect the front lights. Drain/disconnect upper & lower radiator hoses. Unbolt the rest. Ziplok bag the bolts of each area and write location on the outside.

Take pictures every step of the way if you feel insecure and count/write down the number and placement of body shims as you do it.

A shop will NEVER do the small things you will do. A wire wheel on a bench grinder will do wonders with cleaning off years of rust from shims & bolts. Once it's all apart you can hire a certified welder to come in and finalize the install. If a shop hasn't done it before you don't know if they'll partially re-assemble it to make sure the axle centerline is re-centered. And they DO typically have to be moved....forward from 1" to 2"